A/C not working

[rdm21740]

Ok cool thanks. I never noticed that in my workshop manual. I’ll have to go back and look at it. Thanks


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[rdm21740]

Denisefwd93 or 55trucker,

You both seem very knowledgeable so I have a question that’s a little off topic.

I have a 2005 ford freestyle that I’m having ac issues with. I’m going to have to replace the compressor on it. Due to it locking up and going out. My question is, if the a/c lines and hoses have no visible damage, have been properly flushed, and can hold a vacuum, is there any reason to actually replace them?

I am aware that I have to replace the expansion valve, compressor, drier/accumulator, and condenser. I’m just curious if there’s any real reason to replace the lines if they’re still serviceable.


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[Denisefwd93]

the lines will often start to leak after they've been moved / flexed. I wasn't going to replace the lines on my truck but they are the cheapest part!

I don't care what everybody thinks or what everybody else says, and this is my strong opinion based on many years in the trade, vacuum doesn't always indicate leaks.

if your Ford has the poppet Schrader valve on the high side, it's almost for sure going to leak at some point. the plastic cap almost never stops the leak for very long because the heat of compression makes the plastic cap soft.

A grossly overcharged system will make a compressor act like it's locked up, try to turn, stop try to turn and stop, same thing if low on oil & bearings are starting to seize up,

 

[55trucker]

134a hoses incorporate an internal barrier that prevents moisture seepage thru them, some manufacturers make use of a Poly-amide barrier & others may use a PTFE teflon barrier (depends on the manufacturers construction preference). This is something that the old R-12 systems did not have. That barrier is flexible, so if one were to *flex* the hose the barrier would not give way.

As Denise stated the system has to be fully charged to be able to detect a leak, 30 in. vacuum will not detect a *minor* leak that 90lbs. pressure will.

If I were in your shoes I wouldn't worry too much about the hoses, I recently replaced all of the original O-rings in the system of my 98 Ranger (the system was losing approx 25% of the charge over a 36mth period) & that involved shifting them about, now that it is done we'll see what happens over the next 3 years.

 

[rdm21740]

Before my compressor went out it held a charge. There were no leaks either under pressure or when a deep vacuum was pulled. The compressor just happened to be a bad part. The internal bearing on it failed. All of my lines and hoses physically look fine. No issues. They’re flushed and clean. And like I said the system had no issue with leaks. So I was thinking when I replace the compressor, there’s no need to replace the lines. I just wanted to get others opinions and thoughts


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[Denisefwd93]

The tried-and-true standard for larger systems leak finding was always to use nitrogen (inert gas) with a two stage regulator and a trace of refrigerant for the sniffer. I still have all that from when I had employees but the stuff is now old as far as equipment goes. The trouble with a two-stage regulator and high-pressure gas like nitrogen is it's very easy to blow hoses apart joints even seals on compressors. We'd Never go over 200 lb on an automotive system. Fortunately for the maniac there is a pressure release around 400 pounds on the compressor.

 

[55trucker]

It would be an acceptable idea to start your own thread on the matter,

this is another members thread & we are for all intent & purposes *hijacking* it.

 

[Denisefwd93]

It's okay to hijack my thread lol. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?u...share_tid=176959&share_fid=28487&share_type=t

 

[AntTim04]

after replacing the accumulator and orfice tube it still didn't blow cold air. took it to the shop and the high pressure port was leaking fixed that... now it blows cold air but still have that fluctuation in rpms from 800-1200 when the clutch engages.. could it be just a clog?? if so how do I findit?

 

[Denisefwd93]

Welcome back, Sounds okay to me What is the outdoor temperature?
Are you complaining or wondering why the clutch cycles the compressor on and off? does it only happen when the air conditioning is on, or does the RPM fluctuate whether the air conditioning is on or not? On a 2.3 the AC probably bogs it down pretty good.

after replacing the accumulator and orfice tube it still didn't blow cold air. took it to the shop and the high pressure port was leaking fixed that... now it blows cold air but still have that fluctuation in rpms from 800-1200 when the clutch engages.. could it be just a clog?? if so how do I findit?

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

after replacing the accumulator and orfice tube it still didn't blow cold air. took it to the shop and the high pressure port was leaking fixed that... now it blows cold air but still have that fluctuation in rpms from 800-1200 when the clutch engages.. could it be just a clog?? if so how do I findit?

I always thought that the A/C clutch (and therefore the compressor) kicking on made the RPMs drop too, especially since it makes a small engine bog down power-wise when you put it under load. But I’ve recently realized through tons of fruitless testing on my own vehicles (neither of which have working A/C at the moment) that when the clutch engages, the RPMs actually jump up, in order to compensate for the extra load that it puts on the engine. This will happen even in winter if you have the defrosters on, as that position apparently tells the system to “dry” the air before it enters the cabin so that it doesn’t fog up your windshield. I don’t recall exactly how much it jumps, but I don’t think it was quite the 400 RPM difference you describe (I want to say that it was maybe 200-300, but it could have been more). So this may be what the truck is supposed to be doing. Worth checking out.

By the way, I recently found out that you can obtain those gauges through Autozone as a “rental” (you put a refundable deposit on them and they’re yours to use for free - just make sure you return them within the time limit, which is something like 90 days).

I’d love to ask folks here if, based on the tests I ran on one of my vehicles with the correct gauges, etc, they agree that my pump is likely dead. But out of respect, I’ll start my own thread and hope that some of the knowlegeable individuals who chimed in here will maybe find their way to mine as well. Good luck, friend.

 

[Denisefwd93]

A good electronic control system would up the RPMs when the AC is on in most vehicles but again it's not my area I just try to help on things that I do know about,

if there is no refrigerant in your system just take the manifold off the back in a compressor put your fingers over the holes and rotate the shaft you should feel pressure discharge and intake faster you turn it your fingers will tell you allot,. idon't do it with the engine running by-passing the clutch.
It's pretty hard to help the OP, gives no answers very little information.

A good compressor even without refrigerant can pull a vacuum (negative pressure) on the low side