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A/C not working


AntTim04

Member
Joined
May 17, 2016
Messages
20
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
I have a 96 ranger 2.3l xlt. Air blows out fine in AC or max AC, just not cold air at all. Thinking that the system just needed to be recharged, when I started to recharge it my rpms started to fluctuate to about 1400 then drop down to 900. it only did this when the ac clutch engaged and disengaged. I was told that my compressor was locked up. I replaced it with a new compressor and new clutch. I charged the system up again and still the same result. At a stand still any ideas where to go to next?
 
Need way more information. You probably did not need a compressor.

when the vehicle is sitting still and it is not real hot outside it will cycle on and off the low pressure switch.

What was the outdoor temperature?

Did you use a vacuum pump to get air out of the system?

How much refrigerant did you use?

What pressure was showing on the low side gauge? (blue)

Do you replace the orifice?
 
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What are your pressures?
 
I have a 96 ranger 2.3l xlt. Air blows out fine in AC or max AC, just not cold air at all. Thinking that the system just needed to be recharged, when I started to recharge it my rpms started to fluctuate to about 1400 then drop down to 900. it only did this when the ac clutch engaged and disengaged. I was told that my compressor was locked up. I replaced it with a new compressor and new clutch. I charged the system up again and still the same result. At a stand still any ideas where to go to next?


Yes listen to adsm and Denise
 
when I started to recharge it my rpms started to fluctuate to about 1400 then drop down to 900

I replaced it with a new compressor and new clutch

I charged the system up again and still the same result. At a stand still any ideas where to go to next?

what sort of equipment did you make use of to do the discharge, the evac & the recharge of the system after installing the new compressor?

when you replaced the compressor did you measure the needed oil from the old compressor to pour fresh oil into the new compressor? .......& also install a fresh receiver/dryer (add 1 oz. oil to it) & clean out or replace the orifice tube?

One does not test the system at idle, one does the a/c test at approx 1500 rpm, I posted the complete procedure in another thread where another member was having issues with his system.
 
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55trucker you should post the link to the other thread with your procedures


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Thx for doing that Bill,

I seem to have a issue with *quoting* posts & copying (linking) to others. Not sure what the problem is, it's random & a nuisance.
 
Just look on the site front page "how to tech". I only have about 50 years around the HVAC business I know a few things. And I try to help. but I'm the first to say I don't like working on automotive air conditioning systems.

The big problem is the people trying to fix these things, they don't have the tools or the experience and when they ask for help they don't provide any information! http://www.therangerstation.com/how...surrecting-your-ford-ranger-air-conditioning/
55trucker you should post the link to the other thread with your procedures


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The big problem is the people trying to fix these things, they don't have the tools or the experience and when they ask for help they don't provide any information! http://www.therangerstation.com/how...surrecting-your-ford-ranger-air-conditioning/

I blame all the auto parts stores who sell those DIY recharge cans kits that give people the false idea that they are all you need to do A/C repair. :nono: I've even seen employees hand customers these things and say "just screw it on and squirt it until the needle on the guage is in the blue section". :annoyed:
 
I blame all the auto parts stores who sell those DIY recharge cans kits that give people the false idea that they are all you need to do A/C repair. :nono: I've even seen employees hand customers these things and say "just screw it on and squirt it until the needle on the guage is in the blue section". :annoyed:


This.

If your compressor locked up, you would have known it right away as soon as the clutch engaged. it would at the very least caused the belt to squeal as it tried to turn the pulley, and possibly break or cause the belt to come off.

Also, as mentioned above, you need to replace the orifice tube and accumulator/ dryer with the compressor and FLUSH THE LINES and evaporator/ condenser. In fact, it might even be to your advantage to just replace the evap core and condenser. I spent close to 100 bucks on equipment and flush solvent for flushing my existing evap/ sand condenser, and now I found that one of them has a leak... :( Also most compressor companies will not even honor their warranty if you can't prove that you replaced those items and flush the system and put a filter on the return line into the compressor. Remember, when the compressor does go, it sheds all sorts of metal and plastic parts that will destroy the new compressor if they are not flushed out.

Denise posted the link to my how to on getting your a/c up and going if you are still needing it fixed. it has some troubleshooting tips as well. At the very least, you will want to get a manifold gauge set (Harbor Freight has one for 50 bucks) and borrow a vacuum pump.

Regards,

AJ
 
55trucker, what workshop manual did those photos come from. I love reading and learning. I would love to get that workshop book and read it.


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Denisefwd93,

Do you have experience with fords scroll compressor that was used on a few vehicles such as the 500, the freestyle, and others?


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Denisefwd93,

Do you have experience with fords scroll compressor that was used on a few vehicles such as the 500, the freestyle, and others?


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http://www.sanden.com/scrollcompressors.html
They use much less horsepower!
They've been in the residential and Commercial market for many many years it only stands to reason they would be on Automotive at some point. I really avoid auto air conditioning unless it's my own vehicle.
 
55trucker, what workshop manual did those photos come from. I love reading and learning. I would love to get that workshop book and read it.


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They came from my OEM cd for that year of Ford trucks.
 

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