A/c newbie 2003 Mazda b4000

[snake]

I'd check for continuity first because its simple, if it has two pins on the same connector one is likely ground. Last one I checked was a honda and it had only one pin which was hot. If there's two pins, see if it's open or closed. If it has only one pin, it is still grounded on the other side, there just isn't a ground pin in the connector. And BTW, when we say the "clutch" is gone, it is actually the clutch coil behind that center spinny plate that goes bad- It is a big coil back there that when volt-charged, creates a huge magnetic pull and it locks the clutch onto the compressor. That's why the gap is important, too far away and it can't lock in. After the clutch plate is removed, you simply unbolt the coil and replace it. Sometimes they get hot and the wax will melt out of the coil and it will make a really cool mess lol. If you have continuity, coil is good. Check for 12V at the compressor connection, which I'm betting you have no power if clutch coil checked out. Then hotwire 12v to the compressor with a ground on the other side. The ground should be black or green I'm guessing. I don't think you can blow it up if you get it backwards as long as you use a FUSED hotwire, 20 amp should do it. This will tell you if the problem is the compressor or if it just isn't getting power from the truck, the second being more likely. Also- when you jumped the low press switch on the accumulator, you did jump the wire connector, not the switch, right? Just making sure, when that switch goes tits up or the press is actually low, it just goes open- so jumping the connector together off the accumulator by-passes it. 12v runs through that connector and it should stay closed when it is working properly. Even if the press is low it should start cycling the compressor if the switch is good and the press is too low...

 

[Paka]

Hey Snake , I did jump the low side connector , not the switch. Jus woke up , I'll drink a cup of coffee b4 I read your post again

 

[snake]

If the connector on the compressor has two pins it will need a ground as you stated. Run another jumper from where the the black or green connected to the compressor (no clue, not looking at it myself- but most of the time ground would be green or black) to ground, then the hotwire to where the other color was. Use a FUSED jumper and you won't have to worry about blowing it up if you get it wrong. I have a shop manual for an '02 ranger, probably the same, but no time to look it up right now.

Edit- I think I was replying to an earlier post on page one- lots of duplicate info on here. Disregard if not useful

 

[Paka]

Got me a multimeter n will start testing as soon as I get a chance

 

[Paka]

Hooked up multimeter with car off and found that both ports on compressor have continuity, also port on low pressure shows continuity. I'm gonna hot wire compressor now

 

[Paka]

Good news , I made a really nice set of jumper wires. Bad news tried jumping ac compressor and no click , the nut in the middle did not spin , as we say here in Hawaii , bummaz cuz . I ground wire on terminal that black wire went to and positive hoteewire to terminal where grey wire went. I even turned truck on and nothing . Is that pretty much it , bad compressor clutch?

 

[snake]

That's odd. Continuity shows the clutch coil is good so it should have locked in when hotwired. With fan running, a/c on, see if you have 12v at the compressor connector. If you do, bad clutch. if not, something up the line in the truck.

 

[Paka]

Hey Snake , should I try reversing my wires to comp. clutch to see if anything else happens, ford wouldn't mark there poss. With a black wire would they? I will try to check for 12 v as soon as I can. Thanks for all yourhelp

 

[Paka]

Well this is boggling , elec. connectors to low ,and high pressure ports get power . The elec. connector going to compressor has no power when system is on. So I would figure that's the problem , but when I hot wired compressor why didn't it turn on ???

 

[Paka]

Just check cab fuse and it fine and fuse port shows power when truck keys on

 

[Paka]

Interesting, fuse in #25 spot under hood burnt , replaced w/15 fuse and no did fence. There is no power coming out of that port at all , unlike the one next to it that at least moves the needle on tester. Am I looking at a short somewhere and a compressor issue??:

 

[snake]

I was wondering about that myself, if you hook the clutch up backward during the hotwire if it would lock the clutch in or not. Try reversing it, worse thing that can happen is you blow the fuse on the hotwire, big deal... Is that #25 an A/C fuse? Look underneath that power box where the wires come in from the bottom- I've seen some rare instances where the wire connector in the box has a bad crimp to the wire- shows up more on fuel pump issues, but could be happening here as well. If you have 12V at those hi and low switches, power is being interrupted somewhere. I wonder about that WOT switch... don't even know where the hell it is. If I get some time I will look at my electrical book and see where that 12V goes after the low and high switches to see where it night be losing connection. Things kinda hectic around here right now.

 

[Paka]

#25 is an ac fuse.I will do all u have mentioned. Having a really hectic time here myself . I hope you can get to my island( kaua" I) one day , I give you a VIP pass from ocean to mountains , we call it mauka to makai

 

[Paka]

Well , reversing Hotwire didn't change a thing. I'll check my manual for WOT sensor now. Thanks again , Paka

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Maybe the clutch is froze where it dont pull in with the magnet try tapping on it with a crescent wrench or hammer when you apply power to the coil. Or just take the clutch off and clean up the rust and put a little oil on it.