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A/C Exploded!


I almost bought a new compressor but I just had to try the original. My biggest fear is that the compressor will seize and smoke the belt and then I would be stranded. Still think I'll buy a compressor by-pass pulley, just in case. I always carried a by-pass pulley and a spare alternator in my chevy work truck and they saved me on several different occasions.
 
I almost bought a new compressor but I just had to try the original. My biggest fear is that the compressor will seize and smoke the belt and then I would be stranded. Still think I'll buy a compressor by-pass pulley, just in case. I always carried a by-pass pulley and a spare alternator in my chevy work truck and they saved me on several different occasions.

I have a bypass pulley in storage. My truck came with a pile of old parts from a engine swap (power steering pump, fuel rail, sensors, etc.) and one of the items was a bypass pulley which makes me think the compressor came from the old motor.

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I found a UAC suction/return line for $45 on ebay... I'll try that. The line that quit on me is also a UAC (the issue is I botched the install, not necessarily bad parts), and $45 beats $130 for a new compressor (or $60ish for a used one). I would have gone for GPD but they cost like double the price.

If I get it in time, maybe I won't need to replace the receiver drier? Or should I ebay yet another one of those just to be safe?
 
I think I would just pull a good vacuum on the system like you've been doing. Amazon had everything I needed but would not ship the line that had the orifice tube built in to it. AutoZone would mail it though. Anyhoo... success will come, eventually.
 
I think I would just pull a good vacuum on the system like you've been doing. Amazon had everything I needed but would not ship the line that had the orifice tube built in to it. AutoZone would mail it though. Anyhoo... success will come, eventually.

I sure hope so. Ugh.
 
Chin up! You have a great work ethic. As many times as you've pulled that system apart... I probably would have given up and taken a sledge hammer to it.
 
AC line came in. Went ahead installed it. Didn't want to go in straight but this time I was careful to look before I torqued and nailed it this time. Held vaccum for 30-45 mins, and that was after rotating the compressor a few times during the test. Charged up OK, so that's good. No bad compressor noises or indications of compressor trouble. Time will tell I guess...

BTW, here's what the busted manifold looks like:

307suu8.jpg


I missed half the Burr. Even if I had seen the burr and filed it all, I doubt it would have worked.
 
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You sure have had problems with connections! that is a mess! good you got it fixed!
 
Hooray! Hope it holds.
 
Already leaked out... :dunno::annoyed:

My guess is either the new shaft seal (my compressor's shaft had a worn groove where the seal rides) or maybe the schrader valve on the new line. That fast of a leak would have shown on the vacuum test.

So next season or when I find a deal, I'm putting in a new compressor. The old seal was pretty chewed up (and there was evidence of a leak), so I'm wondering if the groove ripped the new seal.
 
Jeeze-O-Pete! What a battle! Shoot it!
 
Now you know why vac is a poor way to check for leaks. Get a spray bottle, mix liquid dawn and water just thin it enough to go through the sprayer and check for bubbles by spraying all the connections, just pressurize, with 134, no need to fully charge the system.
 
Thanks Denisefwd93 I've never even thought to use soap & water to check for leaks on an a/c unit. Used that technique for years looking for propane leaks. I think I've lost my mind!
 
Now you know why vac is a poor way to check for leaks. Get a spray bottle, mix liquid dawn and water just thin it enough to go through the sprayer and check for bubbles by spraying all the connections, just pressurize, with 134, no need to fully charge the system.

Except such a large leak would have shown up on the vacuum test. I may try spraying it tomorrow though. I'm out of town and didn't bring my AC tools (minus the sniffer, which may be in the back).

My suspicion is either the high side service port has an issue or the wear on the compressor shaft tore the seal after I ran the compressor for the first time since the rebuild. The spray test ought to rule out the service port, so I'll go from there.
 
Supply houses sell the stuff in bottles called leak detector. it's just hi visc soap bubbles. Still the best way to find leaks. but you have to be patient and be sure the soap is all over the joint or fitting. can be very tiny bubbles even foam like on small leaks.
 
Supply houses sell the stuff in bottles called leak detector. it's just hi visc soap bubbles. Still the best way to find leaks. but you have to be patient and be sure the soap is all over the joint or fitting. can be very tiny bubbles even foam like on small leaks.

Noted. Didn't find anything with my sniffer (although I'm not 100% sure it's actually working correctly). Would have soap tested this morning but got busy fixing some radius arm bushing issues.
 

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