• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

'97 XLT 4x4 125k miles


Thanks that makes sense. Might want to take it out sometimes because in effect you have a super short bed but most of the time that's ok for me.

I can see if the electric hubs either refused to engage or disengage either (esp the last) would be a big problem. I think. Unless axles would just spin like I suggested in previous post. But if you were way off road and couldn't engage them you might well be stuck there.

What happens if you are 4x4 way up some dirt road and the truck breaks? I guess then you are paying a fortune to have it hauled out? That would the nightmare scenario.
 
I was thinking of things to complain about... there's no door sticker that tells you tires etc. I would say this is because in '05 it had a 'minor' accident so probably when they repainted they took off the sticker, at any rate, it's gone.
This raises the question how do I find out what was on that sticker? I'm not so worried about tires, there is a variety that would work, of course if I went to a non-AT tire they would be cheaper but it'd probably quite a bit less effective as a 4x4. I would like to know towing capacity, I'm going to guess it's around 5800.
And I'd like to get that sticker, it has that cool stuff like the date of mfgr. If I had the right info, I could print a facsimile.
How do I find out the final drive ratio?
There has to be ways to find all this stuff absent the sticker. But I would like to have one in there. I don't suppose there's a chance in h*ll that Ford would reprint me one. Or reprint the original invoice, because that probably has all the info, but I don't imagine they keep copies of them.
 
Make them an offer, if they come back with a higher number in reasonable territory, tell them that you'll take it if they include a new set of tires.

Door may have been replaced. Hard to say. In '05, a door replacement probably wouldn't have totaled the truck so they considered it "minor."

I am sure you can get the door tag info with the VIN number... a Marti report would probably get you most or all of what you need.
 
Thanks that makes sense. Might want to take it out sometimes because in effect you have a super short bed but most of the time that's ok for me.

I can see if the electric hubs either refused to engage or disengage either (esp the last) would be a big problem. I think. Unless axles would just spin like I suggested in previous post. But if you were way off road and couldn't engage them you might well be stuck there.

What happens if you are 4x4 way up some dirt road and the truck breaks? I guess then you are paying a fortune to have it hauled out? That would the nightmare scenario.

Actually the hubs aren't electric, the Transfer Case switch is. The manual case switches using a seperate shift lever, the electric uses a button on the dash to move a so
DSCF8742.JPG
lenoid sized switch on the transfer case, simply off>4xH>4xL

The simple movement of the forward drive shaft is what actually engages the electric shift ( I should say the electric shift "whatchamacallit" :D ) Fact is I'm rather lost to describe this very well myself atm, because if your front axle is completely off the ground and on stands, you can turn the front drive axle forward of the transfer case, turn it in either direction, having pushed no buttons or anything, and FWD begins locking in
 
Last edited:
Dealer should be able to get a new door sticker, they are available because sometimes they get destroyed.

Auto front hubs have a nasty tendency to not work right when you need them the most. They’re not electric, just a sort of spring loaded gear crap. Easy to change over to manual which are far more reliable. Down side to manual hubs is you have to get out to lock or unlock them. Usually unless I’m doing highway driving or something, once the snow starts coming regularly I lock the hubs in and leave them like that all winter. Lose a little fuel economy turning the front all the time but then when I’m losing traction I can just hit the button or pull the lever for the transfer case and don’t have to stop and get out. You can also engage the 4x4 without locking manual hubs, I’ll do it when I want low range but don’t need the front axle, like moving a trailer around in tight quarters. I don’t need 4x4 but just about having to give it gas to move anywhere and moving easily at the speed of a snail is handy.

You do have to be stopped to get into 4-low, with an auto transmission you have to be stopped and the transmission in neutral, not park. Same to get out of 4-low. 4x4 high and 4x2 high (2wd) can be switched pretty much anytime, driving or not. Think they recommend 45 mph or less for switching.
 
You have to back up 10 ft in a straight line after you disengage 4x4 to release the front hubs. That's what my owner manual says.

What's the recommended hub to change out to manual hubs?

Do I need shift kit for auto trans and why?

I asked dealer to get door jamb sticker, thanks.
 
Junkyard hubs are the easy way to go... you need both wheel bearing nuts and the keyed washer that goes between them too. You will also need two specialty sockets to remove the auto hub bearing nut and another to reinstall the manual bearing nuts. While you're in there replacing that stuff, it is a great time to pull it all apart down to the knuckle and re-grease everything and make sure the spindle bearing, wiper and wheel bearings/seal are all in good shape.

You don't necessarily need a shift kit but I truly hate how A4LD variants shift. My wife's 95 is horrible. You never quite know when it's going to shift. A shift kit would help... firmer, more predictable shifts. That and probably a valve body gasket is on a my short list of projects that need to get done.
 
Since I got so much help about the '97 I thought I'd share how that all went down since I BOUGHT THE TRUCK.

Price 8922 plus "processing fee" 600 so I call it 9500. With tax, title, registration, and plates, 10k even. That was my budget so it worked out. It was a long struggle but I did all the stuff people said and at the end they were stuck at 10.5k and I was stuck at 10k "out the door" and I told them you want to make 3k so you have room, you can do it (cuz the sales guy had already told me they expect to make 3k). They said, yeah, but we put 2,700 into it. I was like, you don't pay yourself, that's all internal. They said, but there's parts, and there's cleaning and detailing. I was like, you didn't clean that truck, there's trash in it. He goes we didn't clean it? Ok then 10k.

Processing fee is a rip off but there is certainly some value to getting your registration and plates and all that done by them as opposed to going to DMV. It's not worth 600 though.

I have these things to fix:
1. Cruise control buttons shot
2. Left tailgate latch shot

these I just did on my 99, cost is very little and easy to do

3. The cargo cover I went to pull it out when I was looking at it and it looks like it was never used at all. It came out rather hard and does not retract in. It looks like there are screws that hold in the back interior panel and then I should be able to get to the mechanism and hopefully it's just kind of froze from not being used.

Seems to have everything. Two keys, two remotes, the original owner manual with zipper case.

This one was pretty much optioned out.

I think the AT tires are slightly noisier/rougher than the street tires on the '99. But it drives nice. Brakes work awesome and nice and smooth.

Dealer did actually do some work on it. I was looking at the sheet and saw wipers, air filter, oil change, inspection, and heater control valve, which I knew about. I was like, that ain't 2,700 bucks of work. He says turn it over. Ah - on the other side, they changed 3 wheel bearings/associated stuff you change with them, and the put new rotors/pads and new drums/shoes so I don't think that adds up to 2,700 but it'd still be a chunk of change in parts and it would be a lot of work for me to do it and good to know it at least doesn't need those things. Also new ac/delco battery.

After I got home I found a Pioneer 6-disc changer under the passenger seat. Pretty sure that's OEM, it was an option. Haven't tried it yet.
 
Nice, welcome to the dark side… err, 4x4 side…

I personally highly recommend shift kits for the auto transmission. Not sure if yours would be A4LD or one of its replacements, that would matter for what shift kit and parts you get but not a huge difference for how it’s done. I did the work to my 92 before it got wrecked and it made that A4LD shift better than my green 00 that had a 5R55 that went out on me. I’m anxious to get my green Ranger back up, but I’d like to do shift kits to all of my autos now.
 
Cruise control buttons... the 97 had a different set than all of the other years. Mine were shot and i looked and 98 and newer were only 20 bucks for both pods, 97 was almost 100 bucks!

Went and grabbed a set out of a junkyard 1999 ranger that looked really good compared them to my originals. And lo and behold they are different. The electric wiring and pins is different. Ended up popping the rubber covers off the newer ones and swapping them onto the original 97 pods. Other than the one side still doesnot light up when the lights are on they look great and work great.


AJ
 
You don't need a special socket to get the auto hub nuts off, just a magnet (for the key) and a big pair of channel lock pliers... You do need a D44 hub nut socket to get the manual hub locknuts off and on though... I've made do with dumb things in the junkyard but the right tool is highly recommended... The stock manual hubs are fine, they're Warn, there's higher rated ones but anything new is a fair amount of change...

For the cargo cover, there's like 6 screws on the steel panel under the back window, pull that off and you can see it, I don't remember the details but I know I've been in there a couple times...
 
OK, thanks, kind of a bummer about the cruise buttons being different but I'd spring for them one way or the other.
Thanks for info in the hubs, and shift kit. So far the shifts seem ok, maybe not quite as smooth as the '99.

If my stock hubs are pretty good then maybe I don't change them. I'll have to learn a little more about it. I do kind of like the idea of having manual hubs and just leave them on if you think there is even a chance you'll be using the 4x4 and just take the milage hit as long as it's not mucking up something else. If it's not a big deal I do kind of like the graphic on the front hubs.

Not a lot of "don't like" on it. I miss the rear doors, but dog can still get in, and there's a bit more room without the jack holder sticking out in the rear. I don't really like the tilt-out windows because you hardly use them plus I've heard they can leak plus the grommets that hold the glass are to me cosmetically not good. Minor things. Lack of rear doors not so minor, however, with the cargo box, that's really pretty big, you could fit stuff t

Power mirrors/windows/locks, big improvement. Center console big improvement as it's huge. I think I could still stick a regular console on the hump under the dash like my '99 has besides.
Didn't find much cool stuff in it, one bungee and one tie down. And a couple of Weathertech wind guard things for the front windows, not sure if they were stock or added at some point then taken off. I personally don't think they look that good. Looks like they had a stick-on attachment. And 4 CD's, but not anything I like. That version truck had cool stuff I didn't even look for like delay-off for the courtesy lights and if you have it locked and jiggle the door handle that turns on the interior light so that must be part of anti-theft.
I have 2 skid plates :)one small over the trans (I assume) and one long one over the fuel tank. bet it was standard w/ 4x4 or maybe on all of them. You don't see anything in the '97 brochure about skid plates while in later brochures, for example '03, they do.
I kind of think it was garage kept because I don't see any of the usual shrinkage of rubber seals etc which is good they are pain to do.

Questions

The end of the bed on the sides there are rubber sealers so when you close the tailgate you don't have a gap there. They are held on by a few panel retainers. It's like a thick inner tube material but it's curved so when the gate closes it seals up against it. One is missing. Where in the world do you think I could get that, junkyard, or possibly OEM-type? I know not all Rangers have those. It was clearly factory, not something somebody drilled holes and kluged up.

Graphics. I see only one pic in the '97 brochure where there's a 4x4 sticker on the rear fender and I suspect it's an STX or Splash. I don't think they were put on every 4x4 like today. I'm pretty sure mine would -not- have had it, does that make sense? Hubs say 4x4 Automatic on them maybe that's enough graphics, anyone who cares can see that and know. If I were going to put a sticker on the fender I think I'd go w/ what Ford used in '97 if I could find it or find the pattern as I have a cutter and could make them. I'm kind of thinking leave well enough alone.

Tires. I have Cooper Discover RTX raised white letters 235/75R15. That would have been the stock tire. They have 4 to 5mm tread (over 1/8" but less than 1/4"). New they would have 1/2". So that's pretty worn, I'm ok legally (for a year anyway) but I'm wondering should I go with the same thing when I do replace them. They're pricy and believe me that came up several times in the haggling.

How do I know if I have ABS? It was an option.

What's the best way to clean the engine? I mean, I've done it before on other cars, usually I'd cover the distributor or any electronics and use that Gunk and then gently spray it down. Any tips on that I'd appreciate.
It's not horrible grungy just mainly dust/dirt from what I see so far.

Is there any easy way absent the door jamb sticker to tell final drive ratio and springs? That's not stopping me from anything, just would like to know. I am chasing getting the sticker through the dealer.

I cannot find Pioneer CDX-FM563 user manual or any decent youtube about it so if anyone has this changer let me know. That's one of the first things I'm looking at to fix because having that working would be a big upgrade especially since when I bought it I didn't know it had it in there.

There is sticker inside left rear shackle on the axle it says 359F. Does that tell me anything?

Springs (rear) say F27A XB then under that EW7 134C. Same question, is it decodable?

I have side rails and rubber mat on the bed floor, these look stock, but I don't like the mat arrangement because water gets under it around the edges and I see the beginnings of rust especially you have seams. Can't I put in a Ford bedliner if I can find one? Is that hard to do?

The floor of the bed appears to be a separate sheet of formed metal that is held to the truck with large hex bolts. It looks like, if your bed gets f'ed up you can simply unbolt it and put in a new bed floor. Am I nuts or is that true?

These have no tow hooks, and I guess the answer to that is "you don't need them because you don't get stuck in it". I noticed there are two spaced holes in the front crossmember that runs under the radiator and it looks like it's fairly integral to the frame, so I'm wondering, is there any possibility these holes were intended for tow hooks? I know one person put some in not sure if he used those holes.

If I want to raise the height just a bit like say 1" or 1-1/2" is that recommended, is it hard to do? I know it raises the c/g so I don't want it to drive a whole lot different. It doesn't look like there's a whole lot of clearance at the front and rear diff's. On the other hand, when you go over things you are trying to keep your wheel on the high part generally speaking, right? So I'm thinking for mild to semi-serious off-roading Ford probably tried to find the balance between it being decent off road and still drive decent on the highway.

Thanks again for all the help. I have to think with the 4.0L and the 4x4 the truck is really a beast compared to my 2wd '99. The 4.0L does have significantly more go than the 3.0L even with the added weight of the front drive train. My other half says it's louder. I don't think I have any exhaust leaks... maybe it's just louder. All the exhaust looks stock.
 
Congratulations on the new truck!


Axle info should be on the tag on a bolt at the rear diff.
CD changer manual is attached.
 

Attachments

@Josh B You were saying the hubs aren't electric, (which answers my question wouldn't I have wiring) but the forward movement of the drive shaft engages the hubs. If I got that right.
So then it makes sense that my manual says when I turn off 4x4 I need to back up in a straight line 10' or more that will dis-engage the hubs. Right?
They call them "Automatic" (says on the hub) but really, it's not totally auto.
I don't know if I would want to switch to manual transfer case I can see it's more reliable but how often are you in a situation where the electronics fails for the dash switch?
Realizing that when you go from highway driving to off road you are basically asking things to break because it's more stress on things than usual.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Overland of America

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Our Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top