97 Not starting?

[jsob]

So I replaced my plugs and wires, oil and oil filter. fired my ranger (after correcting my fireing order) up all fine. tinkered with my idle cause it seemed pretty low and still to be a little choppy.. Then read on here that i should unplug the battery to rest the computer. Well problem is, my battery cables nuts are rounded, so not wanting to replace them at this moment, removed some relays and fuses to "disconnect" the computer from power.. Well inspecting the cable i noticed the body ground from the battery to the body was broken off.. I put all the fuses and relays back, started it up fine.. okay? seemed off, so i redid the ground wire... Now the truck wont start without being jumped.. runs fun after its jumped, just when you try to start it just clicks like a dead battery and dies out slowly.. fires up when jumped without a problem and stays running.. Thought maybe i killed the battery somehow? let it run for about 20 min turned it off, BAM doesnt start...
Any ideas on exactly WHAT i did? I asked a few mechanical friends they all seem a little "stumped" ("don't work on fords, or know much about the wireing.. sorry")

Just got this truck about 2 weeks ago, it's been nothing but issues.. about 200$ for a hack job exhaust because nowheres around here had stock fit that wouldnt take a week to get here, has a bad body mount.. Gas splashes out from the top of the tank? unsure where cant see... Thank god i got it cheap...

1997 Ford ranger 4X2 5 speed 2.3L

 

[RonD]

Battery cables need to be cleaned, both of them, that is why you need to jump it, battery can not provide it's full amps through bad connection, jumper cables are good connection to another battery.
Rounded off or not you need to remove the cables and clean the terminals and cable ends.

There is no "idle adjustment" on any fuel injected engine.
Computer controls the idle using the IAC(idle air control) Valve.

If you were messing with the TPS(throttle position sensor), anti-diesel screw on the throttle linkage then you goofed it up.
After engine is warmed up, unplug the connector on the IAC Valve, engine RPM should drop down to 500rpm, if it doesn't then turn that screw so it does.
If idle still stays above 500 then you have a vacuum leak, which can cause a rough idle

 

[jsob]

Battery cables need to be cleaned, both of them, that is why you need to jump it, battery can not provide it's full amps through bad connection, jumper cables are good connection to another battery.
Rounded off or not you need to remove the cables and clean the terminals and cable ends.

There is no "idle adjustment" on any fuel injected engine.
Computer controls the idle using the IAC(idle air control) Valve.

If you were messing with the TPS(throttle position sensor), anti-diesel screw on the throttle linkage then you goofed it up.
After engine is warmed up, unplug the connector on the IAC Valve, engine RPM should drop down to 500rpm, if it doesn't then turn that screw so it does.
If idle still stays above 500 then you have a vacuum leak, which can cause a rough idle

Alright thanks ill try that

 

[jsob]

Replaced to old connectors with some new brass ones, with brass connectors on the ground and positive wires, also got a new ground wire to replace the old one, cleaned up the terminals and BAM starts up now. Still idles funny but I don't have a rpm gauge yet installed. Thanks for the help!

 

[RonD]

Good Work

Spark plug wires and coils can arc to ground and loose voltage at spark plug so you get a rough idle.

Next dark night or in garage with lights off, watch spark plug wires and coils for arcing while engine is idling, easier to see when it is dark, don't grab where it is arcing, lol.


Can of Seafoam or similar injector cleaner in the gas tank can clean up rough idles, I do a can once a year in all my fuel injected engines.
As injectors get "dirty" tips they drip fuel at idle instead of spraying it, so you get slight missing.