'97 clutch master cyl swap

[Teddyzee]

Has anyone swapped to an earlier (larger bore) master cylinder on a later truck? The '95 and later trucks have to master mounted in a cast bracket, not bolted to the firewall. (curing a previous problem)

They look like they have the rod on a similar angle, just hoping the rod will pass through the hole in the cast bracket.

I'm aware '92 and older trucks had a 3/4" master cylinder, and also that some non- 4.0 '88 to '91 trucks had a 7/8" master.

Reason for this is my master is 5/8 bore, and it's not giving my 3/4" slave (from '84 Ranger) enough travel. I can adjust it enough to move the truck, but it either slips, or won't go into gear, depending where I set it. I also have a slave from a 280Z, but it's also 3/4" bore.

Anyone know of a 5/8 or smaller slave? I've exhausted most any Datsun/Nissan/Honda/Toyota applications.

Thanks for any help.

BTW, its a 5.0 H.O. ('92) with a T-5 in a '97 2wd Ranger Supercab.

 

[Iron Ranger]

On RPS, some one used an 11/16" bore slave cylinder for his 5.0 swap, and it worked perfectly, unfortunatly, I can't seem to find the page again, since he also gave the part# from NAPA auto.

Here's two I found

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(eh12va55wf0voo45pvuu5p3d))/Detail.aspx?R=NNC37496_0216700944

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(eh12va55wf0voo45pvuu5p3d))/Detail.aspx?R=NNC37681_0216699059

This one is as small as it gets

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(eh12va55wf0voo45pvuu5p3d))/Detail.aspx?R=NNC37362_0226060501

As far as throw goes, it won't say. As long as it opens around 1 1/4", it should be enough to disengage the clutch and fully re-engage it.

 

[Teddyzee]

Cool, thanks!

 

[Frank ZX]

Teddy,I had the same problem.I had to use a longer threaded rod,about 10"long.Push the piston all the way into the bore,and preload the throw out bearing.Hope this helps.I also have a trick for bleeding the master without touching the bleeder screw.If you need me to explane,LMK

 

[Teddyzee]

Teddy,I had the same problem.I had to use a longer threaded rod,about 10"long.Push the piston all the way into the bore,and preload the throw out bearing.Hope this helps.I also have a trick for bleeding the master without touching the bleeder screw.If you need me to explane,LMK

I have the threaded rod long enough to keep the clutch slipping with the my foot off the pedal, so I'm good that way.

Pass on any bleeding tips. That was fun, too.

 

[Frank ZX]

I have the threaded rod long enough to keep the clutch slipping with the my foot off the pedal, so I'm good that way.

Pass on any bleeding tips. That was fun, too.

Fill the resivor to the full mark,but leave the cap off.Hit the clutch pedal with the side of your fist,and watch bubbles come to the surface.10 min.later you have a full pedal,and no mess.Works on brakes,and motorcycles too.

 

[Mac]

Teddy, what is the stroke on your master cylinder? It really is just a math problem to come up with the required bore on the slave to get the 1 1/4" travel. Anybody out there know how much the clutch is depressed by the throwout bearing or is recomemded? My Mustang shop manual is out on loan. It also tells what the pre-load should be.
Dave

 

[Frank ZX]

I have the threaded rod long enough to keep the clutch slipping with the my foot off the pedal, so I'm good that way.

Pass on any bleeding tips. That was fun, too.

I have a spare slave cyl,if you need it.
Also,call TP to see if there cyl is anything special.That is where I origionally got mine from.