96 2.3 starts and then quits, intermittently

[cstarbard]

I just started developing this weird issue where intermittently, my 96 2.3 will start fine, then immediately quit. It always starts right back up after it quits and will only do this start-then-quit thing intermittently. Though as of late this has gotten more frequent.

Any ideas what might cause this? Truck runs very well and drives fine. Has always started good.

Is it possible that my ignition cylinder is wearing out? It has been getting sloppier for a while, and I also had this issue the other day where the key went in a little weird, on my half hour drive following I noticed that the turn signals didn't work at all (but brakes and reverse did). I took the key out when I got to my destination and when I started the truck back up, the turn signals worked fine and have since...

Just in case that's related

 

[RonD]

Ignition switch under the steering column could cause that issue
It has 4 12volt OUT wires that send power to various systems
But Flasher and Reverse lights share one wire


Start and stall could be Fuel Pump Relay
When key is turned on the Computer boots up and closes Fuel pump Relay for 2 seconds, and only 2 seconds to prime the system, then it waits until engine RPMs are above 400 and then closes relay full time

Listen for the Fuel Pump to run next time you turn on the key, it makes a loud HUMMMM noise from the gas tank, you can hear it in the cab, turn Radio down, lol.
Repeat key off and on as much as you like to confirm you know what to listen for, fuel pumps runs for 2 seconds EACH TIME key is turned on.

 

[cstarbard]

Ignition switch under the steering column could cause that issue
It has 4 12volt OUT wires that send power to various systems
But Flasher and Reverse lights share one wire


Start and stall could be Fuel Pump Relay
When key is turned on the Computer boots up and closes Fuel pump Relay for 2 seconds, and only 2 seconds to prime the system, then it waits until engine RPMs are above 400 and then closes relay full time

Listen for the Fuel Pump to run next time you turn on the key, it makes a loud HUMMMM noise from the gas tank, you can hear it in the cab, turn Radio down, lol.
Repeat key off and on as much as you like to confirm you know what to listen for, fuel pumps runs for 2 seconds EACH TIME key is turned on.

Thanks Ron!!

I can always hear the fuel pump prime with the key. I have several spare fuel pump relays so I will probably swap the current one with a spare for kicks and see if that eliminates my intermittent quitting. One thing about the fuel pump that I have noticed, which strikes me as kind of weird, is that with all the other rangers I have had, and other vehicles in general, I hear the constant hum of the fuel pump while running. On this particular truck, the constant hum of the fuel pump while running sounds like it cuts out randomly; like I'll hear hum silence hum silence, something like that. I did test my fuel pressure a while ago before my tester crapped out, and the pressure was perfect while running but would fall quickly after I shut the truck off, something I have been meaning to look into again

So I should investigate the ignition switch? If flasher and reverse share one wire, what I am surmising from that is that it's kind of weird that the turn signals stopped working but I still had reverse lights. What does that suggest, if anything, to do?

Any chance you have a wiring diagram for the ignition switch? I have had to replace many pigtails on my truck that for whatever reason stopped delivering constant power, as confirmed with multimeter. I guess I wouldn't be surprised if a similar thing happened to the ignition switch, It would be nice to check to see that all the wires to it are OK. I suppose if they are 12v out I don't really need a diagram because I am looking for 12v with them with key on?

 

[cstarbard]

I just checked the fuel pump prime with key on, you can hear it prime for two seconds like you said, and then hear relay click, like clockwork. Did it about a dozen times, did same thing every time

Thanks again. At this point the start-quit thing is just an annoyance, because the truck always starts right back up, but I'm worried it will get worse and I'm not looking forward to a dead truck this winter !

 

[cstarbard]

I have one other very weird note to add to all this.

My ignition lock/key cylinder has definitely been replaced before by someone, it looks different than others I've seen and has non Ford keys for it. Even though my key for the ignition has the same pattern cut into it on either edge of the key (it's pattern si symmetrical, is what I'm trying to say) the key only fits into the ignition cylinder ONE way. If you put it in the "wrong" way, the only way to know is that the cylinder gets a little harder to turn.

The first time I put the key in "wrong" was shortly after I bought the truck, I started the truck up, started fine, but once it was running, pushing the clutch down tried to engage the starter I pushed the clutch down and heard this awful grind, immediately released it, grind stopped. When I pushed clutch pedal again, same grind- sounded just like starter gear grinding flywheel teeth. I shut it off, reversed the key, and have been super careful not to do that again. I had kind of forgotten this happened.

Maybe both my ignition cylinder and switch ought to be replaced..?

 

[tomw]

The lock cylinder likely has a key that is cut incorrectly on one side. The 'bump/valley' is too tall/short, and binds the cylinder, leaving it with the rod extended that pushes on the actual electrical ignition switch.
I had the switch fail, come apart at the crimps due to years of twist of the bundle of conductors/wires it has attached. The 'pot metal' crimp lugs gave up, and the gizzards were slowly oozing (solid piece, but it was a sloooow process) such that contact was lost. The engine would start & run, but if I bumped the key, it would shut off. New switch for less than $10, but you have to remove some break-off bolts. I used a file to make a flat on each side, and then some vise-grips to unscrew. Replaced with regular bolts.
My lock cylinder just stopped turning. Flipped the key, still no go. Wiggled and was able to make it work. Ordered a replacement from bay/zon for less than $10 shipped. Happy as a clam after install.
I tried re-crimping the switch, but it didn't last real long, so I got a new one.
tom

 

[cstarbard]

The lock cylinder likely has a key that is cut incorrectly on one side. The 'bump/valley' is too tall/short, and binds the cylinder, leaving it with the rod extended that pushes on the actual electrical ignition switch.
I had the switch fail, come apart at the crimps due to years of twist of the bundle of conductors/wires it has attached. The 'pot metal' crimp lugs gave up, and the gizzards were slowly oozing (solid piece, but it was a sloooow process) such that contact was lost. The engine would start & run, but if I bumped the key, it would shut off. New switch for less than $10, but you have to remove some break-off bolts. I used a file to make a flat on each side, and then some vise-grips to unscrew. Replaced with regular bolts.
My lock cylinder just stopped turning. Flipped the key, still no go. Wiggled and was able to make it work. Ordered a replacement from bay/zon for less than $10 shipped. Happy as a clam after install.
I tried re-crimping the switch, but it didn't last real long, so I got a new one.
tom

Interesting. Thanks for the help!

I bought both the ignition switch and the lock cylinder today, hopefully that does it. I'll inspect the wires to the ignition switch while I'm in there.