95 Ranger 2" Body Lift Kits?

[dbrutherford]

Anyone know of any of these? I have looked everywhere (Summit, James Duff, Jeggs, ect...) but all I can seem to find is a 3" Performance Accesories body lift kit. Really a 1" or 2" max is all I want. To me 3" is too much and I am not a big fan of body lifts anyway due to thw bumper relocation and frame gaps.

Right now I have 2" Sky Jacker coils in the front to level my 95 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 ext cab. I want to fit 33's without going to a full 4" suspension lift. Right now I have 31's no problem and had no problem when it was stock with sagged out stock springs. Plus for when... if... I ever do a V8 swap, I will have the necessary clearance for the engine. I want to replace all my body mount bushings too when I do the body lift. I have seen the individual blocks for sale on eBay but that seems like a painful expensive route to take.

You guys know of any other roda blocks when putting on a body lift? I know I will need the shifter extension too. I have heard ebrake cables and battery cables won't reach.

 

[TheBeast]

Could always take a 3" kit, and cut an inch off the spacers. It's an option.

 

[dbrutherford]

I thought of that and even asked PA but they said the bolts would be too long. PA said they are phasing out the 2" kits. I thought of just doing what you said anyway and perhaps doing just 1" or 1.5". I just want a hair more clearance for tires and future engine swap. My big thing is if I was to do a 4" suspension or 6" suspension than the 3" body lift would be just way too much.

 

[ThatGuy]

Call Duff. I think they have a 2" but it's not in the catalog.

 

[TheBeast]

Use hocky pucks.

 

[patrick 26]

i have a buddy who has used hocky pucks and they work well

 

[brendank]

You could cut the 3" kit down to 2" and then just buy a few bolts that are the right size.

I made a 3" kit from 1" diameter thick wall tube, with washers welded on the ends. I wanted to use bolts but I had ready rod available so I cut that to length and welded a nut on one end. Made for easy bolts that were cut to whatever length I wanted.

I made my own shifter extension, although with only 2", I'm not sure it's necessary.

Battery cables were fine, but I had to extend one of the ground cables under the hood. IIRC I did have to move the ebrake mount bracket thats on the framerail right under the drivers side door.

Some people say to use hockey pucks, but I would avoid that. I don't think its a good idea. How much harder is it to weld up your own with some steel tube rather than using rubber that wasn't meant to support a vehicle?

 

[LittleHorse]

Some people say to use hockey pucks, but I would avoid that. I don't think its a good idea. How much harder is it to weld up your own with some steel tube rather than using rubber that wasn't meant to support a vehicle?

pretty hard if you don't have access to a welder. Probably be easier to just buy bolts in the correct length. Still, you have to have the tools to cut the tubing square and to lengths. Plenty of people have a metal chop saw or a band saw in their garage at home, or access to it through work or friends.

Also, there are tons of hockey puck lifts out there, whether it be the right or wrong thing to do it works well enough. I'm sure a hockey puck would be in better shape after 5 years than my stock body mounts are now. The biggest threats to rubber are oil and UV radiation. If you can keep them away from that they should be ok.

 

[TheBeast]

Some people use them, some don't. I know a fellow here that used them to lift his crown vic (run's 20+ wheels), which I think is dumb, but he used hocky pucks. Been riding around on them for like half a year now. It's an option for those that lack the money required to do a higher end kit.

 

[dbrutherford]

Well I think I am going to be forced to buy a 3" kit, then but new bolts and cut the blocks down to 2". I called everywhere and no one sells a 2" kit for the 95 to 97 Rangers. No one knows why either. I have seen the 2" blocks on eBay but they are not as big around as the 3" tall blocks. So I guess that is the route I will take. I believe the 3" blocks are 3" tall and 3" in dia. The 2" blocks are 2" tall and 2" in dia. I may only go 1.5" tall because it won't look awful when I do a 4" suspension lift and it won't cause as many ebrake, steering, and other hose issues. Looks like it will be the most expensive body lift in the history of body lifts!