95 Ranger 2.3 help me

[DSchuch120]

Awesome so its definitely the timing.

 

[Mikel89us]

He cam timing is pretty easy to fix, just loosen the belt, tighten the hold down for the tensioner. Once you have that done, set the crank to top dead center, then locate the timing mark for the cam, set it a little after the mark(to make it easier to get the belt on) and put it around the auxiliary shaft(the 95 that shaft does not need to be timed in any certain way, it only runs the oil pump). Then put it on the cam pulley, then slowly rotate the cam pulley till the belt is snug. Make sure the marks line up properly on the crank and cam, if the do loosen the hold down on the tensioner. I always take a screwdriver and pry on the pulley to make sure to take up all the slack, then remove the screwdriver and tighten the bolts for the tensioner. Rotate the motor 2-4 times and re check the marks. If its off, repeat necessary steps.

 

[mvb1130]

I have the same truck and the same thing happened to me but mine was a clogged catalytic converter. I just pulled the upstream o2 and it runs fine now. I haven't gotten around to putting a new cat on it yet. If you still have a cat on there I would try that.

 

[Mikel89us]

Cat=good call too.

 

[DSchuch120]

Truck never had a cat only muffler with O2. I checked the mark on the cam pulley.. Which I've heard should have the diamond mark pointing at 12:00 its far off from 1200

 

[tomw]

With the crank keyway at 12:00, or pulley mark at TDC, the cam sprocket triangle should be at about 4:00, aligned with the 'wire' pointer attached to the front of the engine. Pry out the black plastic plug and look. If moved, remove cover & re-time the cam/crank.
tom

 

[Mikel89us]

This motor will have a plastic pointer, as stated around 4oclock. There are three marks, you want the diamond or triangle pointed at the middle mark. If you have a broken timing mark, you can use a straight edge or string and run it from the centerline of the cam bolt to the centerline of the aux shaft bolt, and line the mark up to that.

 

[XLTsplash]

The oil pump sprocket does needed to be aligned correctly also, because it signals the cam sensor so the the PCM can identify number one cylinder at TDC.

 

[Mikel89us]

Xlt, no it doesn't, the 95 still uses the crank sensor. The 96 is when they made the change.

 

[XLTsplash]

The 1995 Ford Ranger EVTM shows the cam sensor in the same place as my 1997. So if your truck has the sensor, be sure the also align the marks on the oil pump sprocket.

 

[Mikel89us]

Unless they did a mid year change, I pulled a 95 ranger motor to do a 2.5 swap in to my distributor mustang, and used that block. The 2.3's(&2.5) with the cam sensor do not have the cutout for the distributor. I'm not saying its impossible, but I know that they did put the old style crank fire system in the 95's. Either way, to be on the safe side, setting it would be a good idea.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

I thought my 97 2.3L had a clogged cat

Fixed it by running a quart of the cheapest transmission fluid in a full tank of gas for a few tanks

Seafoaming the engine (remove the brake booster vacuum line, run the engine, slowly trickle about 1/3-1/2 can down the vacuum line while someone keeps the engine rpm up at around 2-3K rpm, once a huge cloud of white smoke starts coming out, shut down engine w/ key, replace brake booster vacuum line, wait about 1 hr, then drive the snot out of the truck [it will smoke like a busted stove for about 10 minutes])

Then taking the air intake box off, using a squeeze spray bottle, misted water in the throttle body slowly, stopping when the engine would bog down, did about 1/2 the bottle of water [watch for a puddle of black goo to drip out of tail pipe], then put back on air box/hose

Seems to have helped alot