95 4x4 auto mpg effiency?

[YellowRanger95]

Im new to the site but I've been reading quite a few articles... I have a 95 4x4 splash extended cab, automatic with 64k miles... I have a K&N drop in air filter (probably needs cleaned) and I drive about 300 miles a week for work, mostly in town. My average mpg is 18 but i recently changed tires and rims that now give me about 16-17 mpg. I was wondering what I can do to give me atleast another 3 mpg that doesnt break the bank. I dont believe my transfer case fluid or rear differential fluid havent been changed...

I was curious about underdrive pulleys/electric fans/roller rockers/phenolic spacers/performance chips... Im not to familiar with mechanics, like tearing off major parts... So what would be cost effecient with a mechanic or I can do myself?

 

[03ranger30]

I think the only way you are gonna get those MPGs back is to put the old wheels and tires on. Underdrive pulleys are probably the best thing for these engines. Spacers are just a waste of money and don't really do anything and neither do electric fans.

 

[Stoodybayker]

I have a 94 4.0 auto, extended cab. With the original 265/75-r15s, I got 16 to 17 mpg. Dropping the wheels to 235/75-r15s got me up to 20mpg (corrected)

I don't think you can get a whole lot better, as that's just what these rigs get.

I had a 94 3.0 2wd manual....and that got 23.

 

[03ranger30]

I have gotten 25 in mine, but that was cruising on nice flat highway

 

[stmitch]

Are the new wheels/tires the same size as stock? If not, did you make any correction for the new size? Most people don't realize that changing the outer diameter of tires affects the accuracy of the odometer and speedometer, which are calibrated specifically for the stock tire size. It's very possible, that you're now traveling just as far on a tank of fuel but your odometer isn't reading the correct distance traveled.

 

[YellowRanger95]

Ah sorry, my wording was a little off. I know that the change in tires and rims is affecting my mileage. They are stock 96 ranger rims and 31x10.50 Radial SXT all terrains that only have a year of driving but sat on a broken ranger for a year and half. I know the tires effect it, what im trying to ask is what the best part is I can get to increase the mileage that also doesnt cost more than $200.

 

[basketranger]

my e-fan i picked up 0.8 mpg, E-3 plugs maybe 0.2, this all i have any personnal experience with.

 

[YellowRanger95]

Went to Napa a couple days ago. They're getting AMSOIL products in this Wednesday. My differentials haven't been changed since the truck was bought as far as I know (It's at 64k miles). I bought it on black Friday last year and have only used regular 5W30 with the premium oil filter, they suggested going full synthetic to double the life of my oil change. Also they suggested changing all my wet boxes over to synthetic. It's going to cost about $150 in fluid, but will last me quite a while. Right now I'm filling up at half a tank and getting 17 mpg when mostly driving in the city and 18.5-19 when I'm sent out of town for work... This seems like the only thing I'm capable of doing to improve mpg. The mechanics I spoke to also said underdriving the crankshaft pulley isn't going to do much and isn't recommended for my driving style.

I'll report back next week after I run a tank down.

 

[YellowRanger95]

I've also spotted in a few threads that switch to 4.10 gears is a good move too... I'm not to mechanically inclined, so what does this mean?lol

 

[JP02XLT]

Changing gears and properly setting up a differential is not something someone with limited skills, tools or experience should attempt, more than likely if you do attempt it you will be paying someone in the near future to rebuild the mess you created. I have personally seen many "competent" mechanics fail at installing a ring & pinion.

JP02XLT

 

[YellowRanger95]

Well I've got my rear diff swapped out with 2 1/2 quarts of AMSOIL Severe Gear Full Synthetic 75W-90 and my transfer case drained (Fluid was darker than 20k motor oil... and ideas as to why?) and replaced with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic.

So far I've noticed it handles inclines better and can coast alot farther. A small increase in mpg but the rear diff fluid was almost $15 a quart... whereas the tranny fluid was$5.69 a quart...

In a month or so I'm saving up for all 10 quarts of AMSOIL synthetic transmission fluid and a filter, going to be about $140 change.

And any tips on changing the front differential? I was looking at it and couldn't figure out how to take it off easily...

 

[YellowRanger95]

Update. Unplugged the power to my A/C, and got 21 mpg on a half tank driving through mountain highways with lots of steeeeeeeep inclines.

EDIT: Also, my cousin is parting out his Lincoln with a 5.0 V8. I think I saw something on here about swapping an intake from a 5.0 to a 3.0... I could be wrong, but are their any other parts I can snag of his 5.0 to give me a little more power?

 

[lairdt]

EDIT: Also, my cousin is parting out his Lincoln with a 5.0 V8. I think I saw something on here about swapping an intake from a 5.0 to a 3.0... I could be wrong, but are their any other parts I can snag of his 5.0 to give me a little more power?

Nope! Intake from a 5.0 is not going to come close to fitting a 3.0, even if you hack off the extra runners. Other than some of the common sensors and coil, there's nothing that will swap over.

I'm thinking of pulling the 5.0 HO I put in my Towncar and dropping it into my Ranger though.

 

[Will]

Your 16-17 is on par with what these get. Every dime you spend trying to make it better makes it worse because it WON'T get better and that money could have been used to buy gas. You bought the stupid rims and tires and now are taking your lumps. Drive slower. Don't pretend you are in a fast vehicle and try to beat people at stoplights. It takes a certain amount of fuel to accelerate a vehicle. You made it worse with the tires because you took leverage away from the engine. Driving faster is more expensive--wind resistance grows by the square of the speed. A little faster means a lot more fuel is required to punch a hole in the air. If you look at a curve on a graphing calculator with 2 as an exponent, there is a gental line climbing from zero, then a big hook, then a steep line climbing toward infinity. 55mph is the point on that curve right before the hook. That's why they chose 55mph as the national speedlimit way back when we were young. Past 60mph and you are around the sharp bend and every mph cost you dearly.

You want to keep your truck and make it more efficient--take off like there is an egg under your right foot and keep it under 60. There is no secret thing that will make your truck more efficient.

There is a guy in India that will hammer dimples into your combustion chamber, like a gold ball, and he swears you will get 100mpg. Might try that.

 

[bobbywalter]

Nope! Intake from a 5.0 is not going to come close to fitting a 3.0, even if you hack off the extra runners. Other than some of the common sensors and coil, there's nothing that will swap over.

I'm thinking of pulling the 5.0 HO I put in my Towncar and dropping it into my Ranger though.

he is likely referring to the throttle body.



if you service the ac it will cycle less and you can leave it plugged in....thing is to service the ac could cost a grand if its fawked up... with the huge climb from unplugging it the pump may be on the way out....



17 town is to be expected, so will is pretty much right on in my eyes. though i dont know if your trying to hyper mile it or not either...

you can remove the fan depending on your drive cycle and see if it helps at all....if it does you can calculate from there if a e fan will be worth the trouble in your particular case...removing it is free, just do the test cycle with it uninstalled with proper caution to temps...