'94 vacum modulator replace/adjust

[trikerider]

a search didn't turn up much related to this que so here goes.


I have a V6 4.0 with auto and 4x4, I dropped the pan for a fluid/filter change as well as try to track down a persistent drip (the old modulator o-ring was shriveled thus allowing hot fluid past) and pulled the cats which the tailpipe flange was rotted needing repair anyway. beleive me this much easier said than done. lucky for me the hardest-to-get-to front bolt wrung intwo as did the next difficult the easy to get to threaded off with pb blaster, heat and 1/2 breaker - jeez I could write a seperate post on that biatch of a job.
anyways replaced the modulator - easy to see the old one had plenty miles on as well as bad o-ring. the old one had a slotted-head screw in threaded center which had been run into the bore about 1/4".
the new replacement has an allen screw which sticks out about the same distance maybe a bit less say 3/16th".
the tranny seems to have delayed shifting when in 'drive' or 'overdrive'.
reverse and low both engage quickly. is there specs on adjustment I can glean some knowledge of this that any members know of?

 

[trikerider]

I pulled the floor shifter cover plate for easier access - backed off the allen 1 turn, does fine now shifting low-up. have'nt been on the hi-way to check the 'd' to 'od' shift when in 'od'. will report later on this.

to anyone thinking of dropping the cats great gosminny be prepared for a royal PITA.
lucky for me the most difficult stud/nut to get to wrung intwo. I was dreading pulling the fender well to get my torch or sawzall in there. the next toughest stud wrung intwo also with a cheater pipe on my 1/2" breaker bar and I ain't a small feller at 280 and 6'4" it took all I had to snap 'em.
the easiest bottom stud I was able to soak with PB and I had to attend to another concern for a couple hours about midway soaked the stud again. it actually un-threaded after the PB soak.
still have to drill the studs out of the cat-to-header flange though. ruined 3 drill bits doing it. had to adapt a universal flange for the tailpipe to rear cat flange, that took an hour to fab.
if I had a digi-cam I'd post a thread on doing this job.
one piece of advice I can give anyone thinking of a trans fluid/filter change - if you have an air drill use an adaptor to hold a hex bolt, I used a 1/4 X 1/2" length self drill/tap screw with a sealer flange washer added to drill the pan in the bottom recess. I hesitated useing an electric since I did'nt know for sure that if the fluid came out in a gush it may ruin the drill.
behold - the air drill (I have a 5h.p. compressor) powered right through the metal sealing the hole when the sealer washer tightened. no more than a teaspoon of fluid was lost. I checked the fit after I drained by removeing the screw and r'ed the pan, I think this screw would work for a permanent fix however me being a welder I welded a 1/4 unf nut after drilling for clearance and fitting a bolt with sealing washer. I understand there are available drain-add kits but I made my own. don't shy away from useing your electric drill to do this job if you are handy w/it just keep steady pressure and don't overtighten the screw when it threads the pan
for me tranny fluid swap will be a 15k mile change - some may well say that's excess but I'm going that way.