94 ranger slave cylinder adjustment ?

[Leroy_Jenkins45]

i have a 94 ranger that I bought with a bad slave cylinder . So I installed a new slave cylinder and replaced the clutch disc . The line broke when pulling the trans , so I had to buy a new master cylinder assembly also . I bought the one that comes prefilled . So after putting it all together , I still have no clutch . I have bled it and the slave cylinder has alot of travel , just not quite enough . I can put it into gear and start it and it bogs the engine slightly , so it has to be close . The slave cylinder came with an odd wrench and no instructions , so I'm wondering if there is some kind of adjustment to be made and thats my problem . Any ideas or tips will be very appreciated as i'm at my wits end .

I have owned only fords all my life , so I'm used to working on them . this clutch system is one of the very few complaints I have ever had about fords . Thanks for any help

 

[BlackBII]

No adjustment.

Your master probably isn't bled thoroughly. You need to unbolt it from the firewall and from the clutch pedal, but leave the resovoir line connected. 'Tilt' the master so that it points 'up'. You want to make the hard line end the highest point, this will place the actuator rod pointing to the floor of your truck. Now, bleed it by pumping the rod by hand. It's tough, but it can be done.

The design of the master cylinder creates an air bubble trap, and tilting it towards the sky the only way to get the air bubbles to travel 'up' and into the line, down to the slave and out the bleeder. (aside from pull the entire thing and bench bleeding it, in which case, you essentially do the same thing.)

 

[Leroy_Jenkins45]

wouldnt it already be bled from the factory ? it was prefilled and fully assembled out of the box . Also , what is that wrench thing for ?

 

[BlackBII]

wouldnt it already be bled from the factory ? it was prefilled and fully assembled out of the box . Also , what is that wrench thing for ?

You would think, but the symptoms make it look like it wasn't fully bled. Now, it could be the slave not fully bled as well, but it sounds like you know what you are doing, and have gotten that part done.

Wrench....maybe it's the quick disconnect tool.

 

[Leroy_Jenkins45]

yep , thats it . Ok well it's too damn cold out there and football is coming on , so it's gonna wait till thursday lol . I'll try what you said and see where that gets me . I thought that there was enough travel in it as the slave is moving about 2" when you press the pedal , but I guess it's not enough .

 

[adsm08]

If you bought a "pre-bled" master and slave kit, no, your slave is not bled.

 

[Lrpalo]

This is the worst designed system I have ever worked on. It took 8 hours of bleeding to get barley enough pedal to drive it and even then took about a week of driving to fully work all the air out.

 

[BlackBII]

This is the worst designed system I have ever worked on. It took 8 hours of bleeding to get barley enough pedal to drive it and even then took about a week of driving to fully work all the air out.

If thats the case, you are doing it incorrectly. Every RBV clutch I've bled has taken less than 10 min to get full slave travel, all you have to do is get all the air out....

 

[Leroy_Jenkins45]

If you bought a "pre-bled" master and slave kit, no, your slave is not bled.

No , just the master came all assembled and filled . Then when I hooked everything up , I bled it . What threw me off was that I was thinking it was bled because I'm not getting any more air out of it and the slave is traveling about 2" so I thought it was fine . I think BlackBII is on to something with his first post because it is soooo close to being there . There cant be much air left and his idea seems logical with the master pointing downward . Speaking of that , cant I just jack that thing up like super high in the front and get it that way ? lol worth a try anyhow . I'm gonna work on it today and see what happens .

 

[modelageek]

I installed a new clutch and slave about a month ago. I did exactly what was in this videos as far as bleeding the system . One end of the tool is for disconnecting the line and then there is a slot at in the tool that you use to open and close the bleeder valve. I disconnected my line installed the clutch and slave, connected the line and then opened the bleeder for about 5 to 10 minutes and let it gravity bleed I had to keep filling the reservoir. I never touched the pedal. it worked fine. there is a chance with what you have done that you did get air in the pre-bleed MC.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEMoroZQM&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I installed a new clutch and slave about a month ago. I did exactly what was in this videos as far as bleeding the system . One end of the tool is for disconnecting the line and then there is a slot at in the tool that you use to open and close the bleeder valve. I disconnected my line installed the clutch and slave, connected the line and then opened the bleeder for about 5 to 10 minutes and let it gravity bleed I had to keep filling the reservoir. I never touched the pedal. it worked fine. there is a chance with what you have done that you did get air in the pre-bleed MC.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEMoroZQM&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc

Thanks for posting those videos. I've seen the second one. But the first one is great, it cleared up my misconceptions and showed me some new ways to deal with the line. The one time I took a tranny out [to swap from auto to standard] I disconnected the master from the firewall and snaked it out with the tranny. This was on a f-150 so I don't know if that would work with an RBV. This was before you-tube and this forum. Anyways, thanks again,

Richard

 

[Leroy_Jenkins45]

Awesome videos man . thanks .

 

[Leroy_Jenkins45]

This is the worst designed system I have ever worked on.

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