94 ranger drums tight

[swamprat]

I had a leaky wheel cylinder on my ranger so I pulled it off and replaced it. While I was doing that I figure I might as well replace shoes. Got it all done and the drum is tight on the shoes. I backed off the adjustment screen and opened the bleeder and that helped some but still tight. Never have I had them this tight before. Should I just run it and see if it settles in?

 

[adsm08]

Did you get the drums turned?

 

[swamprat]

Nope

 

[Denisefwd93]

Betting it's the rabs valve. On my 93 it cost me three sets of rear drums

I had a leaky wheel cylinder on my ranger so I pulled it off and replaced it. While I was doing that I figure I might as well replace shoes. Got it all done and the drum is tight on the shoes. I backed off the adjustment screen and opened the bleeder and that helped some but still tight. Never have I had them this tight before. Should I just run it and see if it settles in?

 

[swamprat]

I was bleeding the brakes when I found the leaking cylinder so doubt it is it. Also replaced hard line to that wheel. There is no fluid in cylinder or line going to it

 

[adsm08]

It sounds like you may have a set of re-arched shoes.

After market replacement shoes are often built as "re-arched". Basically they make the friction material thicker than it would have been at the factory to account for wear/material removed by machining on old drums. The idea is to return near-factory performance to drums that are near their wear limit.

First turn your adjuster screw in all the way, until you can't compress the shoes any farther by hand. If your drums are still tight that is it. Getting the drums cut, which you really should do anyway for a quality brake job, and they shouldn't be tight anymore.

 

[pjtoledo]

I'll stick my 2 cents worth in here, been there, dealt with it sort of deal.
I've had to customize a couple sets of new rear parts.

first make sure the top of the shoes are against the big pin, and the lowers are fully seated against the adjuster screw. make sure the Ebrake cable is slack and the arm is fully retracted.
put the drum on and tap it a couple times on each side to center stuff. spin it a few turns.

still drag? take the drum off and look for the hi spots. if they are hard to see get a marker and start marking the shoes.
put the drum back on and spin, remove and file down the hi spots. repeat as necessary.
use a long shaving motion, don't file flat spots in the shoes.
once I ground the slot in the adjuster screw a little deeper when only the bottoms were rubbing.


if you have a socket or something the same diameter as the top pin you can lay the pin, shoes, and adjuster screw inside the drum to inspect it.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I'll stick my 2 cents worth in here, been there, dealt with it sort of deal.
I've had to customize a couple sets of new rear parts.

first make sure the top of the shoes are against the big pin, and the lowers are fully seated against the adjuster screw. make sure the Ebrake cable is slack and the arm is fully retracted.
put the drum on and tap it a couple times on each side to center stuff. spin it a few turns.

still drag? take the drum off and look for the hi spots. if they are hard to see get a marker and start marking the shoes.
put the drum back on and spin, remove and file down the hi spots. repeat as necessary.
use a long shaving motion, don't file flat spots in the shoes.
once I ground the slot in the adjuster screw a little deeper when only the bottoms were rubbing.


if you have a socket or something the same diameter as the top pin you can lay the pin, shoes, and adjuster screw inside the drum to inspect it.

The woodworker in me wants to use sticky sandpaper on the inside of the drum lol

 

[pjtoledo]

The woodworker in me wants to use sticky sandpaper on the inside of the drum lol

the metal worker in me has a nice flexible shaving file. works great on round surfaces.

 

[swamprat]

The adjustment screw is all the way in. Top of shoes are not closed in on center pin. Leads me to believe the parking brake is stuck. Had parking brake on when I started and released it before I took brakes off.

 

[adsm08]

Make sure the bar isn't getting you jammed up. Then make sure you can't push the shoes in any farther. Don't be afraid to be rough with them.

 

[Bgunner]

IF the E-Break is not stuck on or adjusted to tightly then it is possible that you may have gotten the wrong size shoes for it. They made two different size drums and shoes for your model. A 9 inch and a 10 inch. It cant hurt to put a tape measure up against the drum to be sure.

9" drums specs:
Maximum Brake Diameter (Discard) (IN) 9.06
Bolt Circle Diameter (IN) 4.5
Bolt Hole Quantity 5
Outside Diameter (in) 10.61
ABS Sensor Ring Included No
Outer Cooling Fins Yes
Bolt Hole Diameter (In) 0.57
Brake Surface Width (IN) 2.17
Center Bore Diameter (IN) 2.54
Construction Composite
Height (in) 2.83
Nominal Diameter (IN) 9

10" drum specs:
Maximum Brake Diameter (Discard) (IN) 10.09
Bolt Circle Diameter (IN) 4.5
Bolt Hole Quantity 5
Outside Diameter (in) 11.69
ABS Sensor Ring Included No
Outer Cooling Fins No
Bolt Hole Diameter (In) 0.57
Brake Surface Width (IN) 2.92
Center Bore Diameter (IN) 2.54
Construction Composite
Height (in) 3.64
Nominal Diameter (IN) 10

 

[swamprat]

They are 10s and drum is 10

 

[pjtoledo]

The adjustment screw is all the way in. Top of shoes are not closed in on center pin. Leads me to believe the parking brake is stuck. Had parking brake on when I started and released it before I took brakes off.

bingo! at rest they must contact the pin, the springs will pull them in.

 

[swamprat]

So I got the drum on last night. I beat on the shoes some and that helped them went to the cable under the driver side and put a channel lock on the piece that connects the cables and pushed towards the rear. Cable moved about .375. Couple taps on shoes and drum slide on. Did other side in about 30 mins. Thanks for the help. Never had an issue before but then again this is first ranger the parking brake worked on. Lol