2.3L ('83-'97) 94 Ford Ranger starts then cuts power and dies

[Lucky2]

First time post. I’ve read through the forums and tried to get as much info as possible, but I have a few symptoms that don’t seem to match other posters.

History: past two weeks, engine has been having a rough/low idle when unloaded, but turning on the AC increases RPMs and the rough idle goes away. In the past 3 months, I replaced IAC valve, EGR, and DPFE for a code 335 and 327.

This morning, engine turns over, starts then dies. Second attempt engine started and ran fine. Drove into work no issues. Second start today, engine starts then dies immediately. After engine cranks over/starts, engine stalls within 1 second then the dash lights shut off and the battery voltage drops to 0 (bad relay?). Attempted to start several times and same result.

Battery is charged, starter is working as it should, and engine will start running so I believe it’s an electrical issue cutting power as soon as the starter is off. I hear the fuel pump turning on when I turn the key on, engine codes are 335 EGR out of range and 157 MAF signal is low or grounded.

Whenever I can get a tow/back to the garage, I plan to test MAF, fuel pump relay, and fuel pump. Any tips for diagnostic or other things to check? The main symptom I’m seeing that is different from other posts is the dash lights shutting off when the engine dies with the key still in the ignition. I’m thinking there may be an electrical issue cutting power to the system once the engine has cranked over. Thank you for your time.

 

[oldgeek]

Dash lights? Would that be the CEL?

 

[Lucky2]

Dash lights? Would that be the CEL?

All of the lights and gauges on the instrument panel. Same thing you would see removing the key from the ignition. Quick update, the exhaust side vacuum line of the DPFE sensor was burnt up and disconnected. Replacing the vacuum line and it is starting more consistently, but still having issues. I'm going to test the DPFE sensor this morning and I'll report back with what I find.

 

[Lucky2]

Update: DPFE tested fine. I noticed while testing it I have excessive play in my ignition lock cylinder which is causing the key to not stay in the "On" position and cutting power. I believe I was having two separate issues, DPFE vacuum line disconnected and causing rough idle plus a worn out ignition lock cylinder causing it to not stay in the "On" position. Going to try and track down an ignition lock cylinder and see if that fixes it.

 

[Lucky2]

Put the new ignition cylinder lock in and issue persisted. What I found is that the ignition lock cylinder isn't really what causes each position to "lock" in to place, but the ignition switch. Pulled the old ignition switch and sure enough it was pretty badly worn. Ordered a new one, swapped it over, and that fixed it! It is in a very tricky location mounted on top of the steering column about 6 inches behind the dash. I don't think I took enough pictures for a full write-up or tutorial but I can post some of them in here if that would be helpful. There are a bunch of good writeups for 95+, but the setup is a bit trickier for the older models.