• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

2.3L ('83-'97) 94 Ford Ranger starts then cuts power and dies


Lucky2

New Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
3
City
USA
State - Country
N/A
Vehicle Year
1994
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
First time post. I’ve read through the forums and tried to get as much info as possible, but I have a few symptoms that don’t seem to match other posters.

History: past two weeks, engine has been having a rough/low idle when unloaded, but turning on the AC increases RPMs and the rough idle goes away. In the past 3 months, I replaced IAC valve, EGR, and DPFE for a code 335 and 327.

This morning, engine turns over, starts then dies. Second attempt engine started and ran fine. Drove into work no issues. Second start today, engine starts then dies immediately. After engine cranks over/starts, engine stalls within 1 second then the dash lights shut off and the battery voltage drops to 0 (bad relay?). Attempted to start several times and same result.

Battery is charged, starter is working as it should, and engine will start running so I believe it’s an electrical issue cutting power as soon as the starter is off. I hear the fuel pump turning on when I turn the key on, engine codes are 335 EGR out of range and 157 MAF signal is low or grounded.

Whenever I can get a tow/back to the garage, I plan to test MAF, fuel pump relay, and fuel pump. Any tips for diagnostic or other things to check? The main symptom I’m seeing that is different from other posts is the dash lights shutting off when the engine dies with the key still in the ignition. I’m thinking there may be an electrical issue cutting power to the system once the engine has cranked over. Thank you for your time.
 
Dash lights? Would that be the CEL?
 
Dash lights? Would that be the CEL?
All of the lights and gauges on the instrument panel. Same thing you would see removing the key from the ignition. Quick update, the exhaust side vacuum line of the DPFE sensor was burnt up and disconnected. Replacing the vacuum line and it is starting more consistently, but still having issues. I'm going to test the DPFE sensor this morning and I'll report back with what I find.
 
Update: DPFE tested fine. I noticed while testing it I have excessive play in my ignition lock cylinder which is causing the key to not stay in the "On" position and cutting power. I believe I was having two separate issues, DPFE vacuum line disconnected and causing rough idle plus a worn out ignition lock cylinder causing it to not stay in the "On" position. Going to try and track down an ignition lock cylinder and see if that fixes it.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Overland of America

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Our Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top