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94 b4000 axle swap/offroad build


NO . in your picture the tie rod is under the knuckle and the drag link is over in the pic i posted both are OVER

i like the setup in your pic more but the added heigh in the first pic might help me that much more with my angle

I see what you are saying I actually drove it for a year with both over at first.
 
Thanks for the quick responses

what were the results Good, Bad, ugly. And why did you change it ?
I am tryin to avoid buyin the EXTREME drop pitman are due to price, and i had a bad experience with a broken sector shaft once That arm looks like like i would put alot of stress on everyhing
 
Thanks for the quick responses

what were the results Good, Bad, ugly. And why did you change it ?
I am tryin to avoid buyin the EXTREME drop pitman are due to price, and i had a bad experience with a broken sector shaft once That arm looks like like i would put alot of stress on everyhing

no real difference. above or below, most run it above for an extra 1" of ground clearance but I do have to say the crossover was the best investment on the whole rig.
 
Ill see if I can dig up the parts list, the DOM I used was a direct tap ID size for 3/4-16 hiems or rod ends. made it a ton easier to build. I did the whole conversion in a short afternoon tapping the tube by hand
 
ballistic fab has a kit which is less than i can get all the parts for locally, so i think i will be goin that direction

It comes with the following
price for this kit is 245$ or 249$ with High misalignment spacers

4 3/4"-16 CrMo high strength rod ends
4 Tube adapters for rod-ends machined from 1020 DOM steel
Two 1.5"OD .250 wall tubes for tie rod and drag-link up to 58" long
4 Jam nuts (two left hand and two right hand thread)
8 standard misalignment spacers 3/4" bore
4 Safety Washers (used for single sheer rod end applications)
thumbnail.asp


most likely will be goin to them for the trac-bar as well
 
ballistic fab has a kit which is less than i can get all the parts for locally, so i think i will be goin that direction

It comes with the following
price for this kit is 245$ or 249$ with High misalignment spacers

4 3/4"-16 CrMo high strength rod ends
4 Tube adapters for rod-ends machined from 1020 DOM steel
Two 1.5"OD .250 wall tubes for tie rod and drag-link up to 58" long
4 Jam nuts (two left hand and two right hand thread)
8 standard misalignment spacers 3/4" bore
4 Safety Washers (used for single sheer rod end applications)
thumbnail.asp


most likely will be goin to them for the trac-bar as well

Mine cost about 150.00 total and its solid tube no weld in bungs to work loose

DOM was 1 1-4" with .281 wall ends up with .688 ID same size as the drill bit needed for 3/4-16 tap
 
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Thank you very much hopefully i will be able to find all the parts for the same price you did.
I will deffinatly be goin the same route you did. with threading the tube
 
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Thank you very much hopefully i will be able to find all the parts for the same price you did.
I will deffinatly be goin the same route you did. with threading the tube

Ill do a write up on what I did here this week with pictures when I get a chance:icon_thumby:
 
DOM was 1 1-4" with .281 wall ends up with .688 ID same size as the drill bit needed for 3/4-16 tap

closest i can find is 1 1/4 with a .65 ID looks like i will have to drill it out to 11/16

And did you tap the DOM for left and right hand threads ?
 
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closest i can find is 1 1/4 with a .65 ID looks like i will have to drill it out to 11/16

And did you tap the DOM for left and right hand threads ?

Yes I did tap them both for left and right hand threads. I will see if I can find them here.

http://www.aladdinsteel.com/catalog/coldto2.html

This is where I got the size of the tube from but a local Phoenix AZ supplier got it for me. ITs a fairly common chassis building size
 
for the Cost of the taps you might as well just buy thread inserts, unless you plan on building alot of tie rods there isnt any savings.

as far as drilling it out to tap, I would take it to a machine shop to do that kind of work, but if you wanted to do it on your own I would suggest using a Step bit as it will maintain a straighter cut.
 
well lookin at my steerin has a couple of my buddies intrested in doin similar setup's. so it may be worthwhile to have the tools handy. plus using addapters would be arund 40$ which should cover at least one of the tap's needed, although threadin it doesnt sound too fun.


Maybe i'll just stick the tube into a pipe threader at work and hold onto the tap with a huge pipe wrench till the tap breaks off. sounds like fun
 
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You can get 1 of the taps for $40, but im not sure of the quality for that price (thats a big tap), and trust me when it comes to taps and die's you definitly want decent quality or else you will either A - break it off, and there is NO drill bit to drill it out. or B - it just becomes dull and cuts shallow threads.

a Place like PSC can hook you up with all inserts, joints and tube for around $150.

Or if you already can get tube, just get the ballistic parts.
 
i like the inserts idea,but EVERYTHING is still up in the air until i get back on my feet after they disect me, and get some time back in at work. This truck is being funded by the massive amount of overtime i get in the winter so with no overtime leaves alot less money for the truck. REGARDLESS the deadline on this truck is APRIL 1
 

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