94 B2300 issues

[csbuckn]

Hey ya'll
I recently got a 94 B2300 and now I'm having issues with a couple things. The truck has seen better days but I would like to keep it running as long as I can. The first issue is with the starting. The first time I start it, it will start then die within a couple seconds. I can be revving it up and it still dies, even at high RPMs. I start it the second time and it stays running just fine. The temp sensor does not work and I'm assuming it may be related to this. I have replaced the temp sensor and the gauge still doesnt work. I thought I read that the truck has two temp sensors but cant seem to find the info anymore. Any leads?

The second issue is with it slowing down at high RPMs. While driving, I can get up in higher RPMs and the truck will cut down. Its as if I take my foot off the gas pedal. If I had to guess, I would say the computer is cutting fuel supply at a certain load. I have racked my brain and cant come up with anything. I was going to go after the coil packs next. Is it possible that one could be bad and the truck still run? Also, I read a lot of people having trouble with the computer but read, also, that the computer issue doesnt effect my model. Any ideas about this one?

 

[Earl43P]

For the cold start, turn the key to Run, wait 2 sec as the fuel pump runs, then key Off. Repeat two more times, then crank the starter. Your fuel system is bleeding down pressure which could be the fuel pump checkvalve, filter, or a stuck open injector, leaky fitting, bad FPR, etc. If that "priming" method works for you, keep doing it. I do that with every fuel injected car, but usually twice is enough. Try it.

For the high rpm cutout, I suspect you may have jumped the timing belt a tooth or two, especially if you have AC. That's one of the reasons I always do an "orderly shut down", meaning radio off, lights off, heater control to Off, etc. Takes the load off and makes it less likely to jump time (2.3 has a belt and they stretch).

There are marks you can line up to check to see if it is off time, but you may have to pull the cover. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86987&highlight=timing+marks

If it has a lot of miles and the timing belt is original, you should replace it anyway.


Welcome to The Ranger Station!

 

[csbuckn]

Thanks for the welcome Earl, both of your suggestions sound right on. I'll try them. Its too bad I didnt think of the timing earlier as I just did the water pump and thermostat housing and was looking right at the belt. I dont have AC or power steering so it should be pretty easy to check. It has 225K miles on it but I'm the second owner.

Also, I posted some parts I needed in the WTB section but it didnt post. I need the passenger side turn signal lens assembly and pigtail if anybody has one. Thanks.

 

[csbuckn]

So I did what you suggested as far as turning the key a couple times and you were right, it started up and stayed running after priming three times. Next was the timing. With the crank lined up, the cam lined up also. The third pulley has a mark on it for timing but it didnt line up with anything. I couldnt think of anything else that needs to line up as far as timing and assume this mark was there because they used the same pulley for cam and oil pump(?). I'll go back out tonight to test the coils, would a bad coil cause the truck to run rough? Maybe the routing of the wires is wrong...

 

[csbuckn]

So I tested the coils and they both are working. I cant figure out this problem at all. Its still cutting out at higher rpm under load. EGR?

 

[csbuckn]

Anybody have any other ideas as to why its cutting out at higher RPMs? Could it be related to the miss I have? I have a feeling that its running off 3 cyls right now, think a plug isnt firing. If you hit the gas hard, it will go for about 3 seconds and then, all of a sudden, cut down. As if fuel is cut. Maybe EGR opening or something? Its almost unsafe to drive it right now.

 

[Earl43P]

I just can't see EGR causing that, but if you wish to rule it out....simply take the vacuum line off of the EGR valve itself and plug the line. Drive it and see if that matters. I think it won't have any effect.

Have you replaced the fuel filter yet?

Perhaps see if any of your local AP stores will rent you a fuel pressure gage, test it in their parking lot. Should change pressure when goosing the gas (google Fuel Pressure Regulator test). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-agmZ7IbQLw

If it feels like fuel starvation, replace the filter and do the pressure and FPR test. Otherwise, suspect an ignition problem, with the ICM being a likely bad actor. Many AP stores can test that for free.

 

[csbuckn]

I wanna say there was a TSB about the computer being bad and causing EGR related problems. When I google "B2300 stall at high RPMs", a lot of people come up with computer related issues and say that replacing the computer solved this issue. They also mention that they have a miss at idle which I do also. I grabbed a used one off ebay. I just got the truck but I wanna say the fuel filter is new. He replaced a lot of stuff chasing this problem and I dont want to do the same. I have been delaying the computer purchase because they are about 200 bucks but I bought one for 50 bucks so I'm wishing on a star about this one. But everything I read says to go for the computer.

 

[csbuckn]

So I got it. It finally threw a code, MAF sensor. Took the old one off to find an old silk worm type nest inside. replaced it with a junkyard one and I'm good now. Thanks for the help

 

[csbuckn]

No problem...? still dont have a working temp gauge, even with a new sensor. Any ideas?

 

[vnt2011]

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[mazda3000]

maybe your temp gauge its self is finished or bad wire/connection along the line .

 

[csbuckn]

Yea, maybe its the gauge. Can't you ground one of the wires to make the sensor move to max out?