'94 4.0 Ranger - Misses Under Load and at WOT

[pxbacher]

When I first bought this thing (used, maybe 7 years ago) it ran good but not great. It just didn't run as smoothly as I thought it should, and it seemed to bog a little when first starting from a standstill. I found out about the MAF issues here and went out and bought the security torx and pulled out the sensor part and it was pretty crudded up. Cleaned it and put it back in and it totally cleared up the mild roughness and bogging - it was like a new Ranger!

I'm curious to see what you find when you take yours apart... hope it works for you.

-Pete

 

[Z3CHYD]

When I first bought this thing (used, maybe 7 years ago) it ran good but not great. It just didn't run as smoothly as I thought it should, and it seemed to bog a little when first starting from a standstill. I found out about the MAF issues here and went out and bought the security torx and pulled out the sensor part and it was pretty crudded up. Cleaned it and put it back in and it totally cleared up the mild roughness and bogging - it was like a new Ranger!

I'm curious to see what you find when you take yours apart... hope it works for you.

-Pete

I hope it works too, I had to drive my dad up to hershey today to get his car and it was sputtering and missing even worse than yesterday, I'll pick up some maf cleaner on the way home and see what it does

 

[Z3CHYD]

Oh and also, when you cleaned your maf, did you use maf cleaner or just some basic cleaner? Lol I'm cheap and whatever works I'll buy

 

[pxbacher]

Oh and also, when you cleaned your maf, did you use maf cleaner or just some basic cleaner? Lol I'm cheap and whatever works I'll buy

I used electronic cleaner. The time before that I used brake cleaner, but they say you shouldn't use that (not sure why). The electronic cleaner does a pretty good job, and I'm sure there are other things I could use but I'd rather not experiment.

 

[Z3CHYD]

I used electronic cleaner. The time before that I used brake cleaner, but they say you shouldn't use that (not sure why). The electronic cleaner does a pretty good job, and I'm sure there are other things I could use but I'd rather not experiment.

Well guess what...I bought MAF cleaner($8 freaking bucks for one can) and low and behold....it didnt work. Now when I'm driving it, it's a continuous sputter, almost like your running on 5 cylinders(please I hope not). But tomorrow I'm dragging it's sorry ass to a Pep Boys and plugging it in to see if tells me anything...so if I need to buy something expensive...I know what I need. (If its something expensive I might try some "junkyard replacements" lol

 

[pxbacher]

...almost like your running on 5 cylinders...

You mean like this?

Took these when I replace the heads this past summer. It was running kinda rough at the time heh. I severely overheated it due to a blown freeze plug, and it had been going downhill ever since. I'd just kept postponing doing the job, then finally it started blowing white smoke big time, so the decision was made for me

I doubt you have anything like this going on since it was running better before...

-Pete

 

[pxbacher]

BTW, I dumped in some "Dry Gas" (plain old 91% isopropyl alcohol) last night. Haven't driven it yet - I'll let you know what happens...

 

[Z3CHYD]

Yup I took it to pep boys and they said there has to be a cel on t pull a code, so no easy way out for me of course.... But all of them are saying it's o2 sensors, so I'm guessing I'll suck it up and buy the damn things lol, and a thermstat, since it's never ran at normal temp, always cold, one guy I know said that with a bad thermostat, since your engine is alwas runnin cold the engine could be constantly running rich trying to warm up the engine, thus ruining o2 sensors....hmm could be I don't know but I'll replace it anyway, to damn cold to not have heat when I'm drivng

 

[Z3CHYD]

Did I mention last night I went through 30 pages trying to find others peoples same problem, alot of similar problems but no solution of course

 

[pxbacher]

The temp gauge always reads cold on these things (circa 94 Ranger/Explorer). When it's running right, needle should be right around the "o" in "Normal." So long as your heater blows hot, you're good. I'm sure I've seen a couple of threads here that talk about this. I replaced the therm on mine with the spec therm (I forget the exact temp) when I did the head job this summer, and the temp actually reads a little LOWER now!

 

[pxbacher]

Tell me about it. I've been trying to find a magic fix on this for the past 4 months! Might have to drive down to PBs and pick up an O2 sensor today...

 

[pxbacher]

...So what would happen if you just disconnect an O2 sensor (or two)? Might be worth seeing what happens. Disconnects are above, back behind the intake manifold - kinda a pain to get at, but should be doable without taking off the upper manifold...

 

[Z3CHYD]

The temp gauge always reads cold on these things (circa 94 Ranger/Explorer). When it's running right, needle should be right around the "o" in "Normal." So long as your heater blows hot, you're good. I'm sure I've seen a couple of threads here that talk about this. I replaced the therm on mine with the spec therm (I forget the exact temp) when I did the head job this summer, and the temp actually reads a little LOWER now!

Yea on mine it runs up to the "n" on normal, then it'll go ba k down when I'm driving, and the heat blows lukewarm...freezing right now lol, and if you'd unplug an o2 sensor it would run in an open loop, you'd get like 12 mpg too lol

 

[pxbacher]

Bought two O2 sensors, jacked up my truck, and just lay there under it cursing for 45 minutes at the old O2 sensors that won't come out. Even tried two of the special sockets and some PB Blaster. No joy.

 

[Nhaz]

Mix 50-50 ATF and acetone. They don't mix well but once you get it reasonable spray it on the threads and wait a hour.

This mix was posted on this board a few months ago. I tried it on my 18 year old seen every Canadian winter + salt ball joint bolts. They came lose without any trouble.