93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah, I removed the core support when I did my 5.0 swap. When we did dad’s, I didn’t and it wasn’t easy. Even with the core support out of the way and stuff stripped down it wasn’t super easy. Core support out and front clip stripped down definitely gives you an easier time though.

 

[scotts90ranger]

On my '00 I just took those nuts off that you're fighting, of course on removal of the engine I didn't have to touch the passenger side since the engine side bolts were broken off in the block... I don't remember the drivers side being all that hard to get to though... I do know that I only had room to install one of the nuts on the passenger side with the dang OBX headers, I can see the other nut but there's no getting any tools at it... that's still way more retention than it had with 0 bolts to the block...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Passenger side with headers is definitely no picnic. I think I had to use a long handled 12-point wrench from the front and crank the nut 1/12 a turn at a time. Drivers side wasn’t fun but wasn’t as bad with the whole front end stripped down.

Not sure how much it could help, but I have a few videos up on my YouTube from getting mine together

 

[Curious Hound]

Removed the fuel tank since it was up high on jack stands. Then finally pulled the engine.

always remember to pack grease and dirt around your oil filter so it won't back off unexpectedly.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Front of fuel tank covered in oil drippings from engine?

 

[Curious Hound]

Front of fuel tank covered in oil drippings from engine?

Not really sure. The oil pan is definitely leaky. But not much else. Rear transmission seal has been leaking like a bottomless bucket since I took the transfer case off. But there was no outer signs of that leak. It was contained in tje cavity between them. Front transmission seal may be leaky also. I haven't pulled the converter and looked there yet. Rear crank seal seems ok. But I have a new one to put on. It's wet underneath there. But the crank is dry. I think that is just more oil pan leakage down there. And, no signs of leakage from the valve covers, which makes me wonder if it really is a Ford 5.0l because I know that ALL Ford 5.0l and 302's leak from valve cover gaskets.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not really sure. The oil pan is definitely leaky. But not much else. Rear transmission seal has been leaking like a bottomless bucket since I took the transfer case off. But there was no outer signs of that leak. It was contained in tje cavity between them. Front transmission seal may be leaky also. I haven't pulled the converter and looked there yet. Rear crank seal seems ok. But I have a new one to put on. It's wet underneath there. But the crank is dry. I think that is just more oil pan leakage down there. And, no signs of leakage from the valve covers, which makes me wonder if it really is a Ford 5.0l because I know that ALL Ford 5.0l and 302's leak from valve cover gaskets.

How else is a guy supposed to know he needs to snug up the valve cover bolts if they don't start oozing oil onto the headers?

Swapping to aluminum valve covers and the blue fel-pro gaskets really nixed that problem though. My cheap chrome Edelbrock valve covers leaked like an old dodge.

 

[Curious Hound]

Swapping to aluminum valve covers and the blue fel-pro gaskets really nixed that problem though.

Not this time around. That's not too difficult to do later.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not this time around. That's not too difficult to do later.

I think you are kind of stuck with those covers. OE tin ones are probably better than aftermarket.

Mine were super thin/soft and bent very easily.

 

[ryan]

always remember to pack grease and dirt around your oil filter so it won't back off unexpectedly.

Gotta protect yourself against that fram filter

 

[Curious Hound]

Engine is on the stand and the truck has been moved to the back yard. I feel like that is a big milestone. Now I can work on the engine and transmission in the shop on rainy days.