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93 Ranger won't start


timfost85

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
47
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Hi all,

I feel like I'm about ready to take this truck to the salvage yard! It has been fighting me lately.

On the other hand, I have built quite the relationship with his truck. It starts hard often. Many times it is when it is a hot day and the sun has been beating down on it. It also doesn't like it when it's wet outside. I noticed when I turn the ignition on that the fuel pump kicks in but doesn't turn off after a couple seconds. The tone of the fuel pump doesn't seem to change, so I'm wondering if the fuel pump is having an issue, not being able to pressurize. I replaced it only three years ago or so.

Also, when I try to read the engine codes with the jumper wire, nothing happens. I don't know if this is related or something else that needs to be fixed.

Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I probably should remind you these are very old trucks were talking about, I just sold a 93 long bed and I now have a 94 supercab.

It's Probably time to invest in some tools and testing equipment unless you have a garage you can trust. I picked up a $30 code reader at AutoZone for OBD2
 
I probably should remind you these are very old trucks were talking about, I just sold a 93 long bed and I now have a 94 supercab.

It's Probably time to invest in some tools and testing equipment unless you have a garage you can trust. I picked up a $30 code reader at AutoZone for OBD2

I have an OBD2 reader, but my Ranger is OBD1... It has 243,000 miles. Should I invest more into the truck or buy newer?
 
Obd1 my bad, I can't tell you what to do with your money. With that kind of mileage it doesn't owe you anything!
I have an OBD2 reader, but my Ranger is OBD1... It has 243,000 miles. Should I invest more into the truck or buy newer?
 
Normally, the ecu grounds the fuel pump relay for ~2 seconds then ungrounds it in the key on position, so it’s not just constantly running. Once the rig is fired it (and it sees engine rpm) it regrounds the relay.

By the sounds of your no start/hard start it sounds to me like a leaking injector flooding out a cylinder. Next time cycle the key a few times to build of fuel pressure and then give it 100% throttle and see if it fires. If it does you have a leaky injector. Fuel injected vehicles have a clear flooded mode where during cranking and full throttle the ecu won’t fire the injectors, so if it fires up in that scenario you know you have an injector leaking.

Another thing you can do is hook a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the rail. Cycle the key to build pressure. It should hold 40 psi or so for days. If it doesn’t there’s a leak somewhere. (Injectors, fuel pressure regulator, or check valve in the fuel pump).

I would also change the fuel filter for good measure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It should hold 40 psi or so for days.

A returnless system should hold close to operating pressure for days. A return-type system like the OP's will bleed off much faster.

Usually from 40 down to 30 in an hour, and holds static at about 20 indefinitely after a day. It should hold enough volume to start quickly though. If it doesn't pressure will drop faster, and be down below 10 in 8 hours or less.

FWIW I have had my 4.0 run on 12 PSI fuel pressure. It did not run well, but it did run.
 
Going to post here since I am having a similar problem, and I wouldn't be surprised whatever fixes his ranger fixes mine.

93 4wd 4.0 auto


Symptoms:
-Truck won't start unless with starter fluid. *sometimes* a very hot engine will start.
-Truck runs fine, no misfire. Smooth idle, no strain under acceleration or up hills
-Truck dies during hard breaking at speed
-Truck stays running during hard breaking at idle or low speed. You can stand on the brake pedal and it won't die.
-Fuel pressure stays around 32psi, even while braking
-No noticeable vacuum leaks - no sucking noises or disconnected hoses
-No check engine light

Things done so far:
-Fuel pump replaced
-Fuel pressure regulator replaced
-Fuel filter replaced
-Coil pack replaced
-Spark plugs replaced a month ago
-MAF cleaned
-Air filter cleaned
-Idle Air control valve cleaned
-engine bay checked for vacuum leaks with the starter fluid method, I can smoke test it next week.
 
The problem with posting in someone else thread is that people think they have read it before and skip over it. And while the symptoms may be the same the solution might be very different. Don't confuse people. I suggest starting a new thread.
 

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