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93 Ranger that's been parked. Plans to be a daily


Joined
Oct 25, 2015
Messages
14
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Hey everyone, first post here. I've owned and worked on an old jeep grand cherokee for the past few years. But recently i was given and old 2wd 93 Ranger with the manual transmission and 3.0 engine. The truck has been parked and only started off and on over the past several years. The dash only shows 66k miles, but I'm not sure if it clocks miles correctly or not. There were a few known problems with it which I've already fixed or am in the process of fixing.

The goal is to make this truck a good daily driver, I don't plan to modify it beyond a few comforts. But I do want to make it as reliable as I can. So far I have changed all of the fluids including the rear axle and transmission. I researched and looked in the manual for the transmission and it called for mercon even though it's a standard transmission. So I went ahead and used mercon V (If anyone knows if that is correct or not let me know and I'll change it).

My main question that i have has to do with the clutch. I've never owned a vehicle with a standard transmission before, with that being the case I haven't ever had to mess with a clutch or anything of the sort. I've heard that you need to bleed the clutch, and I've researched it and have the basic idea of how to do it. However I cannot locate a bleeding valve of any sort on my truck. Am i blind or what?

Thanks in advance. Any advice welcome. I'll try posting a picture but I'm not sure of it will let me

76873812ba5409a90450fa26f8c510c4.jpg
 
Hey everyone, first post here. I've owned and worked on an old jeep grand cherokee for the past few years. But recently i was given and old 2wd 93 Ranger with the manual transmission and 3.0 engine. The truck has been parked and only started off and on over the past several years. The dash only shows 66k miles, but I'm not sure if it clocks miles correctly or not. There were a few known problems with it which I've already fixed or am in the process of fixing.

The goal is to make this truck a good daily driver, I don't plan to modify it beyond a few comforts. But I do want to make it as reliable as I can. So far I have changed all of the fluids including the rear axle and transmission. I researched and looked in the manual for the transmission and it called for mercon even though it's a standard transmission. So I went ahead and used mercon V (If anyone knows if that is correct or not let me know and I'll change it).

My main question that i have has to do with the clutch. I've never owned a vehicle with a standard transmission before, with that being the case I haven't ever had to mess with a clutch or anything of the sort. I've heard that you need to bleed the clutch, and I've researched it and have the basic idea of how to do it. However I cannot locate a bleeding valve of any sort on my truck. Am i blind or what?

Thanks in advance. Any advice welcome. I'll try posting a picture but I'm not sure of it will let me

76873812ba5409a90450fa26f8c510c4.jpg


bleeder for clutch slave is right above the line you will need an 8mm short 1/4 drive socket and a 1/4 drive ratchet keep resivior full or you will have to remove and invert the master to get it to bleed..
 
I have done this a billion times on my 98 2.5l dd truck I found the best method is to keep resivor full and u have to time it with the pedel pusher as he pushes down open the bleeder and he has to hold the pedal down untill you close the bleeder and let the pedal slam back up this pulls fluid down from the resivour. the bleeder should be as he said right by the line running in the trans on the driver side and it'll have a little rubber titty on it to keep shit out of it (not all do) but best of luck main point to keep in mind is don't let the pedal up untill bleeder is closed and dont run resivour dry. I had a leak in my system and would lose my clutch randomly all the time until I bled it out and it would come right back after PS. Wear a shirt u don't like cause brake fluid generally ran down my arm alot. :icon_thumby:
 
I have done this a billion times on my 98 2.5l dd truck I found the best method is to keep resivor full and u have to time it with the pedel pusher as he pushes down open the bleeder and he has to hold the pedal down untill you close the bleeder and let the pedal slam back up this pulls fluid down from the resivour. the bleeder should be as he said right by the line running in the trans on the driver side and it'll have a little rubber titty on it to keep shit out of it (not all do) but best of luck main point to keep in mind is don't let the pedal up untill bleeder is closed and dont run resivour dry. I had a leak in my system and would lose my clutch randomly all the time until I bled it out and it would come right back after PS. Wear a shirt u don't like cause brake fluid generally ran down my arm alot. :icon_thumby:
Hahaha great advice man I appreciate it

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
No prob man glad to help

Edit: post back up let us know if it worked
 
Last edited:
The '94 Rat's odometer only goes to 99999.9 miles. The Rat looks like there should a 3 in front of the 30 it shows. But the engine runs like it is only 30. K.:D
 
Mercon 5 is a bad choice in my opinion. Made the input bearing in my m5od get noisy. Switched bad to Mercon 3 and had less noise, but the damage was already done.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
 
Any advice welcome.

Welcome to TRS :icon_thumby:

I'd like to add that the fact it's been sitting for a long time, the carbon in the carbon canister might have gotten petrified & will be annoying/ hard to pump gas in-
 
Thanks for all the comments guys. I've had very little time to work on it recently as I work 6 days a week, plus its been raining almost non stop the past few weeks which has also slowed the process. I attempted to bleed the brakes but the rear nipples are frozen on, so I will likely have to replace all of the brakes before I can even test drive it.

Also it has sprung a coolant leak at the seal between the upper hose and the water pump, I'm not sure if this is a sign of a bad water pump or just a bad seal, has anyone had this particular leak before?

I'm finally off tomorrow so I plan to go up and work on it again, weather permitting. Anyone else have bad experience with mercon 5? Should I switch to something else?

And thanks for the welcome det! So far I've added high octane fuel but I still haven't actually driven it to a gas station yet so we'll see about that one later.


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Well get to fixin man I wanna see this thing movin!!
 
Alright y'all, I'm up here working on it today, is this the bleeder for the clutch?

Please excuse my ignorance I'm clueless with anything that has to do with a standard transmission

b55dea5434351f01be665d24b1266132.jpg


271c7ff98c2c341dde8fd3cace3a6c3c.jpg


Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
Well guys I'm afraid I may have messed up real bad. Before bleeding the clutch it felt fine, like a normal clutch. My buddy and I found the nipple that was above the line going into the trans (not the one pictured above) we attempted to bleed it the way posted on the forums. At first fluid shot out fine, I checked the reservoir and kept fluid topped off. After a few bleeds doing it proper, and now I have no clutch. The pedal goes all the way to the floor and feels extremely light. What did I do wrong? I'm worried that I seriously ****ed it up.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
could be that you got lots of air in the line by not getting it closed tight. One way is to fill the resevoir and then slightly open the bleeder and let it bleed on its own. If there is air in the line you will need to bleed the master, but you might also have developed a bad master cyl. Typical with these but they are cheap a PIA to replace however. The master sits at an angle and it traps air in the line junction. There are several ways to bleed including pulling everything apart and trying to install as a unit. If you decide to install a new master before installing the push rod to the pedal, fill the unit use a mighty vac to pull fluid thru the system then after getting some flow take the master cyl piston loose and let all the air out. Will require a pair of snap link pliers to remove the circlip to get out. send me a pm and Ill send you the process in more detail.
 
Okay great! Once I figure out how to send a pm I will. Thanks!

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