93 ranger crank no start after transmission swap

[370]

Ok so I have a 93 ranger 2.3/5 speed. Couple weeks ago the slave cylinder went bad and sick I didn't have 3rd gear and 5th gear made a wierd noise I tracked down a lower milage trans for my truck. I get everything in. And a new VSS because of course the old one broke. And the trcuk would crank and not start. I unplugged the vSS and the truck started. Plugged the VSS back in and everything was all good. Til it started the crank not start BS again. Got it started after a while and again it was all good. For about half a day and then sure enough crank no start again. Now at this point it's just crank no start all the time. Anyone have any ideas? I already swapped the VSS out for another one. And no change. I knew that was a long shot to begin with. Now I'm thinking either crank sensor or timing belt. And that fact that it started doing it right after a transmission swap is just an odd coincidence. I'm gonna put a timing belt in it regardless because it's got 198k and I don't know if anyone else along the way ever put one in it.

 

[fastpakr]

The timing belt isn't a bad idea as a maintenance step, but I think you're jumping the gun as far as troubleshooting this issue.

First, find out if it's fuel or spark.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Crank sensor times spark and fuel injectors for startup, so you are correct, if crank sensor is not sending it's timing pulse to ICM(ignition control module) on the front of the intake, then ICM can not send that timing to computer for it to start the injectors

Crank sensor----------ICM-----------computer

First thing I would do is to add fuel manually to the intake, spray gasoline or Starting Fluid into the intake then try to start
If it starts then crank sensor is OK, you have spark, if it then dies, Fuel is the problem, no pressure or no injector pulses from computer

If it doesn't start then no spark so could be crank sensor or ICM.

50/50 test, quick and easy way to see if spark or fuel is the issue

Only the Exhaust side coil and spark plugs are working when starter motor is active on the 2.3l engines, so just a heads up on that
Intake side starts working when RPMs are above 400, i.e. engine started, this is done to give a hotter spark, higher voltage, for cold starts.

ICMs on the 2.3ls were a known issue, but usually rough running not no start

As far as the transmission swap goes could be wiring related since you mentioned VSS issues, fuel pump wiring could be a problem.
On the Rangers the computer turns on the fuel pump for 2 seconds EACH TIME the key is turned on, the fuel pump is not all that quiet, you can hear it HUMMMM in the cab if you listen for it.
So turn key on and off as much as you need to and listen for the pump, if no pump noise then you found the problem, and time to start checking the wiring and voltages

 

[370]

Ok I guess I left a few things out. This truck has spark and fuel. But will not start. I've verified that the fuel pressure is within spec and I've verified that it has spark with a snap on spark tester. So it's got both spark and fuel. Which make this whole thing even more confusing. It doesn't have and wierd back firing or anything like that like it's out of time. But like I said I don't know when it had a timing belt so it's getting one.

 

[tomw]

To verify things... turn the crankshaft to TDC on the timing marks on the timing belt cover. Remove the rubber/plastic plug behind the upper hose, and check the cam timing triangle being aligned with the pointer. If not visible, turn the crankshaft 360, and check again.
If still not visible, you've found your problem. Dental problems with the timing belt, involving tooth loss likely.
If the cam timing is good, try touching the injectors while someone is cranking the engine over. They should have a pulse(tick) you can feel. If not, check for 12V on the injector wires with key ON. If no 12V check your ignition switch as an aged switch can literally fall apart. The harness puts tension on the plug, and finally fatigues the pot metal 'fingers' that hold it together. You can have a reprieve for a while by pinching it back together, but it will likely not last.
tom

 

[RonD]

Well fuel pressure is not fuel IN the cylinder, its "gas in the tank"
And spark on the wire, is NOT spark at the right time in the cylinder

Add fuel to the intake manually, easy and simple, 50/50 test
If it still doesn't fire up then you can start with Compression, valve timing

 

[370]

Ron. Fuel pressure means there's fuel "in the rail". Giving it a spray through the throttle body has no change what so ever with this truck not starting. As for your spark at the wire doesn't mean spark at the right time. I know that. The truck has fuel and spark. I'm not sure if your trying to be funny or your being a jerk but your not dealing with some stupid kid who's trying to fix his first car, or some guy who's got a few stanely wrenches and he's trying to figure out how to change his oil. While I'm not a professional mechanic I hold my own very well. My father however GM tech for 40 years. I myself have built plenty of things. Started building my own engines at 15. Do all my own work other than transmission rebuilds and body work. Have been for years. So I'm having a bit of trouble with my ranger. I come.and ask people who obviously love rangers. If I'm a burden to you or a waste of your time ronD you can simply not post in my thread.

I wonder about your fuel pressure means there's gas in the tank. Fuel level means there gas in the tank. Fuel pressure means there's proper fuel pressure at the injector. This is tested the same way I tested mine by professional mechanics the world over to verify the engine is getting fuel. But just to be on the safe side I tried the oh no not accurate way of "shooting stuff in the throttle body".

Can we get past the semantics and figure out what's wrong with my truck please

 

[RonD]

Wasn't trying to be funny or insulting

The 50/50 test is old school and the very first thing you should do on any engine that turns over with starter but doesn't start, gas or diesel

If you have added fuel to the intake and engine doesn't fire then you either don't have spark or don't have it at the right time(gas engine) or you don't have enough compression(gas or diesel)

Gasoline won't ignite with a spark unless it is a vapor, high enough compression heats it up enough to get at least 30% vapor in the cylinder which is minimum needed for cold starting.

Choke plate on carb engine simply caused more gasoline to be sucked in to get that 30% vapor level needed with cold engine and cold fuel
Computer controlled EFI can't use choke plate so when cold it adds more fuel for cold start.
By you adding more fuel manually to the intake you also take computer/engine temp issue out of the picture.
i.e. engine starts fine when warm, but no start when cold.

Any way no insult intended

Check compression


Fuel pressure means there is fuel in the system(gas in the tank), fuel injectors need to open to put that fuel into the engine, and it would be the second thing to check if 50/50 test got engine to start but it died as soon as fuel you added was used up.

If engine didn't start with 50/50 test then it would be a waste of time to check pressure at that time since spark or compression would be next thing to check.
Compression is black and white, mechanical, either good or bad, i.e. intermittent compression is very very rare, but can happen
So that would be my next test, if above 120psi(your 2.3l should be 160psi) then move to spark