93-97 and up leaf spring sas

[jeepxj2007]

What have some of you done to mount leaf springs to your 93 to 97 rangers? I read about people just using the coil buckets that are stock. Well here is my scenario. I am building a 1994 Ford Ranger Standard Cab, Long box, 4x4, 4.0, auto trans. For the rear I have a Disc Brake Ford 8.8 with 4.10's and limited slip, all set up ready to bolt into my ranger. I am going to run a narrow axle to match. I have a complete Dana 30 out of a YJ that needs nothing, it was originally set up for leafs. It is the correct gearing I need and works perfect. The only thing I would have to do is fab up shock mounts, and then relocate the spring mounts on top to soa the axle. I was planning on using YJ leafs, probably 4" leafs for the front of my ranger.

Now I priced it out, I can weld, very well. My Current TTB is a Dana 35, it is rusty as heck...i can take it to work and have it blasted. It needs new everything though. New Gears, Bearings, steering, pretty much anything that could wear out is past worn! Nothing that wears is saveable on this axle. This ranger will not be a daily driver but my woods play truck, nothing super hardcore, but tough enough to take some abuse. Also where the radius arms bolt to that crossmember has a huge piece of metal torn out where they bolt up due to one of the bushings being worn out. So I would probably have to come up with a new one of those. so here is why I am considering a dana 30.

I already have the axle, it needs nothing, it is ready to run, and correct gearing. I have experience with leaf spring fronts and am competent I can do this correctly, except the stupid ridges ford puts in the front are screwing me up. I was thinking of placing a piece of 2x6x1/4" flat under the front most body mount, and taking 3x3x1/4 and coming up so it wraps around the frame rail and notch it so it fits around the body mount. Weld that to my crossember and gusset it, weld in some crush sleeves in the frame and use 3 3/4" grade 8 bolts on each side to hold it on for a leaf spring hanger, would that be okay? I have no experience with a 4 link setup, a buddy said he could help me but some of his work is questionable, but he is the most experienced at it. I really dont want to stick with the Dana 35 due to the aftermarket world for the dana 30 compared to 35. I found a 4 link joint set for 250, most used e.b coils I can find for around 100, and then I would need a stick of D.O.M and I have no clue how much that runs for. All together it would be roughly the same as using a 4 link set up with 7" lift and an overall better performance.

Now back to the other hand. I can get steel for next to nothing through work, not D.O.M. but everything else I could get real cheap to make a strong leaf setup. I would weld all the brackets but make it so it was able to bolt to the frame, for the front I would run a sleeve inside to prevent from crushing the frame, and this would eliminate cracking from the bolts.

I want some advice or guidance what path I should take. I have considered finding a new dana 35 with the correct gearing, but wheeling with my daily driver I have found it to have a very weak steering setup, and it seems like I am always breaking tie rod ends.

 

[dangerranger83]

Well guys are going to give there opinions and they will give them. Some will say go to a narrowed D44. I'm putting a D30 under my truck too because I got it for nothing and my TTB needs money to put into it and will cost more to fix then putting a solid axle under it plus I was already wanting to do a SAS and so happens one landed in my lap. I'm doing because I can, thats my excuse for doing it.

As for using jeep leafs, they may not be enough for a ranger. A ranger weighs more in the front then a jeep. You could probably put an over load leaf or weave another into the leaf pack.

 

[Ozwynn]

your tie rod breaking problem can be fixed. you can build an inverted K-link as easy as building a 4 link set up for the D30 which would be marginal in strength...... specially under the heavier (than a YJ) Ranger.


if (and this is a big if) I was to SAS a TTB rig I would not use an axle smaller than a D44, prolly would use a D60 or an early FJ60/62 axle.

 

[slammer67]

hey, this sounds like a good project.
I 've done a leaf SAS on my 95 and might be able to help.
The stupid ridges in the front are called crumple zones and they do pose a problem. The method you described is similar to what I did - weld a plate to the bottom to make a flat surface. you can research full size tuck forums like fullsizebronco.com and others, you'll find lots of info on what to do with crumple zones.

here's a pic of my front setup

you can see where my hanger is in relation to the body mount. I'm using toyota front springs, which should be the same length as wrangler's (45" I believe) but I moved the front axle foreward about 2" so yours may be further back if you use the stock location. but if your going with substantially larger tires, I'd suggest moving it foreward some.

Others have used wrangler springs and find them too soft, my stock toy springs have a leaf installed and they are actually inverted at ride height. I'm only running 33's now but I'll probably use 3 or 4 inch toy lift springs when I go to a larger tire. Your 4" wrangler springs may be good but an extra leaf may be needed, a supercab ranger's alot heavier that a jeep.

here's a pic of the plate under the crumple zone, i probably should've plated the sides more.

here's the rear spring hanger

my front and rear hangers have two sets of holes to accomodate different spring lengths.

I went with the foreward shackle method, but a rear shackle usually will ride better I did the foreward shackle because it's I used the stock front driveshaft - a rear shackle setup with lift and good travel often requires a long splined driveshaft.

here's one with the shackle-i used the stock rear shackles and made longer ones for the rear.

I have since added gussets to strengthen the shackle hanger and tie it to the body mount better.

all that said, if you have the money, I say go for the four link, it's not that much more work and will ride better, I went leaf because of budget - I had the springs and I could get the metal cheap.

but good luck on the build.

 

[4x4junkie]

I would agree, much of the coil hardware is already there, it would only be a matter of welding some brackets or Ford C-wedges onto the axle for a set of radius arms to be able to run coils. You get a better ride this way, and won't run the chance of the tires hitting on the leaf springs, reducing your turning radius.

And yes, breaking TREs is pretty unusual. It's likely you have another issue under there that's either binding them up (steering geometry out of whack, etc.), or the tapered hole they mount into is worn or damaged.

 

[exotic_4x4]

i agree, your coil buckets are already there, it would save alot less work and probably money in the long run, my buddy SAS'd his 02 ranger Xcab, he actually took it to a frame shop and they indicated his new COIL BUCKETS on his 02 just like your 93-97, and it turned out beautifully! i regret not doing it to mine he was only charged 200$ to get his buckets drilled and bolted to his frame and it was perfectly aligned from one-side to the other..so his axle was perfectly straight..then added rad drop brackets, alot less guess work involved ..just my .02$

 

[NMB2]

i also agree stay with coil. I only went to leaf because it was easier for my particular setup. When i did the D30, i did swap on wedges and use ford radius arms.