2.3L ('83-'97) 93 5-speed Crank, No Start

[Chaoslost]

The single wire by the coils is just the radio noise capacitor, won't keep it from running...

Awesome. I had no clue what it was and trying to track it in the wiring diagrams was not proving easy.

 

[Chaoslost]

Found out today that the problem is the most intimidating (to me) problem to have... the timing.

I am stoked I got to use my fancy new fuel pressure gauge tester and spark tester. But alas.

When I peeled back the timing cover (to expose the little amount I could) I slid my fingers in there and the belt pulled right out to me like it was it's job. $#%*.

I've spent the rest of the afternoon figuring out how to remove the radiator and fan shroud and timing belt and all the fun stuff that is in the way of removing the cover and I'll pick up a new belt tonight (it's old and cracked anyway).

I've got backup coming out tomorrow as this intimidates the snot out of me.

 

[scotts90ranger]

It's not too bad, intimidating yes but I wouldn't stress about it... should only take a couple hours.

You don't have to take the radiator out, it would make it easier but it isn't necessary... While the serpentine belt is still on take the fan off with a 10mm wrench, 4 bolts on the water pump pulley gets it out of the way. From there get the serpentine belt out of the way. Now grab a 21 or 22mm socket (whatever fits on the big center crank bolt, I don't remember off the top of my head...) and a breaker bar on the socket, place it on the top of the drivers side frame rail or under the passenger side frame rail and bump the starter. Now grab the crank pulley with a strap wrench or maybe even your hands (or bump the starter to get it closer...) and line up the timing mark with the 0 for TDC. Get the crank bolt the rest of the way out if you haven't already and wiggle the crank pulley, if you're lucky it'll just come off, if not you'll have to convince it some which is honestly the hardest part sometimes.

I covered most of the rest of it last time, find a picture of the timing marks somewhere online.

Ok, I did a search and found THIS VIDEO that is someone that has no idea what they're doing but it shows the timing marks I "think", since it's an '89-90 so square tooth pulley not the '92 up round tooth... maybe look at THIS VIDEO. On the first video, you don't have to pull the crank sensor and you do not need a special tool for the tensioner... Last couple timing belts I've done I used a rip style claw hammer to compress the tensioner or a standard crow bar like the guy in the second video does...

After the belt is on, with both tensioner bolts loose turn the engine two turns clockwise with the crank bolt, stop it at TDC again then tighten both bolts, don't force the tensioner on any further.

 

[Chaoslost]

Took most of the day (and two different pullers), but my buddy and I finally managed to get the crankshaft pulley off. Not only had the timing belt slipped, but it got caught up down near the crank and was stuck. It was a fight and a half to get out. Everything in there was so gross. Mud caked on the oil pump pulley and old grease seemingly flung everywhere. Going to take a little time to get everything cleaned up. He suggested getting the front crank seal while we were there and had it open. Is there anything else that it wouldn't hurt for me to replace while we're in there? I'd hate to have to open this thing up again, lol.

 

[scotts90ranger]

That'll do it! Yeah, the crank pulley can be a jerk, sometimes the timing belt pulley on the crank can get stuck too, that one's hard since there isn't room for a puller and it's some type of hard steel that you can't drill...

Changing the cam seal might not be a bad idea either but note the camshaft is hollow and is sealed by the front bolt so you have to put some thread sealant on the bolt.

 

[Chaoslost]

That'll do it! Yeah, the crank pulley can be a jerk, sometimes the timing belt pulley on the crank can get stuck too, that one's hard since there isn't room for a puller and it's some type of hard steel that you can't drill...

Changing the cam seal might not be a bad idea either but note the camshaft is hollow and is sealed by the front bolt so you have to put some thread sealant on the bolt.

Would that be like plumbers tape? Or would threadlocker work so long as the whole thing is coated? That almost sounds like a bad idea... is there a special automotive sealer?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Thread tape doesn't work well on straight threads, it just pushes off and bunches up... THIS STUFF is the stuff to use, that's a tiny tube but it's fairly cheap in that size... it doesn't go bad like some things so grabbing the next bigger size might not be the end of the world if you do stuff like this every now and then...

 

[Chaoslost]

Thread tape doesn't work well on straight threads, it just pushes off and bunches up... THIS STUFF is the stuff to use, that's a tiny tube but it's fairly cheap in that size... it doesn't go bad like some things so grabbing the next bigger size might not be the end of the world if you do stuff like this every now and then...

Awesome. Thanks, man. I'll get some on order. It'll probably be a few days before I can get back to her but at least this way I can have it on hand.