..92 ranger 3.o with fuel pump issues.

[georgiaboy27]

Also I had been noticing the throttle under take off has been doing this sort of step acceleration thing and not smooth

 

[RonD]

That could be TFI/spark issue
When you accelerate TFI module gets a signal from computer on the SPOUT wire, its like "vacuum advance" on older distributors
This signal changes the TFI module's spark timing for the Richer fuel mix needed for acceleration, if spark timing doesn't change properly then hesitation and stumbling can occur

 

[georgiaboy27]

That could be TFI/spark issue
When you accelerate TFI module gets a signal from computer on the SPOUT wire, its like "vacuum advance" on older distributors
This signal changes the TFI module's spark timing for the Richer fuel mix needed for acceleration, if spark timing doesn't change properly then hesitation and stumbling can occur

I have also noticed rich burn from the exhaust as a matter of fact, I was thinking maybe the 02 needed changed, which I think I will do also...I do remember glancing at the schematics on here and seeing that "spout" on there... thanks again, I will change a few things and post up my results

 

[RonD]

Yes, SPOUT wire/signal needs to be disconnected to set Base Spark timing, same as you needed to unplug vacuum advance to set Base spark timing on older distributors
So there is a SPOUT Connector for that purpose, basically a Jumper that you pull out to set Base timing

O2s are the only sensors that wear out at specific times, 100k miles or 12 years
They use a chemical reaction to generate voltage when heated above 600degF
And they simply run out of that chemical
At end of life they produce less and less voltage, which means "lean" to the computer
0.1v = lean
0.9v = rich
So a false lean, and computer runs engine richer than it should which costs you lots of money over the years in wasted fuel until O2 finally sets a code when its "dead" or your MPG gets so bad you investigate why, lol

So always a good idea to change O2 sensor if its over 12 years old or over 100k miles since the last change

 

[georgiaboy27]

Yes, SPOUT wire/signal needs to be disconnected to set Base Spark timing, same as you needed to unplug vacuum advance to set Base spark timing on older distributors
So there is a SPOUT Connector for that purpose, basically a Jumper that you pull out to set Base timing

O2s are the only sensors that wear out at specific times, 100k miles or 12 years
They use a chemical reaction to generate voltage when heated above 600degF
And they simply run out of that chemical
At end of life they produce less and less voltage, which means "lean" to the computer
0.1v = lean
0.9v = rich
So a false lean, and computer runs engine richer than it should which costs you lots of money over the years in wasted fuel until O2 finally sets a code when its "dead" or your MPG gets so bad you investigate why, lol

So always a good idea to change O2 sensor if its over 12 years old or over 100k miles since the last change

thanks Ron, great information! I will definitely follow thru with these procedures...iginiton module is on the way, and o2 is next on the list

 

[DrWho42]

hello! welcome to the forums!

 

[georgiaboy27]

here is my update, so far i have changed the coil, ignition control module, fuel filter and still have no ignition, rotates but no spark and has fuel to the rail, the only thing I can figure next is the pickup in the distributor or maybe the capacitor went in the computer again....no clue, I connect the obd and its showing no codes...11 system pass, I checked grounds and the only one i am not sure about a connector by the battery that comes from the grounds on the battery...used a test light and put the clamp on the hot and completed the circuit to the plugs in the connector but only get a very dim light.....at my wits end as to why it went down again.

 

[georgiaboy27]

Okay....(UPDATE) tomorrow shall tell the tale, yesterday after work I decided to dive under the hood and disect the issue a little further...upon further investigation(trying to sound official and cool) I did what I should have done to begin with. I removed the distributor cap, twisted on the rotor button and shaft like I knew what I knew what I was doing (for the second time thinking all was well) But this time...the problem reared its ugly head like a sign from Heaven, as I gave it a jiggle..a nice piece of metal tab in broken burnt crusty plastic fell from behind the "reluctor wheel?" dont quote me on that...lol, anyhow I knew underneath lies a magnetic pickup of sorts and it didnt take long to figure out I had been sent the possible answer to the old girl taking a dirt nap in the middle of the busy road to the turnpike. As I got the wheel out I noticed the whole underneath was chewed to death and one of the tabs was bent in...why? I have no clue, so I proceeded to look up the part, price not bad but as I looked at the photo I had made the decision that by the looks of it that the distributor had to be taken apart to replace it. Then I said to myself if I tried to straighten that tab on the "reluctor wheel" what if I didnt get it perfect and it hit the new pickup on rotation? ruining another one...So I came up with the conclusion, the whole new replacement distributor is inexpensive and comes with everything including a new pickup, rotor button, cap and all...so here I am, picked up the part and I am going to install it in the morning and post the aftermath of the old part....now for the explanation of how this unit functions and I will be caught up...(a little), thanks to everyone who has been commenting and giving me all the help and information...I feel more and more that I may be driving this truck forever...

 

[georgiaboy27]

Rotary armature...lol, I just read more in 83-11 tech...lol, daddy learning

 

[georgiaboy27]

It lives again! ran good all the way home to where I could figure out how to set the timing and it runs good, it doe have some quirks now as far as the high idle but that too will be remedied I hope, going to change a few more sensors that are probably overdue and keep on rocking...carnage pics coming...I did discover that disassembly of the distributor is not worth it at all....buy the remanufactured distributor, you will thank me later....lol

Still trying to figure out how that bent to begin with...

 

[georgiaboy27]

only issue now is idle speed, It has an idle of around 2500 and at highway speed it will get a little stutter roughly a few minutes apart, but if you clutch and give the throttle a quick stab it will clear right up again...she is full of little quirks, I think I am going to change the tps sensor and iac and go from there, but it has not let me down again...a little tough to get it to 70 on the turnpike but hey it is a 3.0 after all...lol

 

[georgiaboy27]

also during cold starts it sounds like a model t...lol

 

[georgiaboy27]

So i pulled everything apart, new timing chain, water pump that was bad, and broke a bolt off in the block...trying to get bolt out proved to be a nitemare...i have replaced everything including the intake tube that had a hole in it...hence the idle problem solved. I even put a new oil pan gasket ...after everything was reassembled the bolt I repaired leaked....looks like it all has to come back aprt and either try to repair the block again or??? At the end of my happiness with this truck unfortunately....it may go on the chopping block