2.3L ('83-'97) 92 Ranger 2.3 (manual) cranks but no start


Precisions

5+ Year Member

Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Messages
4
Points
501
City
California
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
Hello 👋

Im working on a 92 Ranger 2.3. I had the whole engine out and got everything back together and back in the engine bay this month. Now that everything’s back in Im having some issues getting it started. The engine cranks but doesn’t start. Ive tried the 50/50 test resulting in the engine stumbling and almost starting with some starter fluid but never going all the way. I’ve been spraying some in and then running to key to start myself though.

I had the engine and the harness that connects near the driver side firewall and wheel well going to coils and injectors out. I had made good marks on all the connectors and have double checked them a couple times.

Here’s what I’ve noticed/done:

- I hear the pump priming and can confirm fuel is reaching the fuel rail. Maybe most notibly today I checked fuel pressure at the rail and Im able to reach 40 PSI once primed and during cranking. But once cranking stops or a few seconds after the pump stops priming the pressure rapidly drops, then drops slower around 20 psi, and will eventually hit zero. I didn’t get a chance to continue after I noticed this, but I feel like this would lead to a hard to start condition by itself rather than no start?

-My fuel pressure regulator is somewhat new. Pulling the vacuum line has no liquid gas but smells faintly of fuel.

-No fuel leaks detected anywhere around engine or down the lines to the tank

-Fuel pump is relatively new and replaced the original fuel pump

-I don’t have a noid light but I threw on a 194 bulb to some alligator clips and I seem to get a good pulse to the injectors. However, spark plugs come out completely dry

-I had tested the injectors prior to installing them and they didn’t seem to leak and worked when power was supplied.

-EEC KOEO Quick test comes back 111. All clear.

-the check engine light comes on when key is turned and goes off when key is turned all the way.

-timing marks are lined up. The crank pulley mark is at TC when the camshaft mark meets the diamond.

-compression reads around 180 down all cylinders

-I checked spark on the passenger side and saw power getting to the spark plugs. I checked the drivers side and saw no spark as expected.

Ive got a breakout box and tomorrow I was hoping to start taking some readings but now I’m looking at that fuel pressure decrease. Im figuring next I can check the fuel pressure regulator and possibly determine where the fuel is draining back to the tank to. Ive been away from wrenching for awhile and I’d love some additional support/ideas through getting it running. If it’s possible to summon Mr. RonD I’d be extremely grateful to work through something with you again.

Here’s Little Blu, the ‘92. Thank you!
 

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That pressure drop seems weird to me, but it should get enough fuel to fire at 20psi. I started my 4.0 3 times with the inertia switch tripped. I just wouldn't run but a second.
 
That pressure drop seems weird to me, but it should get enough fuel to fire at 20psi. I started my 4.0 3 times with the inertia switch tripped. I just wouldn't run but a second.
Thanks for that! I was pretty sure I’d be able to get it to go especially since pressure holds steady while cranking. Not sure why Im getting a pressure drop but at least that seems to indicate I should be able to get something to happen.

I think I’m taking a break for today but I figured I’d pull the injectors and check them out again. Not sure why Im not seeing fuel on the plugs but seeing pressure at the rail and a pulse at the injectors.

As far as the pressure drop, I’ll be able to check out the pressure regulator pretty easily but I’m having a hard time not blaming something in the fuel pump for not holding pressure
 
If there's any vacuum while cranking the regulator will drop pressure, not to half though...

If it helps troubleshooting as long as you are in neutral with the key on you can just jump the starter solenoid by the battery, either a wrench across the big terminals or pull off the small push on wire and jump power to that to jump the starter.
 
If there's any vacuum while cranking the regulator will drop pressure, not to half though...

If it helps troubleshooting as long as you are in neutral with the key on you can just jump the starter solenoid by the battery, either a wrench across the big terminals or pull off the small push on wire and jump power to that to jump the starter.
Yeah not entirely sure what’s going on there. At some point before everything got taken out I had checked fuel pressure and it was stable at around 40. I think it’s strange that it’ll come right up to pressure but then drop all the way back down after releasing the key.

Thanks for that! Didn’t even think of that. I’ll give that a go next time I try to get it to fire up again.
 
The only check valve in the fuel system is in the fuel pump and at this age they don't always hold pressure anymore.

You said you checked and all of the injectors released fuel when you jumped power across them? It almost sounds like they aren't opening the poppets in them...
 

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