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92' 2.3L rough start when cold


gjm4l

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
468
City
Jackson County, NC
Vehicle Year
2011
Transmission
Manual
Haven't been on here all summer cause no internet but now I'm back and already got a problem lol. My 92' Ranger 5-speed with a 2.3l and 155,000 miles has been acting up. On cold starts it fires right up but acts like it's dieseling. Just chugs and shutters for about 30 seconds and then just goes to idling like normal. Sometimes it will cut off but rarely. If I hold it to the floor for a second or two right after I start it it'll clear right up and run fine. Cranks right up after it's warm. For that matter if i crank it get it idling and cut it right back off. I can start it back and it goes right to idling. I would think it's a blown head gasket but I'm not losing coolant nor do I have smoke so I don't think there's water getting in the cylinders(oh and no water in oil either). It's been doing it off and on for the past few months but lately its been anytime the trucks not warm it does it. Anything typical I should start off with or any other ideas?
 
possibly IAC solenoid?,its up there by the throotle body,theres other things it could be to,check youre trouble codes.
 
You have a common problem.

It is probably losing its fuel pressure while sitting. Frequently, the fuel filter can cause this, but many times it is simply a bad check valve in the fuel pump (looks like the internal of a tire stem, part of the pump, in the tank).

To troubleshoot, try turning the key to Run (do not crank the starter), listen for the fuel pump to run for 2 seconds and shut off. Turn the key Off, then back to Run, listen to FP run, back to Off.

Then start it like normal.

If that works, start with a new fuel filter.

If that doesn't help, remove each spark plug and note which cylinder it came out of and examine its condition. If one fuel injector is seeping gas while the truck is off, its spark plug should look different from the others.

Injectors can be cleaned: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82
or simply replace it (~$80 each).

Lastly, replace the fuel pump. Remove the bed to do that (T55 bit(s), breaker bar, 3 screws on the filler neck, disconnect the taillights at the rear of the center of the bed, behind the bumper is a connector for just that purpose).

You can get a new fuel pump at RockAuto.com. Don't use the crappy fuel line they send with the pump. Buy the expensive fuel line at an AP store, about a $1/ft. You won't need much, ~2".

You can drive it as it is for a long time, just prime it as described before the first start of the day or as needed.
 
Good ideas thanks! Guess I shoulda mentioned what I did. It's not the fuel pump or filter I checked that it works (i.e. let it prime itself) and no change but from the sounds it's fine oh and new filter in december. I changed plugs and wires earlier this year well before the issue arose. But I do need to check the plugs again after sitting overnight to check for wet plugs ala leaking injector. I forgot about the IAC I should pull it off and see how clogged it is bet it's original. Heck sitting here and thinking about it when I bought the truck someone left the air filter box undone and I know it got dust in there so all that stuff could be gummed up. But I wanna pull everything from the filter box to the manifold off to clean it out so I don't just flush everything into the cylinders with with seafoam or something. Which adds up cause when I do that I wanna port match everything just cause I'll have it off lol. But those are great first steps. I'll pull plugs and check the IAC and report back. Oh as far as codes go there's no light during start up. The only time the light comes on is if I'm cruising and let off the gas in any gear it always comes on but the codes for that were all emissions related don't remember the codes now? Keep the ideas coming and I'm checking the stuff mentioned now. I'm comfortable driving it daily like I have been it's just annoying and I want it fixed lol. Oh and on a seperate note last night there was a storm here and a tree branch totally put a big dent in the top of my cab..... bummer
 
Good ideas thanks! Guess I shoulda mentioned what I did. It's not the fuel pump or filter I checked that it works (i.e. let it prime itself) and no change but from the sounds it's fine oh and new filter in december. I changed plugs and wires earlier this year well before the issue arose. But I do need to check the plugs again after sitting overnight to check for wet plugs ala leaking injector. I forgot about the IAC I should pull it off and see how clogged it is bet it's original. Heck sitting here and thinking about it when I bought the truck someone left the air filter box undone and I know it got dust in there so all that stuff could be gummed up. But I wanna pull everything from the filter box to the manifold off to clean it out so I don't just flush everything into the cylinders with with seafoam or something. Which adds up cause when I do that I wanna port match everything just cause I'll have it off lol. But those are great first steps. I'll pull plugs and check the IAC and report back. Oh as far as codes go there's no light during start up. The only time the light comes on is if I'm cruising and let off the gas in any gear it always comes on but the codes for that were all emissions related don't remember the codes now? Keep the ideas coming and I'm checking the stuff mentioned now. I'm comfortable driving it daily like I have been it's just annoying and I want it fixed lol. Oh and on a seperate note last night there was a storm here and a tree branch totally put a big dent in the top of my cab..... bummer

I understand you have a 92 but is there any chance you have a MAF in the air intake instead of a MAP senosr. if you have a MAF it is probably filthy

*clean the throttle body also. bad idle=dirty TB, MAF or IACV
 
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It has MAF. I cleaned it right when I bought the truck cause I knew it was dirty, I didn't get a chance to check the IAC but I'm gonna clean all that tomorrow and see what happens. thanks for the info
 
So taking it apart now. The maf wasn't dirty at all(surprise) The IAC isn't too dirty either(big surprise) but there's alot of oil that mixed with the dust that I knew was all in the intake so from the MAF back there's nearly 1/32 coating of oily dirt coating everything bet that ain't good. Since everything from the TB foward is off I really, really, really wanna take off the entire intake upper and lower off so I can clean it ALL out but here's the trick..... I don't really have cash for a lower intake to head gasket. For what I was doing I'm just using goo cause it doesn't see much in the way of loads. I know I should get the gasket but would it totally leak like a seive if I just used permatex black gasket maker on it?? I really really wanna clean this disgusting intake like now! quick answers would be very helpful
 
Never, ever and I repeat NEVER use RTV in place of a gasket. especially on an intake.
All you need is for that useless shit to get sucked in to the intake, down into the heads and clog up some thing or seize it up.
I wont even use it on an oil pan gasket. Garbage in a tube IMO.
Take it apart now if you wish, but save the money for the gaskets.

I quick fix for you may be spraying some carb cleaner through it while running keeping her idling high while you spray at the linkage under the hood.
But with that much caked on it may be an up hill battle.

Checked your plugs and wires lately ?
 
Got it. Took everything apart down to the lower intake and cleaned all the gummed up varnish, oil, dirt combo in it. Runs like a champ for now. The IAC wasn't too dirty but all the ports involved were gummed up and almost completely clogged. Duane I don't completely disagree with your statement about the hazards of goop but I've never had a problem with it in these types of uses. I wouldn't put it on an oil pan either lol there's just to much of a chance of the pan having a not perfectly flat surface so a gasket is way better. When I used it I don't make a bead (squishes it out inside the intake=no good)I put a little bit on my finger and spread it very thinly across the surface keeping it about 1/16ish of an inch away from the inside of the part (in this case the path of the air) before that I run a straight edge to make sure the part is flat so all it's gotta do for my usage is keep out giant air leaks. After posting on the urgent thread I decided against using it because of the risks involved and the advantages of the proper gasket in that use. I didn't wanna just spray something into the intake with it running cause I knew it was dirty and didn't wanna flush everything down into the cylinders and cause a premature rebuild situation lol. Thanks everybody for the help! We'll see how long the old girl goes before she decides she wants some more tlc.
 

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