91 ranger won't start

[alwaysFlOoReD]

1991 ranger 4.0l/5-spd/4x4 race truck
I'm having problems trouble shooting. The wiring diagrams in Chiltons are information overload. I have power to the battery side of the solenoid. No power to the little wire, traced the little red/blue wire back through a connector where it loops back on itself and turns pink and proceeds through the dash to the switch on the steering column. The key pushes a rod that moves the switch from key off through start. I removed the switch and activated it with a screwdriver and still no power to the small terminal on the solenoid. I can jump power from battery side to starter side of the solenoid and the starter turns over but no spark at plug. Can someone run through how the power runs through the wiring in a simple way, I'm lost here. I had the truck running before I r+r the motor/trans, so it may be as simple as reconnecting a wire.
Edit; more info. I checked the starter wiring at the starter, heavy gauge is connected and so is the light gauge. The fender solenoid has all the wires on one side except for the light gauge starter wire. The light gauge key/switch wire at the solenoid is not getting power. EDIS6 is plugged in. All fuses look good. The little timing plug is missing but that shouldn't make a difference? There is no water in the cooling system but it has fired up before like that. Fuel pump is on its own circuit. There is a master power cut-off between battery and solenoid.
Once I get this figured out I'll be cleaning out all the misc. unneeded wiring, that should make it easier to troubleshoot next time.
Thanks,

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I spent a few hours tracing wires tonight.I found the solenoid was bad but that isn't the problem. I tracked the light gauge wire, red/blue, from the solenoid back to a connector on the drivers side. From there it loops back on itself and back through the connector and turns pink!?!?! I had already been looking at the ignition switch on the steering column and noticed two pink wires coming from the same place. A little testing showed that those wires got battery voltage when the key is in the start position but I still don't get battery voltage at the solenoid. I finally figured out my clutch switch has two pink wires as well so I think I have narrowed the problem down to the clutch switch. Does anyone know how to re+re that switch? Could I jump the two pinks together without causing problems elsewhere? There is a total of six wires at the switch, what are the other four for?
Thanks,

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

So I scavenged another clutch switch from a 91 exploder and got the starter turning with the key. Unfortunately, I still have no spark. I'm checking for spark by using a spare spark-plug in the #2 wire. I swapped out the EDIS6 module, no spark. I swapped out the computer, no spark. I had swapped out the coil pack some time ago but didn't have time to swap it again. Any thing else I should look at?

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

All grounds are there and check out good. Swapped out eec, no spark. Swapped out coil pack, no spark.
Swapped out EDIS module, no spark. Swapped out crank position sensor, no spark. Next is to check for broken wiring unless there is something else simple I'm forgetting.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

So I'll take it that no news [responses to thread] is good news, as in; I must be going in the right direction. I sure hope so as this is getting frustrating, I still have no spark. I swapped out all the parts again between my 4.0 b-II and the ranger and my b-II is still running!?!? So it must be the wires between those parts. Now I need help to check the wires. Both my chiltons and haynes manuals are less than good help. I need someone to walk me through what I need to do. I bought a good quality dvom and have a vague idea of how to use it. In the chiltons flow chart is mentioned a 'break-out box', can I check the wiring with out one?
Hopefully someone can help.
Thanks,

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Looks like a break-out box would be the cats meow but to pricy [$180.00 + for used] for me atm.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Found my notes with codes readout;
51] ect sensor out of range indicated/ circuit open .....no fluid in rad system
63] throttle position circuit fault, below min. voltage
54] intake air charge temp. sensor circuit open
67] air cond. clutch ...........................................................n/a removed
57] nuetral pressure switch...................................................repaired
85] canister purge circuit failure..........................................n/a removed
95]fuel pump secondary fault..............................................n/a removed-on
own circuit
15] eec read only memory test failed


Any input?

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well, I got it running!!!! It seems that I didn't have a connector fully engaged before I taped it together. OOOOPPSS, kicking myself in the ass!!!! Oh well, at least I learned how the distributorless ignition system works.
Thanks for the suggestions,

Richard