91 2.3 2wd 5 spd Troubleshooting

[OffGridStone]

Wassup everyone....
Thanks in advance for responses etc.
Picked up a rust free 91 2.3 2wd 5 speed for next to nothing. I think the 74k on the odometer is accurate based on condition.
Previous owner said it started fine on starting fluid, but not without.
Have not been able to get it started since it was dropped off. No cel.
I have replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Fuel filter is next. After that, coolant temp sensor because it was cheap. I am not opposed to replacing every sensor, plug and wire as needed. Truck is too clean to let sit.
I am hoping the more knowledgeable can guide me and eliminate wasting time.
I am a reasonably capable amateur wrench, and have tools. Obd1 scanner on hand.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to the forum

1989-1994 2.3l Rangers have unique engines
Dual spark plug and timing belt with Hall Effect crank sensor
Also separate Spark system, doesn't need the Engine computer, that just does Fuel Injection
Different than the 1983-1988 and 1995-1997 2.3l

It will have a CEL(check engine light) on the dash
CEL should come on with key on, that means Computer has powered up, no CEL = no computer(and no fuel), but spark would still work, i.e. starts when fuel is added manually

When starter is activated(engine spins) CEL should go OFF, that means Crank sensor is working

You said "no cel"
So that may be why there is no fuel getting into engine
1991 can have a engine fuse box fuse for the computer, or a Fusible link
And there will be an EEC Relay in engine bay(EEC = computer)
When you turn on the key the EEC relay will close and send 12volts to the computer to turn it on, 12v comes from the fuse or fusible link

In 1991 the EEC relay, and fuel pump relay will be UNDER the engine bay fuse box
They look like this: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/relay-jpg.35945/
Green is fuel pump, Brown is EEC, black is AC WOT relay(if it has AC)

Drawing here: https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Larrycarley/2007-05-28_163853_Ford_fuelpump_relay.gif

The OBD1 connectors may also still be in place at the end of the engine fuse box, seen here: https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/VLADGMRU/2010-02-26_141152_Connector_location.png

You can pull these out to test fuel pump and if Computer is powering up, these are not "plugged in" to anything, thats just a place that holds them until needed

 

[OffGridStone]

Thx for the response RonD.
I may have oversimplified in my description. "No cel" was meant to indicate, when running, it was not illuminated.
It does appear, then go off after engine cranks.
I replaced the fuel relay under the main box. Did not ponder the Eec relay.
Additional clarity, upon cranking, cel does go off, and you can smell fuel.
This scenario prompted the coolant temp sensor buy.
Iac appears clean. Maf also cleaned.
Considering it was driven to me, skipped checking inertia switch.
Probably as close to up to date as I recall.

 

[RonD]

In 1991 only the exhaust side spark plugs and coil pack work when starting the engine, that's normal, although stupid, lol, Ford dropped that in 1993, all spark plugs fire when cranking

Does it still start, run and die with 50/50 test
Manually spray fuel into the intake

It was driven over to you?

After cranking pull out any spark plug thats easy to get out and check that the TIP is WET with fuel
Light that fuel with a match/lighter
If it doesn't burn bright and easily then "it ain't fuel", it may have been fuel but ain't fuel anymore, gasoline last 6 months at most in a vehicle gas tank, its not sealed tight enough to last longer

 

[OffGridStone]

Yep. Driven to me. 52 miles. We chatted. Cash=Title. I pulled it into my driveway.
Smooth idle. No stutter. Nothing. Parked.
Have not been able to start it since. Tries harder with starting fluid. Won't start. Cranks great. Fuel smell. More fuel smell w/ pedal. Almost turns over w/ petal but not quite.
When I put in the pump, the fuel looked and smelled fine. No visible particulate or flakes. No odd color.
Seemed like the Oe factory pump. No filter media remaining. Pondering where that went...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Maybe it's over-fueling? Pedal to the floor is Clear flooded engine procedure. It shouldn't even try to start....

 

[RobbieD]

Check the timing belt, just to rule it out. I think that you can pop out a rubber plug on the plastic cover, and get a good enough look in there to see if the belt is floppy.

 

[OffGridStone]

RobbieD I will check the timing belt later today. Thanks!
always FlOoReD... seems odd to me as well.

 

[RonD]

This has changed quite a bit since first post

It doesn't read like a fuel issue, "Previous owner said it started fine on starting fluid, but not without."
Reads like spark or compression issue
Marginal spark or compression can show itself on Cold Starts, but engine can run OK after its warm

I would test at least 2 cylinders(all 4 would be best) for compression, 150+ psi would be expected, just to take compression off the table, since its a good or bad mechanical function

For spark
Unplug fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay
Crank engine over a few times to drain the fuel from injectors
Then crank it again with gas pedal to the floor to dry out the cylinders
Now use Starting Fluid(ether) to see if engine will start, run and die
If it does then you have weak spark

Spark can only ignite gasoline Vapor, liquid gasoline will not ignite with a spark
Compression heats up gasoline to get more Vapor for ignition, lower compression = less Vapor for cold start
Liquid gasoline on spark plug tips will reduce spark

Starting Fluid is Ether, its a Vapor down to -30deg, and its flammable, which is why it is used to start cold engines in cold climates
And a weak spark can ignite it, as long as spark plugs are not coated with liquid gasoline