'90-'94 driveshaft into '85 truck

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have been scheming on how to get my 8.8 (out of a 1996 Explorer) to work in my 1985 Ranger. I have gathered that with a 90-94 4x4 std cab long box driveshaft it will work. BUT, I have been poking around to double check this and noticed that the front U-Joints on the driveshafts are different, the front one on mine being the blessed Spicer 1210 that has been making this whole thing so difficult, and the front being a 1310 on the newer shaft.

So do you have to go to a newer transfercase or can you just change the flange out for one off of a newer truck as well without too much of a hassle?

 

[MAKG]

You can change the transfer case flange. You'll probably have to grind down a 30mm socket to fit in there.

But I'm more than a bit surprised the driveshaft is the correct length. A longbox ought to have a MUCH longer wheelbase than an Exploder, and all that difference is in the driveshaft.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You can change the transfer case flange. You'll probably have to grind down a 30mm socket to fit in there.

But I'm more than a bit surprised the driveshaft is the correct length. A longbox ought to have a MUCH longer wheelbase than an Exploder, and all that difference is in the driveshaft.

My truck is a longbox, and I want to use a newer longbox driveshaft that has the bigger u-joints to fit the pinion flange on the Explorer axle. I don't even have (or want to have) an Explorer driveshaft.

 

[4x4junkie]

Unless you have the A4LD trans (or a swapped-in M5OD), the later driveshaft will be too short.

I think your only cheap option will be redrilling the 8.8" pinion flange to accept your smaller driveshaft (I'd pony up the $ and get a custom one made with 1310 joints at both ends, and swap your t-case yoke).

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I forgot to mention I do have the A4LD.

I would go with a custom one but eventually I would like to put a V-8 in the truck which would require another custom one. I would prefer to only have one made if I could, and just get a used one until then.

Having the flange drilled out does sound interesting though... I thought about it but I didn't know how it would come out balancewise.

 

[4x4junkie]

The flange is centered by the 2" pilot circle, redrilling it shouldn't be a problem (you'll need a M12-1.75 tap to cut new threads in the holes. Be careful of the pinion seal as you do this).

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The flange is centered by the 2" pilot circle, redrilling it shouldn't be a problem (you'll need a M12-1.75 tap to cut new threads in the holes. Be careful of the pinion seal as you do this).

Well that simplifies things. I am half tempted to stick a pinion seal in it while it is out, so it would be really easy to do it at that point with a drill press anyway.

 

[nidf88]

so that transfer case flange bolt is 30mm? i could never get any socket to fit down in there!

 

[Evan]

so that transfer case flange bolt is 30mm? i could never get any socket to fit down in there!

As MAKG said, you need to grind a socket down, so the walls are thinner. The clearance is pretty tight.

 

[rickcdewitt]

your best bet is to change the transfer case flange like MAKG said so you'll have the larger u joints,rather than drilling the axle flange.and it is pretty easy to ruin the crush sleeve that sets bearing preload if you over tighten the pinion nut.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

your best bet is to change the transfer case flange like MAKG said so you'll have the larger u joints,rather than drilling the axle flange.and it is pretty easy to ruin the crush sleeve that sets bearing preload if you over tighten the pinion nut.

It has a slight seep there already. Supposedly the axle has a 100k on it so I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to open it up and check the bearings and seals out while it is laying on the floor, rather than after I put it in the truck. My brother is Ford certified for axles, so I will let him make sure it all goes back together right. I am going to have it halfway tore apart to rebuilt the limited slip anyway.

I bet I could take a sawzall to my little u-joints and cut halfway thru them and my sad little 2.8 still couldn't hurt them. If I get a shaft made after the 289 install it will have the bigger joints for sure, but I really have no need to go through great lengths to get them at this point if I don't have to.

 

[4x4junkie]

As MAKG said, you need to grind a socket down, so the walls are thinner. The clearance is pretty tight.

The 30mm socket I bought at Home Depot (Husky) fits in there fine, I didn't have to grind on it at all.

 

[rickcdewitt]

I really have no need to go through great lengths to get them at this point if I don't have to.

haha taking off a nut to change a flange is great lengths?paying a shop to redrill your 8.8 flange seems like the greater length compared to grabbing a wrecking yard flange for the transfer case..i would go through that axle regardless though.

 

[metalmacguyver]

The 30mm socket I bought at Home Depot (Husky) fits in there fine, I didn't have to grind on it at all.

Same for the one that I got at Lowes.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

haha taking off a nut to change a flange is great lengths?paying a shop to redrill your 8.8 flange seems like the greater length compared to grabbing a wrecking yard flange for the transfer case..i would go through that axle regardless though.

It would be alot easier to just use a spare yoke off of my parts truck as a guide and my dad's drill press to drill four holes than to track down a fairly uncommon driveshaft that probably won't be in use in a few years anyway. 4x4 standard cab longbed Rangers are not really all that common to find around here. The flange is not biggie, but I can see tracking down a shaft being a problem.