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'89 Ranger refuses to Start.


JakeDangerRanger

New Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2011
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
It died pulling into my driveway a couple days ago so I figured I'd see if I could fix it.

It would start if you turn the key on 3-4 times and let the pump prime, then depress the pedal and it'd start. But as soon as you let off the gas, it dies.
I unhooked the fuel lines before and after the fuel filter and took the filter out, blew through it and was able to blow fine, so I took that as a "no clog." I then put the lines back on, tried starting up again same as before, and it still was the same. Asked a couple people about it, and they all said the fuel lines should "spray like gaisers" when taken off, and mine just slowly leaked out. So I replaced the fuel pump, hooked it back up exactly as I took it off, and tried to start her up. Fail. Wouldn't even start with my" Prime the pump, then floor it" technique. I unhooked the lines at fuel filter again, and it did in-fact spray rediculously and I wasn't too ready for it. Lol.

But now that I'm getting pressure, I don't see why it won't start again...Any ideas?
 
Is fuel able to come out of the injectors? in my old b2 I had almost the same problem. A couple of days later it ran and drove again. Then it would shut off and I got tired of it and sold it.
 
I haven't checked the injectors, I was trying to avoid so because they are a nuissance to get all 6 in at the same time.
 
Just for shits and giggles check to see if you have any codes stored. Here's the link on how to do the test with a little jumper wire (just scroll down to the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method): http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html . It would be a waste of time and $ tracking down fuel issues if it's a bad MAP sensor or something.
 
Is fuel able to come out of the injectors? in my old b2 I had almost the same problem. A couple of days later it ran and drove again. Then it would shut off and I got tired of it and sold it.

I like admire your commitment! You don't give up on anything. Seriously though, I don't understand why so many of us deal with these damn clunkers. A one-way trip to the scrap yard is the path of least resistance.
 
Just for shits and giggles check to see if you have any codes stored. Here's the link on how to do the test with a little jumper wire (just scroll down to the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method): http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html . It would be a waste of time and $ tracking down fuel issues if it's a bad MAP sensor or something.

Do I even need to do this? The check engine light has never been on, and I luckily have one of the computer diagnostics machines at my disposal, and it hasn't shown issues ever, and without the check engine light on now, it'd be a waste of time to do any checking like that wouldn't it?
 
Do I even need to do this? The check engine light has never been on, and I luckily have one of the computer diagnostics machines at my disposal, and it hasn't shown issues ever, and without the check engine light on now, it'd be a waste of time to do any checking like that wouldn't it?

No it wouldn't waste any time. I thought the exact same thing until some guys on this forum told me to check my codes. I had a bad TFI recently and probably wouldn't have discovered that if I didn't pull the codes. Remember, these things aren't as advanced as more modern vehicles with OBDII systems. Hell, most of them will throw the check engine light if you have a bad gas cap or a microscopic vacuum leak. There could be a piston sticking out of the side of the block on a ranger/bronco II with a 2.9 and the check engine light wouldn't even come on.
 
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