89 ranger 4x4. aka the rattlin ranger Build.. pic heavy

[Crashtest84]

at this point getting a new dash is sounding better mine is cracked anyway. Then it makes things later easy cause everything would just be for a 91 truck.

 

[kroussinoffroad]

changing out the dash is not that hard. all the wiring comes out right with the dash. there are a few connections on the drivers and passanger side kick panel and possiable a couple in the center.

did a 4.0 swap into a 84 bronco that was carb'd so it was alot more work. every bit of wiring in the truck has been swaped out. and had to come up with a custom waterproof mount for the computer since we were using a ranger harness and the bronco didnt have a good spot to mount it. as for the power windows i'm not too familiar with that aspect since every truck up until now has allways had manual's

anyways truck looks awsome keep up the good work.

 

[Crashtest84]

ok some good some bad I got the motor going but missing really bad. I have spark on all cylinders so im maybe thinking a fuel problem or timing. I didn't have my timing light where the truck is so I couldn't check it.

 

[Crashtest84]

Ok, here is a laugh for ya. So some of my problem was I put my 2.9ecm back in on the 4.0 harness. It started and ran on 3 cylinders, caused me a bald spot on my head but it started lol. So after swapping out for the 4.0ecm I still dont have fire on cylinders 1 and 2 possibly #4. I checked the header tubes with a infrared thermo cylinders 1,2 and 4 were the coldest but I may have fouled the plugs on those cylinders.

 

[Crashtest84]

forgot to add wires that I don't have hooked up yet first are wires from the 91 4.0 engine harness plugs on the drivers side fender

tan/yellow: only one I could find in the 91 diagram was between the ECM and EDIS
tan/red: have no idea but on a swap info I found this listed as a self test connector?
gray/red: not sure what this gray/red goes to
lt blue/yellow: neutral/clutch switch, not hooked up at this time

next are the last 8 pin connector on the 4.0 harness most I found go to the auto trans but mines 5speed so I shouldn't need them

Red: not sure
purple/yellow: convertor clutch solenoid (a/t)
orange/yellow: 3-4 shift solenoid (a/t)
lt blue/yellow: neutral/clutch switch (m/t)
gray/red: not sure but looks like there are a few gray/reds maybe a voltage wire?

Then last is the 2 pin that goes to the purge solenoid.
red: power
gray/yellow: goes to ecm

now wires in my 89 2.9 headlight harness first wires no mates yet or not used.

Tan/lt blue:3-4 shift solenoid (a/t)
pink/lt green: not listed on 2.9 diagram but shows as a test connector on the 4.0
dark green/yellow: coil resistor (2.9 only)
Red: not sure
white: to cruise control?
black/white:goes to multiple things
white/black:to clutch/ neutral switch.

The wires that are mated right now from the 2.9 to 4.0 are the color matched wires
there are 2 red/lt green: 12v power
orange/black: volt meter?
solid green or maybe a lt green: not listed but I think its for the brake switch.
To get the truck to crank with the key I took the red/lt blue and pinned it with the solid pink in the 2.9 harness

here is some of the pics I took first is the 2.9 and 4.0 harness's and some of the unknown to me wires.

Next is the 2.9 harness wires from the switch's on the trans and also the oil units from the 4.0 wht/red and wht/pink I think.

this one is the connectors on the inner fender that go down to the frame rail. I have changed nothing on them yet other then whats noted in the pic.

This is where im at right now with a really rough running motor. Im going to guess the white/black from the 2.9 goes to the Lt.blue/yellow on the 4.0. but most the other wires im not sure of yet. If anyone wants to help feel free to save me some time.

 

[Protowrxs]

I'll take a stab at a few of these but it's getting confusing...

Tan/Yellow should be the Tach output from the EDIS system - Should go to the Dark Green/Yellow to the cab
Tan/Red should be the Check Engine light output - Should go to the Pink/Light Green to the cab

now wires in my 89 2.9 headlight harness first wires no mates yet or not used.

Tan/lt blue:3-4 shift solenoid (a/t)
pink/lt green: not listed on 2.9 diagram but shows as a test connector on the 4.0
dark green/yellow: coil resistor (2.9 only)
Red: not sure
white: to cruise control?
black/white:goes to multiple things
white/black:to clutch/ neutral switch.

The wires that are mated right now from the 2.9 to 4.0 are the color matched wires
there are 2 red/lt green: 12v power
orange/black: volt meter?
solid green or maybe a lt green: not listed but I think its for the brake switch.
To get the truck to crank with the key I took the red/lt blue and pinned it with the solid pink in the 2.9 harness

Red is likely used to power the Auto tans shift and convertor solenoids
The White is the convertor lock up for autos
The Black/White and White/Black should loop back through the neutral switch on the trans
Solid green or Lt Green is indeed the Brake On Off input (BOO)
The Red/Lt are the power runs
The Orange black should be the HEGO power runs

Just as a note:

The black connector on the driver side down by the motor loops the R/LB to the Pink for a manual trans.
By hooking the pink to R/LB you did completed that loop which is needed one way or another for a manual.

I am pretty sure you have an automatic 91 wiring harness from those connectors and missing loop backs.

Ford changed the colors for the same function waaay too often it seems to me.

The gray connector up by the master cylinder should be able to be removed once you pull the old 2.9 computer harness.
I am replacing the black on by the master cylinder with one that has the R/LB, R/LB power, the O/BK HEGO, the BK/W clutch, DG/Y tach, the W/BK clutch, the Green BOO, and the Check Engine.

I am getting rid of the black one down close to the motor and moving functions over to the gray for low oil, neutral, etc myself.

You shouldn't have to mess with the other connectors going down the frame rail from what I've figured out. They have things like rear stop lights, tail lights, etc.

I would think what you need would be similar but I know we are comparing different years. Hope I'm not confusing things more??

 

[Crashtest84]

Well right now I have the oil pressure, water temp and volt gauges working all I really care about at this time. Yes the wire colors changing from yr to yr suck when all you have to work with is a Chilton or haynes. But my focus now is getting to motor running right. Like i said its running on 3 maybe 4 cylinders 1,2 and 4 are the coldest. The nice thing about having the jba headers is being able to kinda check like that. This weeks plans check fuel pressure, compression and timing and see where im at.

 

[Protowrxs]

...Like i said its running on 3 maybe 4 cylinders 1,2 and 4 are the coldest. The nice thing about having the jba headers is being able to kinda check like that.

Hmm.. that is odd that 1, 2 and 4 may not be heating up. Plugs are bank fired so 1 / 5 are fired at the same time and 3 / 4 and 2 / 6. I'd double check the plug wiring based on this http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/FiringOrder.html and the each plug and make sure they are firing. Not sure if you even pulled the plug wires off but I would double check the wiring just in case.

I checked and the EDIS uses the same pins on the computer as the older PIP did on 2.9 so I wouldn't think anything would have broken with the older computer in it.

Not sure how you adjust the timing on the EDIS but I would guess moving the crank trigger?

Not sure if it will do you any good now but attached is my notes on what happens between the gray/black connectors at the engine and the gray/black connectors at the master cylinder for an 89 2.9L. Kind of rough but helped me understand it.

I'm sure you'll get it working, just have to keep working it bit by bit.

 

[Crashtest84]

At this point im guessing it fouled the plugs when it was ran on the 2.9 ecm. I didn't do much other then just double check the plug wires to make sure they were right. It still has old plugs and wires so im going to get those this week. I did some research on the injector thing I read about. I have found nothing to support what I read so who knows. I would think maybe the maf sensor and injectors would be the ones that might not mix but thats a diff can of worms

On a side note I just realized your kinda local.

 

[Protowrxs]

Yeah the injector question answer seems to be you're "supposed to" change them but several report no problems. I'm NOT changing out mine at first and see how it works.

Right, the MAF and injectors need to be matched up or it will not be able to best keep the fuel flow right but it shouldn't make it run that rough.

Wow - I had no clue where you were either. I picked up my 93 Explorer rolling chassis and drivetrain in Sapulpa and we were up there a few weeks ago to pickup a 09 KX250F bike our son bought at Bixby. Just a couple hours away. I had in my mind you were way up north or something. Cool.

So figure it all out and you can come down and help swap mine.. lol - Just kidding.... Maybe.

I have the EVTM pages for an 89 Ranger, 90 Ranger, and 92 Explorer if you want any copies. I can scan and send no problem.

-Stephen

 

[Crashtest84]

AHHH its nice to have some 4.0 power. After alot of troubles and me over looking the fuel pressure. Figured out I had a bad FPR causing all the running problems.

 

[Protowrxs]

Good deal! - On to the rest of the fun now..

-Stephen

 

[Crashtest84]

Really now that its running and somewhat done this was a pretty easy swap wiring included. All may gauges seem to work right to. I need to find me a m5od or get put my np435 in there

 

[Crashtest84]

Its nice to say I cant call it the Rattling ranger anymore. All is well with the motor swap so far. But thought I would share some pics of the old 2.9 Im not sure where some of the metal I found in the oil pick-up came from

The thrust bearing was really bad to

It was also hitting the block and main caps keep in mind this was still a running motor

Ok last pic just the finished up wires and the 4.0

 

[Crashtest84]

I need a little help guys I have a vibration when taking off from a stop in first and a lil bit when I shift to 2nd. Nothing has really changed on the truck other then building the trans mount. Im pretty sure I got it back really close to the same height. It feels like a u-joint. but they are good and just greased. I did have the rear drive-shaft off along with the carrier bearing. Anyone have an idea?