89 ranger 4x4. aka the rattlin ranger Build.. pic heavy

[Crashtest84]

ok I have a few plugs that I don't know what they are first two come off the engine drivers side

these are all on the pass side. since the motor was already pulled from the truck I got the harness from I couldn't label them

Any help would be awesome.

 

[willindsay]

The 2 connectors on the right don't connect to anything accept maybe a plastic cover to keep dirt out. They are for diagnostic use.

 

[RangerBoy94]

Hows the cut and turned beams comming???

 

[chrwilkins30]

That first plug looks like the neutral safety sensor plug. It's the exact one that was on my transmission but that's just a guess

 

[Crashtest84]

Hows the cut and turned beams comming???

they are done just not on the truck yet I was going to wait till I get my new coils

 

[Crashtest84]

Back to work after a good study of all the 4.0 swap info on here.. wish me luck. I at least want to fire the motor.

 

[Crashtest84]

So is it just me but is 89 a bastard year or something. It seems like most wiring schematics skip the 89 a lot. Is there something I don't know? I did get a little bit done in the last two days. Just have to get the wiring done and all should be good.

What I ended up doing was used the 4.0 engine harness and trying to splice it in to the 89 headlight/body harness. Most of it has just been swapping pins in plugs to match wire colors. Now im to the point I have a few unknown wires to figure out.

 

[RangerSVT]

Project is looking great so far. When you took the 2.9l harness out, was there any plugs near the ecu? Having trouble getting info on that...
SVT

 

[Protowrxs]

I have wiring info for the 89 2.9 and believe I have figured out most of the re-wiring needed for a 92 Explorer Engine to 89 2.9 main harness if I can help. I haven't done the swap yet, just lots of review and planning but it all pretty much makes sense at this point.

The main 2.9 computer to headlight harness connectors are located in the drivers rear corner by the brake master cylinder - black and gray.

The black is C106 and pins as follows:
R/LG - Power in Run
R/LG - Power in Run
O/PK - HEGO Power
BK/W - To trans - neutral
X
X
R/LB - Power in Start
PK/LG - Check Engine Light

The gray is C108 and pins are as follows:
DG/Y - Tach
W/BK - Clutch (to black C116 on motor and on)
G - Brake On/Off (BOO)
R - Power (to gray C118 at motor not used on manual at least)
T/B - 3-4 Shift (to black C116 at motor not used on manual)
W - Convertor - (to black C116 on motor not used on manual)
X
X

My plans are to remove the Ranger C116 black at the motor as on the Explorer this is replaced by the big square plug and re-pin the C118 gray with the Explorer gray, and then re-replace the C106 and C108 into a single connector like the brown explorer connector at the brake master.

There is a connector for the A/C compressor control that is on the passenger side as well. That is your four pin connector in your last photo.

What are the wire colors on that five pin and the D connector? I do not remember seeing anything like that under the hood on my 89

Not sure if this helps or confuses things more...

BTW Been following your thread, nice work. Love the fender cuts - I'll be using yours as my example this spring. I just don't need that much out since I have 31's but your work made me decide that is the way to go.

Stephen

 

[Crashtest84]

Project is looking great so far. When you took the 2.9l harness out, was there any plugs near the ecu? Having trouble getting info on that...
SVT

Yes there was one plug that just pluged back in but then there is a 4 pin square plug that has a blk/bl, purple, gray/blk, and pink/org. thats in the 4.0 harness pink/org said VSS maybe blk/blue is on the truck just a diff connector right there. But the gray/ black not sure and the purple not sure

Protowrxs: most of that info helps a little and seems right I think I just down to a few things like the fuel pump and maybe the neutral or clutch switch. I hope lol. On your fender trimming use some fine line tape to mark it. Since your trimming for 31s I take it you do not have a lift. When I trimmed for 31s I just trimmed to the first bodyline on the fender flare-out then blended the front and rear curves back in. Thats where the tape comes in you can tape it step back and see if you like it. Then if your going to use a grinder with a thin cutoff wheel dont try and cut deep as it will force you to cut strait lines and not a nice curve.

 

[Protowrxs]

Pk/O and Gy/bk are the normal VSS colors - at least on the 92 wiring I have. the chassis side may be Gy/b on both pins though. That connector also has the fuel pump run and a ground in the engine harness on mine.

Do you know what year your engine harness is from?

Thanks for the fender tips. My rear fenders have the normal rust out above the lips so cutting will clean it up. Correct, no body lift or plans for one. Cutting looks better for me.

 

[Crashtest84]

yeah my harness is from a 91 ranger. I got the truck to fire tonight but did not run good at all. I read over on another site that the 93-94 injectors will not work with 90-92 computer. Not sure if that is my problem just yet as I still have a few wires im not to sure about " I really suck at wiring" But I had a really weird mishap. I had been working on the wiring with the radiator out of the truck just for the ease of slack in the harness. After I got it to fire I put the hoses and radiator in and installed the belt. I do not have a fan on the waterpump pulley " running electric " anyway so started the motor it ran for about 30sec and bang something flew off one was the belt the other was the water pump pulley off the pressed on shaft no idea how the heck it happen.

 

[Protowrxs]

Wow - that would have sucked if you were under the hood at the time. Sucks anyhow but still. Haven't heard of that happening before either. I still haven't taken my fan off my 4.0 - guess I'll have to get the "special tool" if can can't get the big nut to break loose - so I'm not sure what the front shaft stub looks like.

I've heard the 93-94 injector issue as well but also read about those using them without any issues so that is still a question for me too. It would be a bank fire vs sequential fire difference which I guess could be impedance changes BUT I've seen replacement part numbers listing 91-95 as the same replacement with different OEM numbers. ??

Since it's running you might try to pull the computer codes and see if it's complaining about anything... just an idea. And like everyone seems to say, check all the grounds as the computer really needs those ground references to read sensors and control things.

 

[kris97ranger]

you dont need a special tool to take a clutch fan off. just get a long extension/pipe and set it on the right hand side of the flat for the nut (assuming its reverse thread as mine as you should be able to read it on the fan shroud) and hit the pipe with a hammer it'll loosen the nut enough to spin it off.

the only reason they say u need is a fancy tool is it stops the motor from rolling over while you use a wrench. doing it with the hammer is like using an impact and the motor doesnt turn over

 

[Protowrxs]

Yeah, Unfortunately I already have the engine out and on a stand and all the other front drive pieces off. Didn't look that close initially and didn't realize the fan clutch wasn't part of the pulley until too late. Thought about just making my own tool out of some scrap with a couple holes to bolt onto the pulley which like you say appears that is all the tool is. That and a skinny big wrench. Was thinking about using one of the electric fan/shrouds I have too but still need the pulley off. :-/

Post up pics and color codes of the yet to be used wires and I'll see if I have anything that helps. I do have a 1990 evtm that may be pretty similar in codes and connectors.