89 Bronco II Clutch Line Just Busted! Help Please!

[ragajungle]

I just finished putting in new Radius Arm Bushings and let it off the jacks to take her for a spin - pushed in the clutch and PISS-Right to the Floor! It is leaking right on the frame rail between the slave and master-I can see it squirting on a section of line visible through the wheel well.



I have no idea what to do. Does the trans have to come out to change the line? Is the bleeder beneath the rubber grommet on the bell housing? Never had to deal with clutches before. Any help is appreciated!

-Mike

 

[ragajungle]

hands too fat too get in there...wish I had burger king guy hands

Okay some things I forgot to include.
> I do no how to bleed the clutch, but I understand it is a PITA!
>What I don't understand is how to disconnect the old line.
>I know it has a WHITE retaining ring that needs to be compressed - there is a video on youtube explaining.
>BUT I don't know where this is at?
>Does the trans come out to do this or am I supposed to smush my fat hands into that tiny hole beneath the rubber grommet?

ARRG!

 

[90bronco2]

You wont have to take the transmission out, the line is called a hydraulic clutch line that cost me 65 dollars today. That line will have a fitting that will slide onto you slave cylinder in your transmission. If you look now you'll find a white collar around that fitting, you'll need to push that collar into the fitting to release the spring lock inside, it takes a while and you'll need to be careful because that collar likes to bend. When I was doing mine someone told me they used two 1/8 inch screwdrivers to push it in. I had to do a clutch job so i just replaced the whole slave itself. I've also been told that when you replace this line its best to replace that slave because they like to leak a couple weeks after only replacing this line, Idk if this is true or not, but in that case you would have to take the trans out. The slave cylinder cost me 68 dollars today. I can post pics if you need I have my trans sitting on the floor right now with everything nice and in the open. Have fun

 

[adsm08]

90 is kinda right.

He is right about the line, and he is right about how to get it disconnected from the slave.

He isn't quite as right about the slave starting to leak. The slaves in our transmissions don't like being reused. If you take the trans out and put it back in for any reason, replace the slave or it will start leaking soon afterward. If you just have to replace the hydraulic line the slave should be OK until you need a clutch.

Your trans can stay in. The line would have to be unhooked to remove the trans anyway. You are looking for the white collar right above the bleeder, where the black line runs into the side of the bell.

 

[ragajungle]

90Bronco2- If you have pics (or willing to get pics) of the bleeder and line that would be great! I appreciate the info. When you bought the line today did it come with the line tool? The one at Advance Auto (online) shows it coming with one...

Adsm08- Thanks for always being here for quick advice ) Is it best to pull the master cylinder and line assy to bench bleed - or is it doable IN the truck? I have heard it is a pain while IN.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[adsm08]

Adsm08- Thanks for always being here for quick advice ) Is it best to pull the master cylinder and line assy to bench bleed - or is it doable IN the truck? I have heard it is a pain while IN.

What would you guys do if I ever got a life?

These things are a pain to bleed in or out of the truck, mostly because there is a check valve on the end of the line to keep fluid from running out and air from getting in during a clutch job.

Honestly, the best thing I can think of is if you can get the fitting off an old slave and plug it in to hold the valve open. Barring that, find some way to push the valve open and bleed it similarly to brakes. Hold it open, have someone push the pedal, then let the valve close, and have them release the pedal.

You might also want to try a gravity or vac bleeding. Vac is my preferred method because you only need one person and it's fast (keep in mind, I'm a flat-rater, the faster I can do the job correctly, the more money I make). Spring for the $25 mighty-vac set and then vac bleed it.

Fill the reservior, leave the cap off, jam a tip into the bleeder screw, pump up some vac and see if it holds, if it holds or only bleeds slowly open up the bleeder, and keep working the pump until you get a steady trickle of brake fluid through the line, then clamp it off and test the pedal.


Also, taking the master out of the truck will make replacing the line a lot easier. I've done it both ways after having a master blow out and leave me stuck halfway through a 100 mile trip with minimal tools. Take it out of the truck. The trouble it saves is by far worth the little bit of hassle.