88 ranger sas question

[hr8882]

I need input from builders.
I have a stock 1988 4x4 ranger 2.9 I am considering a SAS for no other reason but I'm
fed up with alignment issues. The TTB was probably a good idea on paper but it's a crap
design. This is my day to day truck 99% city and short state route jogs. As I have reviewed alot of builds on this site The one I haven't seen is a SAS without being lifted.
Question : Can It be done to retain the stock body height Am don't want to research
a project without asking the ones that would know. You Guys!
Any input I would be greatful
HR

 

[dangerranger83]

There has to be lift so that the pumpkin can clear the engine cross member but also so you can get more then 2 inches of uptravel too, since thats about all TTB has anyways, hince why it is so stiff of a ride.

You can get leveling coils for it, put washers under the coils, etc...

There will be more guys to chime in on this.

 

[legoms013]

With a SAS you need a minimum of about 6" of lift to clear the cross member....keeping it stock height with a SAS would be more work than its worth, but I suppose it is possible (I have never seen it done on a Ranger).

What is wrong with the TTB right now that convinces you that you need a SAS? Did you read through some of the sticky threads about common misconceptions, fixes and general how-to tech that is here and free to anyone and has solved countless problems and sway countless users into keep their TTB (usually until they require a suspension that can handle rock gardens)?

What seems to be the problem(s)? We can help you out and you can make the best decision that works for you (either staying TTB or going SAS).

Just as an FYI, SAS is not cheap and certainly much more expensive than replacing a few parts on your TTB and then getting an alignment.

Let me, us know so we can help you out

 

[hr8882]

Just tired of alignment issues always camber. I ve paid for enough tires and aligntments to pay for 10 sas's

 

[legoms013]

Go to a different alignment shop. That one is obviously screwing you over.

When setup properly, TTB doesn't wear tires any more or different than any other suspension type.

If you go to a different place for your alignments, I'm positive you can get it dialed in for 10x cheaper than a SAS and salvage your current tires. Go to a place that offers a 1 time, lifetime alignment and with people that actually know how to align the TTB.

If you are dead set on a SAS, start researching a D30 swap or a D44 (either FW or narrowed) out of a full size Ford/Bronco or Early Bronco.

Might I ask, what kind of camber problem are you having?

Negative or positive camber?

Negative is STUPID EASY to fix.

Positive may require different coils or new drop brackets all-together (unlikely since you said it was stock).

 

[hr8882]

way positive. I did a rear springs and shackles past summer [rust] Now it apparent my
fronts are sagging because the rear is alot higher now. than the front. but heck new
front springs is only going to make the camber worse. right now as it sit with the old springs it's 3 degrees positive. [YEAH] Anyway if I were to do a sas I was thinking about a d30 out of a 90 or so cherokee. I only use 4 wheel for bad weather in New Jersey.
Or which front axle do you think is more available. still have to do more research.
I noticed on this site a lot of different swaps.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah something is screwed up for sure.
I would 2nd what Legoms said, find another alignment shop that knows what it is they're doing, as it's obvious the place you've been going to isn't able to figure it out.
There's no excuse for having to put up with ruined tires on these things.

If you're handy with a wrench, you might even try aligning it yourself (aligning wheels is not rocket science in spite of what some might want you to believe, it's very possible to do it at home using simple tools. See the lower half of this page for some info). At the very least, you can better arm yourself with info if you have to duke it out with your alignment guy.

A SAS is way overkill just for winter driving though.

 

[legoms013]

If actual coil spring height and ride height seems about right, but you still have positive or negative camber then that is characteristic of a severely whacked out toe setting. IIRC a bad toe out nets negative camber, and a bad toe in setting equates to positive camber (when driving forward, and opposite for going in reverse).

One way to check to see if all you need is a change in toe settings, is to drive forward 6' (note the camber of the tires) and then drive in reverse for about 6' (and again note the camber of the tires). If the camber between both situations is opposite of each other, then you know your toe setting needs to be set and currently it is jacked.

Comprende?

Then do the alignemnt yourself or find a different shop that is knowledgable about TTB. I'm willing to bet money all you have is a dumb technician that doesn't know his crap about the TTB and is doing the alignment steps out of sequence, and in all reality all you have is a bad toe setting. This will wear tires funny for sure.

 

[hr8882]

On the page you refered me to about halfway down is a photo showing a yellow line
at the centerline of the spindles and a red line at the TTB pivot centerline the photo shows the spindle centerline should be 1 inch below the TTB pivot centerline. Well
my truck is just the opposite.Which one would conclude that the front springs are sagging. Right? Yet my drag link is perfectly in line across to the pitman. weird huh!
I think I going to give doing my own alignment a shot. after I install new front springs
I know after 200,000+ miles these front springs are shot.
I'm good with geometery plus being a machinist I've always felt doing my own alignment
is do'able it's just need to take the time and do it
Many thanks i'll try this avenue and and see. I maybe back at some point to do a
SAS just because I like tough challenges who knows

 

[hr8882]

Hey thanks
Today I did as you suggested rolled forward then backward. It is doing exactly as you
said. It went from about 3 degrees positive forward to about 3 degrees negative. I said
to myself Son of a "B" how about that! You hit it right on.
One more question. In the technical library under alignment the is a small chart about
halfway down the page that states the ride height for my year is 4-4 1/8 inches
but it doesn't state where the measurement is taken. Is it at the bottom of the bumpstop to the top of the axle housing.