88 Ranger rear brakes not working

[88 XLT Ranger]

Need quick help please

I got an 88 Ranger 4x4 I had the driver side rear brake fail well it came apart in the drum. I drove home 45 miles the front brakes work fine I changed the driver side brake cylinder and shoes and springs. I went to bleed the rear brakes and after pumping them up over and over went to the bleeders nothing comes out but a few drips each time. I did this for 30min still nothing works I jacked it up spun the rear tire with my hand hit the brake it held for a second than back to the same thing. I herd there was a valve on the frame driver side forward of the rear end that can get clogged? I looked there is no valve only the hard line that goes behind the gas tank

I had it smog checked today the mechanic said its the brake cylinder? I herd people changing them still the same help please. I hate to spend money I don't have on a part that wont fix it

 

[Spott]

You can "gravity bleed" the brakes. Fill up the brake reservoir, and open the bleed screw on that new cylinder. Turn on the radio and get comfy. Every few minutes, go check the brake reservoir, make sure it doesn't run low. Once you get brake oil dripping steadily out of the bleed screw, you're getting better.

Then, open all 4 bleed screws, and let them all drip for a few minutes, just to make sure you get all the air out. Make sure you keep the reservoir full. Then, close each screw, a few minutes apart, starting with the one farthest from the brake master cylinder.

That might do it. If it doesn't solve your problem entirely, it will at least get you a lot closer to a set of properly bled brakes.

Spott

 

[Finnigan]

Are you bleeding these by yourself? you should have someone pushing on the brake pedal while you open the bleeder. If you don't have someone to do that you can get a bleeder kit (or make one) to do it by yourself.

What procedure are you following ecactly?

Also, did you adjust the rear shoes before you started bleeding them?

PS, on my '86 2WD there is a "T" connection in the brake line right on top of the rear differential. I'm not sure if this could be what you are looking for or if it is the same on a 4WD.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Are you bleeding these by yourself? you should have someone pushing on the brake pedal while you open the bleeder. If you don't have someone to do that you can get a bleeder kit (or make one) to do it by yourself.

What procedure are you following ecactly?

Also, did you adjust the rear shoes before you started bleeding them?

PS, on my '86 2WD there is a "T" connection in the brake line right on top of the rear differential. I'm not sure if this could be what you are looking for or if it is the same on a 4WD.

Thanks for the help both of you

I am bleeding them myself I pump the brakes put a 2x4 from the seat bracket to the brake peddle. I did this like 10 times each side each time I get a few drops coming out. If I start it up put in gear with a jack the tire spins I hit the brake it stops than a few seconds it starts spinning. I did replace both sides new shoes and adjusted the brakes with the star wheels. Will the gravity bleed work if I park on a slop down in the back?

I herd the RABS the valve gets clogged I cant even find it on my 88 Ranger if its trying to stop the wheels the brake master cylinder should be ok just a bleeding issue?

 

[Surrey]

I love double posts!...

As I said in the other one, first verify whether its the cylinder or not. Then start working your way backwards along the line to verify where the problem is. Chase it all the way back to the master cylinder if you have to.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

I love double posts!...

As I said in the other one, first verify whether its the cylinder or not. Then start working your way backwards along the line to verify where the problem is. Chase it all the way back to the master cylinder if you have to.

Thanks

I will try that sorry for two of the same posts I posted in brakes than seen this quick help forum. I appreciate your time with my question and the great help with my issue I hope to find the problem

 

[Finnigan]

I don't think your 2x4 method is going to work. Get a buddy to sit in the drivers seat. you lay under the truck. Tell him to pump the brake a couple of times and hold it down. You open the bleeder and he should push the pedal to the floor and HOLD IT THERE (if he releases it with the bleeder open it will suck air in.) you close the bleeder and then he pumps it up again. Repeat until clean fluid and no air bubbles are squirting out.

By yourself you can buy a bleeder kit, or make one out of a coffee can or mason jar and some hose small enough to fit snugly on the bleeder (vacuum hose or fishtank air hose, etc. Best if it is clear so you can see the fluid)

put your wrench on the bleeder, then the hose. run the hose from the bleeder to the can or jar. start with some fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder and pump the brake a few times. Close it then pump it up. Repeat until the brakes no longer feel squishy or fade. If you have a clear hose, repeat until you see no more bubbles in the hose.

Actually it would be best to repeat it until you see clean fluid in the hose with no bubbles.

Remember to top off the resivoir regularly so it doesn't go below the fill line, and ALWAYS make sure the cap is on the resivoir before you push the pedal.

PS. Are you sure you have ABS? I don't on my '86 that I know of. Just regular old power brakes.

 

[Andy D]

I used the 2 person method for ages, cause that was the way I was taught to do it. Gravity bleed gives a better pedal. I discovered it when I was replacing the rear hard lines on one of my cars. In order not to mess up the ABS, I kept topping off the MC . I would tighten the couplings enough so they didn't drip . Then the hose so they didn't leak at the wheels. I gravity bled the Rat and first try to bleed, couldn't get a pedal I started tracing brake lines until I found the drip. Tightened. Second try still no pedal. Same thing, further back. Rinse and repeat 3 or 4 times right to the wheels. I put the clear hose on the bleeder into an empty hot sauce bottle . 2 bux worth of clear tubing , 4 oz of brake fluid for an air lock. Was on the second qt of it by now. No bubbles.

I spent some time comparing dry boiling points on the BF And got the highest I could find at Autozone. It says DOT 3-4 on it.

 

[Surrey]

Andy, what do you mean by gravity bleed? I know about the previously mentioned method everyone seems to use, and also using a vacuum system to do it... But can you elaborate on gravity bleeding?

 

[Spott]

I herd the RABS the valve gets clogged I cant even find it on my 88 Ranger if its trying to stop the wheels the brake master cylinder should be ok just a bleeding issue?

In '88, the Rangers did not have RABS, only the Bronco II's. At least, that's what my manuals tell me, and I could never find anything ABS-like on my bastard '88/'87/'86 hybrid Franken-ranger.

Spott

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Thank you all

I appreciate all this info and help I got a friend to help pump the brake while I bleed them. Another question? does the truck need to be running with power brakes as I bleed them? or can it be done without the truck running? I will re-check the adjustment on both brakes before starting

 

[Mark_88]

You don't need the truck running.

As mentioned, if you are still not getting anything out of the rear cylinders you may need to disconnect the lines from the T on the axle and pump the pedal to see if you are getting fluid there...if not...move back to the flex line connector and pump the pedal...if still no fluid then you may have a line connector somewhere between there and the MC. If that is the problem go out and get a new one and maybe consider replacing everything from the MC back.

It really is only one line but some people buy short sections and connect them with various and assorted connectors that may or may not work.

I found a line connector that is almost fool proof as long as the flares are done right. You can even replace short sections of broken or rusted line with these puppies...they simply have two threaded female connectors that accept the male ones on the end of the prefabbed brake lines...or do it the hard way and flare and add the connectors as needed.

I will see if I can get a pic of the connector for you if needed...probably have a spare kicking around because they are so handy to have!

Edit: top and side views...shows what you need to know!

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums...13/Brakelineconnectorsideview_zps21e7e7a3.jpg

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums...013/Brakelineconnectortopview_zps80706090.jpg

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

You don't need the truck running.

As mentioned, if you are still not getting anything out of the rear cylinders you may need to disconnect the lines from the T on the axle and pump the pedal to see if you are getting fluid there...if not...move back to the flex line connector and pump the pedal...if still no fluid then you may have a line connector somewhere between there and the MC. If that is the problem go out and get a new one and maybe consider replacing everything from the MC back.

It really is only one line but some people buy short sections and connect them with various and assorted connectors that may or may not work.

I found a line connector that is almost fool proof as long as the flares are done right. You can even replace short sections of broken or rusted line with these puppies...they simply have two threaded female connectors that accept the male ones on the end of the prefabbed brake lines...or do it the hard way and flare and add the connectors as needed.

I will see if I can get a pic of the connector for you if needed...probably have a spare kicking around because they are so handy to have!

Thank you

I hope with a friend we can get the brakes bled if not will do like you say check everything from the MC. I think my 2x4 way each time I pump it and shove the board in by the time I get back to the bleeder the pressure has backed off. They worked perfect before the one came apart in the drum thank you again

 

[Finnigan]

You don't need the truck running.

Agreed.

 

[Mark_88]

Thank you

I hope with a friend we can get the brakes bled if not will do like you say check everything from the MC. I think my 2x4 way each time I pump it and shove the board in by the time I get back to the bleeder the pressure has backed off. They worked perfect before the one came apart in the drum thank you again

I've bled brakes several times using a one-man bleeder kit ($10) and have had great success. With these kits you do not need to hold down the brake pedal at all. Just hook up the hose, crack the bleeder, and pump the pedal a few times...no more needed...just sit back and watch the bubbles...and top up the MC as needed.

The reservoir on them actually sits higher than the brake cylinder which totally baffled me as far as gravity and all that...but the air bubbles float upward...doh! Works great and you can do it all by yourself.

Which reminds me...I still have to get driver side hooked up and bled...