88 Ranger 302 Swap

[OlBlue]

I have a 1988 Ranger XLT 2.9, Im wanting to do a 302 swap. What Year of motor and trans would fit the best. It has a 2 inch body lift on it now.

 

[RangerSVT]

Any 302 engine will fit. Any car or explorer intake will fit. F and E series intakes will not fit. I suggest using a 96-97 explorer motor and ecu/harness for ease of wiring...


SVT

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Any 302 engine will fit.

Probably not a big issue yet but stick with the pushrod 302/5.0's.

 

[RangerSVT]

Probably not a big issue yet but stick with the pushrod 302/5.0's.

Good point. Any OHV will fit. However, the OHC 302 will also fit, but much more fabrication is needed. Then again, if you can afford $9k on a crate engine, your not worried about fitment issues

SVT

 

[OlBlue]

Thanks for the info, I don't want to spend a fortune on this build. I am looking at older 302s I want to go carbureted. Would the wiring be more difficult if I chose the route ?

 

[dangerranger83]

Take a look at my build. Did a carb 302 swap on a roller engine that i converted to HO. I used an hei dizzy to eliminate a few wires.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Good point. Any OHV will fit. However, the OHC 302 will also fit, but much more fabrication is needed. Then again, if you can afford $9k on a crate engine, your not worried about fitment issues

SVT

A mere mortal Mustang GT (not Boss) crate is only $6k, the street value of one out of a wrecked Mustang or F-150 would likely be significantly less.

 

[RangerSVT]

A crate engine is about $6800, the wiring harnes and ECU to run it is about $1900 and change. Add tax, your over $9k. I'll be looking for a wrecked 2011 5.0 in the next year or two, for my early bronco powerplant.

The wiring is not hard at all. The explorer 5.0's run off a 42 pin plug, which everything goes through. You only need about 5 wires of that plug for the motor to run. Add a couple more for oil pressure and water temp, add 3 more for OBD2 port. Splicing these wires into a couple of plugs off the original motor in your 88, and you will have a simple harness with no major wiring. Fuel lines should be plug and play, as they are long enough to reach from the trucks lines to the engine's lines. You can reuse the stock exhaust manifolds till you decide to upgrade to headers.
Going carb you will have to change out the intake manifold, rewire the fuel pump relay, install a fuel pressure regulator, as well as still wire up your oil pressure and water temp to the trucks harness. Unless you already have the intake and carb, they can be extra $$ not set aside for the build. I have done both, efi and carb to efi vehicle swaps, and I prefer staying with efi. To me, its much easier. I'd be happy to help you with the wiring if you need it...


SVT

 

[OlBlue]

Thanks everyone for all the input, @RangerSVT so where would be the best place to get a motor etc.. And what would be a ballpark price for the whole swap?

 

[RangerSVT]

If you can swing the cost up front, I strongly advise getting a donor so you will have everything you need (motor, trans, harness, ecu, cruise module[may or may not be the same design as the 94 model], throttle cable, alternator harness, power steering pressure line, radiator, and exhaust up to the trans xmember if you can get it. Otherwise, you will need to source these from a junkyard. I'm currently trying to source a 96-97 donor for Josh's (josh40601) D-ranged truck that I'm doing...


SVT

 

[bobbywalter]

josh needs a 6.0

 

[RangerSVT]

He's eventually going 4bt, for now he's doing a v8 that will eventually go into his early bronco, which he wants to keep all ford...


SVT

 

[OlBlue]

Ok I have found a 1980 mustang for cheap. But the motor is carboratered!

 

[dangerranger83]

And a non roller. It's a 255, not worth getting unless it has had a different engine put in.

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[OlBlue]

It has a 302 in it. Could I use that's transmission, I still want 4WD?