88 ranger 2.3 5 speed sputtering problem

[petter]

hey i was wondering if you would help me with a problem on my 88 ranger 2.3 5 speed when i first start it it will sputter for about 30 seconds then run fine till i shut it off again then it will sputter for a min then snap out of it if im just driving around town its fine but if i get on the highway for a bit it will start to sputter again new plugs new wires new and new coil coolant sensor and egr block off plate timming is good right at 10 btdc spout out 20 spout in

 

[Earl43P]

Try a new fuel filter.

You could also try priming the fuel system before a cold start.


Turn the key to Run, you'll hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec.
Turn key to Off, then back to Run for 2 sec, Off, Run, then crank it over.

If that helps, your fuel system pressure is bleeding down while the engine is off.
That could be a bad fuel filter, leaking fuel QD, stuck injector, bad FPR, bad fuel pump (it has a checkvalve), etc.

You could also have debris in the tank, clogging the fuel pickup sock, weak fuel pump, etc. Might be worthwhile to do a fuel pressure test.

 

[petter]

i dint think its the fuel system pressures at 40 cold its got new high and low pressure pumps anf filter and strainer i think its more electrical cause it runs fine when you first start it and after about 5 seconds it starts sputtering while its sputtering its running really ritch

 

[Mark_88]

i dint think its the fuel system pressures at 40 cold its got new high and low pressure pumps anf filter and strainer i think its more electrical cause it runs fine when you first start it and after about 5 seconds it starts sputtering while its sputtering its running really ritch

When it runs rich take it right to the bank...

OK...seriously now...does sound like a fuel drain off issue...try the key on/off test as suggested...it may not be pumps but it could be a loose connection on one of the hoses...did you change out the fuel line and return lines in the process of changing the pumps or were they done by someone else?

 

[petter]

all the lines have been replaced by me the return and the main were placed with rubber fuel hose from the rail to the tank double checked and no loose connections anywhere there was a canister filter that was broke so i put a regular fuel filter in with only 2 fittings on it for the main line the return line goes straight to the tank now

 

[petter]

cold test pressures at 40

 

[petter]

sorry for all the short post instead of putting it into one but i just thought of something if it is a fuel problem why would it snap out of it after a few seconds it has a new tank new high and low pressure pumps new strainer new lines new pressure regulator soaked the injectors in seafoam over night but like i said the old canister filter had 4 fittings on it 2 for the fuel going from the low pressure pump to the high pressure pump and 2 for the return line now i only have a filter in the main lines none on the return

 

[petter]

no one

 

[Mark_88]

sorry for all the short post instead of putting it into one but i just thought of something if it is a fuel problem why would it snap out of it after a few seconds it has a new tank new high and low pressure pumps new strainer new lines new pressure regulator soaked the injectors in seafoam over night but like i said the old canister filter had 4 fittings on it 2 for the fuel going from the low pressure pump to the high pressure pump and 2 for the return line now i only have a filter in the main lines none on the return

If the pressure is bleeding off then it will take time to build up the next time you start it so once it reaches that it will be fine...

You had filters on the return lines? OK...but it sounds a bit excessive...since you removed them it should reduce the number of connections to check...could also be a leak in the lines (hairline fracture)...but it could also be any number of other things.

I had a similar problem on my Tempo but it was only first start...was due to moisture...but yours seems to be any time of day and even while driving...

Sounds more like a hairline fracture in one of the fuel lines or hoses...maybe even a filter that is cracked or otherwise damaged...but you say you replaced all the filters...are you using the original filter clips or did you try connecting them with hose clamps?

 

[petter]

it is most definitely not the fuel system it was 40 psi at cold start right away no pressure is bleeding off it will fire up no problem but after about a min of running it starts to sputter its in not the fuel system everything in the fuel system has been replaced even the valve stem on the fuel rail the only thing i can see in the fuel system is the canister filter that i replaced with a regular filter after one of the connectors for the fuel line broke off of it thank you for all the replys but pressures perfect and is not bleeding off im pretty sure its a sensor somewhere cause if it was a fuel problem it wouldnt run fine for a min then start to sputter then snap out of it and run fine even at 4000 rpm

 

[Momboy007]

My 87 with 2.3 is doing the exact same thing, I will now hide and watch!!

Rick

 

[Mark_88]

it is most definitely not the fuel system it was 40 psi at cold start right away no pressure is bleeding off it will fire up no problem but after about a min of running it starts to sputter its in not the fuel system everything in the fuel system has been replaced even the valve stem on the fuel rail the only thing i can see in the fuel system is the canister filter that i replaced with a regular filter after one of the connectors for the fuel line broke off of it thank you for all the replys but pressures perfect and is not bleeding off im pretty sure its a sensor somewhere cause if it was a fuel problem it wouldnt run fine for a min then start to sputter then snap out of it and run fine even at 4000 rpm

You're probably right...since you've double checked everything in the fuel system...and I'm not familiar with FI systems so telling you what sensor that would be...but you do have OBD, correct? Did you pull any codes or test for them?

If it was a carbureted engine it's much simpler and no OBD...which makes it hit and miss sometimes...but no sensors to make things interesting...I'm watching now too...

 

[petter]

it is efi and fi ignition i need to pull codes i know thats the first thing you should do put i dont have a code reader and the auto parts store will only scan obd2 as soon as i get some cash im going to take it to a shop to get it scanned but they want 50 bucks im leaning towards the egr at the moment thou i got a bypass plate on it but i still have the vacuum line and the position sensor hooked up am i suspost to unhook those with a plate thanks for the reply's

 

[Mark_88]

Depends on whether or not the issue started after you blocked off the EGR or not...but pulling codes will help immensely...I didn't want to pay to have my Tempo diagnosed but it paid off big time because they caught the problem and it pointed to my MAP sensor...saved me a bundle in trial and error...swapping out parts can get really expensive when you're talking sensors...

If you didn't block off the EGR and it just started happening I'd look for something else...but testing for codes may be the cheapest route...or remove the block off plate to see if it corrects itself...the computers can get confused very easily and the symptoms are always confounding without the right information...

 

[LIMA BEAN]

I would have kept the fuel canister/reservoir. I assume you have a single fuel tank therefore a single function reservoir. If it was marked "Do not remove cup" it didnt have a filter in it, if not marked with that it did. More importantly which ever one you had they both have a TANK side check valve in them. I seem to remember this monster reared its head a few years ago and removing the canister/ reservoir was the a problem.

Didnt have much time to look but here is a couple links to ponder.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/670260

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/669646

Good luck and let us know what you find.