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88-mid 90s Chevy leaf springs


Diesel_brad

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2009
Messages
189
City
Gilbert PA
Vehicle Year
04
Transmission
Manual
Who has em and how did you go about doing it?

I heard on another thread about using them for some more weight capacity and keeping a decent ride. I haul firewood frequently but dont need a washboard ride.

I heard all that is need is to move the front spring hanger forward and use 88-mid 90s chevy 1/2 ton springs. But which ones? i found 4 and 5 leaf. Also, does it lift the truck any? I am looking for 1-2". What all needs to be done to get them to work?

I have a lead on a pair of 4 leafs for 100

Thanks, Brad
 
ton of info in the search feature.

basically, you adjust your spring and shackle hangers and actual shackle length to get desired ride height.
 
Yeah. I tried seaching "chevy springs " all i kept finding was chevy shackles and explorer springs. Not too much help
 
depending on goals 2wd ttb 150 springs provide lift and work well and outside of enlarging the hanger holes is a bolt in. slight wb alteration ime but negligible

stock ranger rear flex is pretty good....all in what you want and need though.
 
depending on goals 2wd ttb 150 springs provide lift and work well and outside of enlarging the hanger holes is a bolt in. slight wb alteration ime but negligible

stock ranger rear flex is pretty good....all in what you want and need though.

I'm sorry but you must have responded to the wrong thread.


I am inquiring about REAR springs from a 88-98 chevy in the REAR of my 04 ranger for more weight capacity with out killing the ride or lifting it to high
 
I did it, got them from a mid 90's gmc. Mine are 5 leaves (that includes the overload) and are the 3/4 ton ones. Had to move my front laef brackts forward 6inches. I also used chevy lowering shackles. In total I got around 6 inches of lift in the rear. Make sure they measure 63-64 inches eye to eye, if not, you have the wrong ones.

It doesnt add more weight capacity, your axles can only handle so much weight before breaking, all I did mine for was more lift. All you would be doing is keeping it from sagging as much from the weight in your bed.
 
I did it, got them from a mid 90's gmc. Mine are 5 leaves (that includes the overload) and are the 3/4 ton ones. Had to move my front laef brackts forward 6inches. I also used chevy lowering shackles. In total I got around 6 inches of lift in the rear. Make sure they measure 63-64 inches eye to eye, if not, you have the wrong ones.

It doesnt add more weight capacity, your axles can only handle so much weight before breaking, all I did mine for was more lift. All you would be doing is keeping it from sagging as much from the weight in your bed.

Crap! 6" really? Can i just use my ranger shackles? and not use my 2.5" factory block? The springs I bought are are approx 62" eye to eye and out of a 94 chevy 1500.

I realize the axle and tires are the limiting factor i just dont need the hitch dragging the ground w a load of firewood, like it does now
 
I'm sorry but you must have responded to the wrong thread.


I am inquiring about REAR springs from a 88-98 chevy in the REAR of my 04 ranger for more weight capacity with out killing the ride or lifting it to high


right thread.

2wd ttb 150 rear leaf springs. see if you can trade off the chevies

you can put in a smaller rear block to suit height(you have the u bolts out already and should buy new ones regardless)..hell you may even be able to eliminate the rear block potentially...but likely need a 1 in block to retain height and increase capacity and not totally kill ride. or go explorer springs...4 door tow packs.

easier then relocation of hangers.:dunno:
 
if you want to keep and use the gm units you are still in good shape.

tailor the hanger to your desires, you will have increased capacity you desire.
 
right thread.

2wd ttb 150 rear leaf springs. see if you can trade off the chevies

you can put in a smaller rear block to suit height(you have the u bolts out already and should buy new ones regardless)..hell you may even be able to eliminate the rear block potentially...but likely need a 1 in block to retain height and increase capacity and not totally kill ride. or go explorer springs...4 door tow packs.

easier then relocation of hangers.:dunno:

Ok. I follow you now.

Moving the front spring hanger is no big deal. I really want to use the chevy springs for the length to keep my ride while getting the 1/2 ton spring for a lil more weight capacity. I just want to find out what all needs to be done to go into a basicly stock height ranger. I just dont want to tear into it and be stuck looking for parts, this is my daily driver
 
if you want to keep and use the gm units you are still in good shape.

tailor the hanger to your desires, you will have increased capacity you desire.

Can i use the ranger shackles? Or do i need the chevy ones or chevy drop shackles? How much "lift" will the chevy springs give with no block and the ranger shackles?
 
Can i use the ranger shackles? Or do i need the chevy ones or chevy drop shackles? How much "lift" will the chevy springs give with no block and the ranger shackles?

thats it...use the ranger hangers and shackles and shackle hangers.

no problem there.

the problem is actual ride height. thats definitely the infinite variable here.

i dont know how beat the springs are that you have in the truck or the ones you bought are.

if you have good clamps or a welder to tack them you just play around till you get close....mind the pinion angle as well....carefully measure it first unloaded and settled...then loaded.... and then jacked up. these will be the base for setting it up later.
 
all things equal with say moving the hanger 6 in forward but in the same plane the lift is small or nill depending on what you start with...
 
thats it...use the ranger hangers and shackles and shackle hangers.

no problem there.

the problem is actual ride height. thats definitely the infinite variable here.

i dont know how beat the springs are that you have in the truck or the ones you bought are.

if you have good clamps or a welder to tack them you just play around till you get close....mind the pinion angle as well....carefully measure it first unloaded and settled...then loaded.... and then jacked up. these will be the base for setting it up later.

Its gonna be tough to have it loaded. I am going to pull the bed to make the spring swap easier. but i can guesstimate
 

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