88 Bronco 2 No spark

[RobbieD]

My bad.. still had the test light hooked up. Ok key on CEL is illuminated. While cranking it goes away.

OK, that's better. And it's acting like it should.

Weird; according to the 1988 EVTM the 2.9 doesn't have a check engine light nor a crank sensor.

What's the build date on the door sticker? Ford is bad about changing stuff within a model year.

Anyway, sounds you're back at square 1. If it were me:

1. Revisit the "no spark" symptom. I'd pull a plug and use a jumper cable to ground it to the block, and then turn the motor over and confirm without a shadow of doubt whether spark is present or not.

2. Revisit fuel delivery- key on you hear the pump run, and check for high enough pressure at the fuel regulator (preferably with a gage).

3. As the distributor's been out, I would reconfirm both rotor position AND compression stroke on #1 cylinder. You know #1 is passenger front, right? (I started out as a Chevy guy so this one has bit me in my ass, too).

4. And I would pull the passenger kick trim panel and closely look at the computer ground, which is right next to it. It wouldn't hurt, too, to open the computer and check for blown capacitors or obvious water damage.

I'm sure it's frustrating, but the answer is in there somewhere.

 

[RonD]

Ford OBD1 2-digit codes here: https://www.therangerstation.com/te...ble-code-dtc-applications-2-digit-ford-codes/

Nothing to do with spark

And you are not seeing "spark/ignition" codes, if it only has code 95
i.e. codes 15, 16, 18, 19, ect......

 

[Mhfco6]

No codes other than 95. So far I’ve confirmed the positive side of coil is hot when key is turned on. When cranking the negative side flashes and the coil is putting out spark. Build date is 10/87

 

[RonD]

No codes other than 95. So far I’ve confirmed the positive side of coil is hot when key is turned on. When cranking the negative side flashes and the coil is putting out spark. Build date is 10/87

So engine should fire and start if you manually add fuel
If not then timing is 180deg Off
Pull cap
Look at where rotor is pointed and TFI(housing)
Unbolt distributor
Lift it up and rotate rotor 180deg, lower it back down, so it opposite of where it was, and TFI is also pointed where it was before

Diagram of distributor cap: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/2_9_firingorder.gif

So if rotor was pointed at #2 it should now be pointed at #6
If it was pointed at #4 it should now be pointed at #3
ect.....opposite of where it was

 

[Mhfco6]

So engine should fire and start if you manually add fuel
If not then timing is 180deg Off
Pull cap
Look at where rotor is pointed and TFI(housing)
Unbolt distributor
Lift it up and rotate rotor 180deg, lower it back down, so it opposite of where it was, and TFI is also pointed where it was before

Diagram of distributor cap: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/2_9_firingorder.gif

So if rotor was pointed at #2 it should now be pointed at #6
If it was pointed at #4 it should now be pointed at #3
ect.....opposite of where it was

I had it putting earlier but never started. I’ve got fuel to the rail. I reset timing, set crank pulley at TDC, #1 cylinder on compression stroke, then set rotor to face #1 plug wire. Attached is a pic of dizzy orientation.

 

[RonD]

If you have compression
Spark at the right time
Fuel added manually(fuel at the rail is not fuel IN the engine)
Then any gasoline engine will start, from a lawnmower to a V12

So 1 or more of those are missing
Fuel is the easiest, spray some in, lol
Compression is next, above 140psi, just need to test 2 cylinders

Spark has two settings for TDC in a V6, #1 or #5(opposite)
So 50/50 if its right or wrong, but easy to test in both positions

 

[Mhfco6]

If you have compression
Spark at the right time
Fuel added manually(fuel at the rail is not fuel IN the engine)
Then any gasoline engine will start, from a lawnmower to a V12

So 1 or more of those are missing
Fuel is the easiest, spray some in, lol
Compression is next, above 140psi, just need to test 2 cylinders

Spark has two settings for TDC in a V6, #1 or #5(opposite)
So 50/50 if its right or wrong, but easy to test in both positions

I unbolted/lifted the distributor and rotated the rotor 180 degrees and set distributor back in place. Put everything back together and cranked it up with carb cleaner and didn’t even get a hiccup. I’ll check compression and the ECM next

 

[Mhfco6]

Fuel pressure holds at 36 and 40 when key turned on. I have confirmed spark. The compression tester I got is too big past the threads and wont go all the way down hole.
But still won’t start, got some pyroil starting fluid.

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[RonD]

That's the 3 things you need
Compression
Spark, at the right time
gasoline, or similar "fuel"

Look no further, lol

 

[Mhfco6]

That's the 3 things you need
Compression
Spark, at the right time
gasoline, or similar "fuel"

Look no further, lol

The coil seems intermittent. It sparks when I have the test light grounded to check for voltage and then it won’t other times. I’m thinking to replace the coil, maybe the rotor and cap. Still want to check compression and the computer. Not sure why it’s not firing with fuel and the spark I have.

 

[Mhfco6]

Im noticing a miss or hesitation somewhere between 1k through 3k. The timing was set at 10 BTDC with spout removed. Am I supposed to like it up with the sharp piece or the round see through hole? It’s currently lined up with the sharp piece.

 

[RonD]

Yes, the sharp point
The round hole(eye) was for a Ford timing tool

Some prefer 12deg BTDC

 

[Mhfco6]

Yes, the sharp point
The round hole(eye) was for a Ford timing tool

Some prefer 12deg BTDC

Thanks I'll play with it to see if it like 12 BTDC better. When it first starts it cuts in and out some but never dies. Then while driving it acts jumpy when it hits a weird spot in between 1k-3k then evens out anywhere above that.

 

[Mhfco6]

Thanks I'll play with it to see if it like 12 BTDC better. When it first starts it cuts in and out some but never dies. Then while driving it acts jumpy when it hits a weird spot in between 1k-3k then evens out anywhere above that.

Yea something’s up, 10 BTDC / 12 BTDC it acts the same. Any other suggestions?

EDIT: just turned the heat off and now it does not miss or hesitate, what gives?

 

[franklin2]

Yea something’s up, 10 BTDC / 12 BTDC it acts the same. Any other suggestions?

EDIT: just turned the heat off and now it does not miss or hesitate, what gives?

May be a ground issue. The main ground goes from the battery to the engine block. But the engine, the transmission, the rearend, are all mounted in rubber mounts. The cab is also mounted in rubber mounts. So they have a smaller ground wire going from the back of the engine block to the firewall. Make sure this is intact. You can add one of you can't find it or just want to experiment. More grounds never hurt anything.