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88 2.9l overheating anyone use "Blue Devil" I was told it works


88 XLT Ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Messages
357
Age
63
City
Pollock Pines Ca
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
88 2.9l overheating I am now pin pointing the issue with all your help

Please got to last 5 posts all help and info is so much appreciated
 
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I'd confirm the cause of the overflow before proceeding with any repair attempts. To check if it's really a head/gasket issue, use the "glove method": search that phrase in this forum, it's been explained a few times recently.

Another possibility is air in the cooling system; the 2.9l is tough to burp. Try parking it facing up a good hill and squeezing the upper radiator hose slowly and repeatedly as you add coolant.
 
I'd confirm the cause of the overflow before proceeding with any repair attempts. To check if it's really a head/gasket issue, use the "glove method": search that phrase in this forum, it's been explained a few times recently.

Another possibility is air in the cooling system; the 2.9l is tough to burp. Try parking it facing up a good hill and squeezing the upper radiator hose slowly and repeatedly as you add coolant.

On the glove test how do I keep it from not starting meaning no spark
 
I'd confirm the cause of the overflow before proceeding with any repair attempts. To check if it's really a head/gasket issue, use the "glove method": search that phrase in this forum, it's been explained a few times recently.

Another possibility is air in the cooling system; the 2.9l is tough to burp. Try parking it facing up a good hill and squeezing the upper radiator hose slowly and repeatedly as you add coolant.

I also noticed after filling the radiator I started it with the cap off within 4 minuts the water was coming back out of the top of the radiator is this normal?
 
On the glove test how do I keep it from not starting meaning no spark

Unplug the main wire from the ignition coil. Use RonD's instructions here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1506423&postcount=3

I also noticed after filling the radiator I started it with the cap off within 4 minuts the water was coming back out of the top of the radiator is this normal?

It may be normal once the engine gets up to temperature and the thermostat opens, depending on the amount of overflow. While doing the glove test, the engine shouldn't be running, just cranking over several times.

However, we already know there's some problem with your cooling system; we're just trying to figure out exactly what that problem is before throwing random parts and treatments at it.
 
I agree, find out for sure its the head before you keep putting fixes in the engine.

One of my past 2.9s the water jackets were stopped up. The top of the engine got hot enough to to crack the head. Lower part was cool. Temp gauge never showed hot. A good flush and cleaning of your cooling system may help
 
I agree, find out for sure its the head before you keep putting fixes in the engine.

One of my past 2.9s the water jackets were stopped up. The top of the engine got hot enough to to crack the head. Lower part was cool. Temp gauge never showed hot. A good flush and cleaning of your cooling system may help

Thanks guy's going to do the test I don't have a glove or balloon here maybe find something els that might work. I am miles from a store here in the sticks
 
Saran wrap and a rubber band?
Big Jim

I did the test using a plastic bag and a shoe string I tied it tight about the size of a balloon. I than blew back through the overflow it held air I than pushed the air out through the overflow and plugged it. I turned it over 6-7 times no pressure buildup at all. Could it be air in the cooling system? I sqweezed the upper hose a few times the coolaint level dropped a bit in the radiator. It weird it don't get hot going 11 miles just coming back up hill it overheats
 
Sounds like you don't have a head/gasket problem, which is good news.

Air in the cooling system is certainly a possibility, as is a clogged cooling system, or thermostat or water pump problems.

Try burping the system: park facing up a steep hill, and alternately top off the coolant, squeeze the upper radiator hose several times, and then run the engine for a few seconds. Repeat until the coolant level stops dropping and the sloshy noises go away when squeezing the hose.

After that, let the engine warm up and check the radiator for cool spots.

While you're in there, check that the fan clutch isn't free-spinning.
 
I'd also recommend getting a flush kit. As I stated earlier I learned the hard way. First thing I did when I bought my latest b2
 
Sounds like you don't have a head/gasket problem, which is good news.

Air in the cooling system is certainly a possibility, as is a clogged cooling system, or thermostat or water pump problems.

Try burping the system: park facing up a steep hill, and alternately top off the coolant, squeeze the upper radiator hose several times, and then run the engine for a few seconds. Repeat until the coolant level stops dropping and the sloshy noises go away when squeezing the hose.

After that, let the engine warm up and check the radiator for cool spots.

While you're in there, check that the fan clutch isn't free-spinning.

Thank you so much for your help

I did squeeeze the upper hose a few times after the cylinder pressure check and filled the radiator. I ran is on idel for 25min in my driveway no overheating temp under normal. I than drove it from my house 8 miles up the highway to town still under normal temp no overheating. I did notice both the heater hoses one is cold the other warm the heater is blowing cold air? I am thinking thermostat issues? I never changed that I did put a new Napa Radiator and water pump in like 2 months ago. The strange thing is going like 13 miles to town its fine but coming back all is up hill it overheats and lifter hitting the first steep hill and it starts ticking
 
Thanks for all the help, I am on dial up computer I can't use search and my posts and the comments you all make it takes 45-one hour for me to see them. I love this Ranger XLT its like brand new I keep it nice but its sick and with all your help I hope to figure the overheating issue I am having
 
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Problem could easily be a thermostat stuck at half way open. If you research thermostats you will find they incorporate bees wax which expands at the correct temperature and pushes the gate open.
I have had long experience with them dam things failing! About three years is as long as I think I can depend on them. However I have read the newer ones open to wide open position when they fail. I have not seen one of these yet.
The test is to put one in a pan of water and bring the water to a boil. It should be wide open at that point. But me? I just replace them from time to time.
Big Jim
 
I would think that bubbling or hissing sounds might indicate air bubbles or blockage.

Since you added block sealant before, that sealant could possibly be obstructing small passages or hoses. Or you may have other gunk in there, the engine's 27 years old, after all.

It might have been a good idea to replace the thermostat when you did the water pump; but if the engine maintains normal temperatures when driving on flat roads for decent lengths of time (over 30 mins) then your thermostat is probably opening correctly. Keep it in the back of your mind for later, but it doesn't sound like that's the current problem.

I'd proceed with a thorough coolant flush, and then work on getting all the air out of the system afterwards, and see if that solves the problem.

We never did hear if your fan clutch is working properly, either.
 

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