'87 Ranger won't Start

[PaulT]

Last month I bought a 1987 Ford Ranger in very good condition except that it has been sitting for 12 years.
Towed it home and replaced the 'brittle' Starter Soleniod and dead battery. Also replaced one of the two wall mounted relays. Fluids still reasonably good so - with bone dry gas tanks, tried to turn it over.
Cranked smoothly but after several seconds I realized that it wouldn't stop cranking...... removed the key - still cranking.....disconnected the battery.
Tested the new solenoid and it was good.

Any suggestions ?

PTW

 

[Earl43P]

Welcome to The Ranger Station!

Click on those two links below for an electrical diagram of the Starter system.
If I had to guess, I'd point toward the Ignition Switch. A lot of times they split open and all it needs is clamped back together to work again. Don't take any linkage to the switch apart.

R/LB wire (Red with a Light Blue stripe)

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to88_2_3.JPG

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

 

[Hunter71601]

in 1987 ford was using similar designed parts in most of its vehicles, especially the pickups , 8 years ago i has a 87' f350 w a 460 eng, it did same thing. i ruled it to be a bad ignition switch, so i wired a push button start, ford had issues with the ignition switches. i was just lazy and didnt want to go to a pick and pull.

 

[RonD]

What engine do you have in your '87?

Fender mounted starter relay/solenoid has two large posts and one or two smaller posts.

One of the larger posts is the Battery/alternator/power hook up, it will have several wires hooked to it, including battery+ cable, alternator B+ wire, and several Fusible links that power the electrics in the vehicle.

The other large post will have 1 cable, it goes to starter motor, no other wires can be attached here, very important.
Miswiring on this post will cause what you describe.

If there is one smaller post it will be labelled "S", a wire from the ignition switch is attached here.
When this wire has 12volts the Relay closes and sends Battery power to starter motor to crank engine.
This wire will only have 12v when key is in START position(turned clockwise all the way), test this several times with wire unhooked from relay but hooked to test light or volt meter, that will tell you if ignition switch is good or bad.
When that 12v is cut Relay opens and battery voltage to starter motor is cut.

If there is a 2nd smaller post it will be labeled "I", this was used in the past to give Coil more voltage when cranking engine, electronic ignitions usually don't use this connection, the "I" post is usually not found on newer Starter relays.

People have upgraded to starter motors that have the Starter Relay/solenoid on the starter motor instead of on the fender, these require different wiring for the fender mounted relay which is still used as the power distribution point.
These have the battery+ cable running directly to the starter motor, and the smaller "S" wire runs to starter motors "S" post.
Miswiring of this upgrade will cause what you describe.