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87 Ranger 2.9 stroker (210 ci/3.5 L)


Sorry about the lack of updates, been super busy between work, school and the lady. The wet sleeves have all been bored to 3.685", leaving just enough material to hone the walls after the cylinders are pressed into the block. Need to turn down the outside diameters to final adjusted specs, but that shouldn't take more than a couple days of class. Was able to let my instructor give me free reign of the shop for my last semester, so should really be able to crank on the truck a lot more now.

Have also created copper gaskets .021" thick to go between the block and spacers to seal coolant/oil passages as the head gasket will be on the wrong side of the spacer and didn't feel like mangling a second set of gaskets by cutting out the fire ring. Plus it should increase thermal transfer away from the spacers and heads. The second picture shows more clearly what I mean.

Tomorrow morning the heads get resurfaced. :D The aluminum plate attached to them allows me to flip the head and easily clamp it to the mill table. (PS, stupid simple to make, just a piece of 1/2" thick 6061 bolted along the valve cover rail and another bolted to the rocker shaft holes)

An finally the spacer. Had the local steel distributor laser cut some 3/4" HRS plate to rough dimensions and make starter bores on 4.760" centers. The milling is going to take a long time, but it's finally getting to the point where I get to shop around for a good block machinist.
 

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One done, one to go. Drilled out four rusted snapped bolts in the manifold flanges, to be retapped Monday. Ended up flat to .0004" across the entire head, ports square to the gasket surface. :yahoo:
 

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Question about cam

After trying to figure out the best way to make up the increase in deck height in respect to the valvetrain, any opinions on if I would be better served trying to increase the lifter length (4.0 or BBC roller lifters) or lengthening the pushrods? Should I try to keep their height ratio (lifter L/ pushrod L) similar to stock? Just curious how the valvetrain geometry would change, breaking stuff possibly. Anyone have a loose 4.0 lifter they could grab a length measurement from?

As far as cams, torn between stock 2.9 and having the journals on a 4.0 ground down to fit the slightly smaller bearings of the 2.9. Reasoning is the increase in lift without significantly increased duration may allow better breathing without dangling intake valves in front of the pistons like shark bait.
 
Sorry i cant help with your valvetrain questions but keep up the good work. Im stoked to see this thing run.

Sent from my LGL16C using Tapatalk
 
I like this it's cool and have you tried just calling up a engine builder shop and picking there brain a bit??
 
I say increase the over all size of the lobe to whatever your deck height was increased to. Only thing is keeping the oil holes on the lifter lined up with the holes on the block to have oil get into the lifter.
 
Progress

Here is an update. One spacer is ~70% finished. So almost done with one bank of the engine. Been taking a lot of photos and notes, so the other side should go relatively quickly.
 
Pictures

The first picture is the gasket sandwich, second is two of the sleeves in place (the far sleeve needs a counterbore depth adjustment). Third picture is the new deck height. Remember, the piston was initially.638" above the deck. Fourth picture is the spacer on the locator collars around the head bolts. I know it's upside down, need to first open up the slot for the intake manifold stud.
 

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First picture is the spacer on the block. All of the area inside the counterbores will be a solid sleeve, increasing the wall thickness to .255", which should be enough to handle a low psi turbo system. The spacer with three sleeves installed weighs roughly 18 pounds, so the block will also be getting a bit more mass. The second picture shows piston extension without modification.
 

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Glad to be seeing updates.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
Head studs

Head studs measure M12x1.75 x 125mm. Should I make an article with all the bolt sizes and block internal dimensions for the reference page?
 

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Closer to a longblock every day. :D
 

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Just curious: When taking so long to design and build an engine like you're doing (not a knock, I know why it's taking the time it is), when you assemble the engine, do you have to use some type of special assembly lube or grease? Expanding on that, if assembly lube is more liquid, on a longer build like this, does it make sense to switch over to a moly grease or something like that instead so it stays put?
 

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