87 ford ranger exhaust manifold and code help

[Fordmikeyranger87]

Hey there, looking to see if anyone can help diagnose a headache of a problem I’m having with my 87 ford ranger 2.9 v6 ( according to original owner it only has 109k miles) Long story short - distributor went out last month which I have gone and replaced as well as a handful of other parts for a tune up. ( yes dizzy is back in correct position and timing has been set) with that being said after I got the truck running again my exhaust manifold was getting super hot within a few minutes of idling. I went ahead to check fuel injectors and cylinder 4 had a cracked end (end that goes int fuel rail) so I went and replaced all fuel injectors and while I was at it changed o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor and air intake sensor.

after all that, first start up it was running very rough, engine shakes and could smell some gas out of tail pipe. I pulled codes and below is what I got

Key on engine off
11

key off engine on
12, 21, 22, 24, 32 and 41
but the most concerning thing I need help with right now is when the engine was running to check codes I started to hear a slight drip sound after 5 min and noticed there was dark liquid leaking from where exhaust manifold connects to exhaust pipe, has a gas smell and I’m assuming the darkness is oil.

any help, knowledge and suggestions on codes and exhaust manifold leak would be greatly appreciated. Some photos attached

 

[franklin2]

Where did you get the fuel injectors? Sounds like they are giving you a problem.

Just keep track of what the engine is doing before and after every repair job. If you have additional new problems after you do work, then it's safe to say it's something you did or bad parts.

 

[Briansshop]

I agree with above ^, I'd start with going back to the original injectors. The manifolds getting hot would point to a timing issue. Did it run fine with just the new distributor installed?

 

[SenorNoob]

12​	Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) – ISC

21​	Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range – ECT
22 ​	MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range – MAP
24 ​	Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range – IAT VAT

32​	EVP – (R) EGR not responding properly during test – EVP
​	EVR – (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low – EVR
​	PFE – (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently – PFE

41​	(R) System lean – Fuel control
​	(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) – Fuel control

^For easier reference for anyone reading this.

I really don't know what to suggest here there is so much going on.

 

[franklin2]

If you look at the schematic, many times you will find a group of sensors on the engine are fed by a common 5 volt supply wire and ground. If you have multiple sensor errors, it could be a sign that none of them are getting the correct power supply.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I was going to suggest you have a lean condition causing the hot running. Code 41 supports this.
As Franklin suggests, could be a wiring issue. Perhaps a pinched wire.​

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

Where did you get the fuel injectors? Sounds like they are giving you a problem.

Just keep track of what the engine is doing before and after every repair job. If you have additional new problems after you do work, then it's safe to say it's something you did or bad parts.

I got a set of refurbished Bosch off of eBay

Where did you get the fuel injectors? Sounds like they are giving you a problem.

Just keep track of what the engine is doing before and after every repair job. If you have additional new problems after you do work, then it's safe to say it's something you did or bad parts.

Thanks, I purchased a set of rebuilt Bosch injectors from eBay, Thankfully I have a warranty on them. Is there a good test to see if they are actually bad or working properly before I go back to putting old ones in?

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

I agree with above ^, I'd start with going back to the original injectors. The manifolds getting hot would point to a timing issue. Did it run fine with just the new distributor installed?

It was running a lil rough after dizzy was replaced until I set the the timing and everything seemed to be good until I noticed the intake manifold was way hot. Never got to glowing red hot. With spout out timing was set to 10 deg as specified on truck so I’m a lil stumped to think the timing would be off.

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

If you look at the schematic, many times you will find a group of sensors on the engine are fed by a common 5 volt supply wire and ground. If you have multiple sensor errors, it could be a sign that none of them are getting the correct power supply.

I was going to suggest you have a lean condition causing the hot running. Code 41 supports this.
As Franklin suggests, could be a wiring issue. Perhaps a pinched wire.​

Thanks,

 

[I support common sense]

I got a set of refurbished Bosch off of eBay


Thanks, I purchased a set of rebuilt Bosch injectors from eBay, Thankfully I have a warranty on them. Is there a good test to see if they are actually bad or working properly before I go back to putting old ones in?

Yes. If the old ones work better than the new ones then you know that they were bad just like @Briansshop said. There is no way I know of to test a fuel injector without running it in an engine.

 

[gaz]

@Fordmikeyranger87
Which manifold is getting hot; first you mention the exhaust, then the intake?

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

@Fordmikeyranger87
Which manifold is getting hot; first you mention the exhaust, then the intake?

dang sorry for confusion, it’s the exhaust manifolds that were getting hot

 

[Briansshop]

It was running a lil rough after dizzy was replaced until I set the the timing and everything seemed to be good until I noticed the intake manifold was way hot. Never got to glowing red hot. With spout out timing was set to 10 deg as specified on truck so I’m a lil stumped to think the timing would be off.

This is with new injectors and distributor,running good but the exhaust manifold is getting hot? Did you drive it? Both or one manifolds getting hot? How are you measuring manifold temp?

 

[franklin2]

Exhaust manifolds do get very hot normally.