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87 F150 Won’t Start


I think you would be fine as long as you stay with the same engine/trans.
I think so to, I want to pull the trigger on a used $60 eBay one but you all have made it clear about the common failures.
 
I think so to, I want to pull the trigger on a used $60 eBay one but you all have made it clear about the common failures.

i wouldnt try it
 
Side note, my driver floorboard is soaked. I fought water coming from the rear of my ranger from the rear window. Never did find a solution. I ended up cutting the floorboard out and welding in a LMC pan. Do these trucks have a weak spot in the rear also, or check for rusted out cowl?
 
Side note, my driver floorboard is soaked. I fought water coming from the rear of my ranger from the rear window. Never did find a solution. I ended up cutting the floorboard out and welding in a LMC pan. Do these trucks have a weak spot in the rear also, or check for rusted out cowl?
Ive never seen an F series with a rusted cowl...but its definatly not out of the relm of possibilty. Those years usually just eat floorpans...but 80+ was better for not cab rusting then earlier trucks.
 
Ive never seen an F series with a rusted cowl...but its definatly not out of the relm of possibilty. Those years usually just eat floorpans...but 80+ was better for not cab rusting then earlier trucks.
Its not wet on the rubber up top, just soaked underneath where the insulation is. Cant see where its coming from, reminded me of the Rangers leak.
 
Its not wet on the rubber up top, just soaked underneath where the insulation is. Cant see where its coming from, reminded me of the Rangers leak.
Anythings possible. Id crawl underneath it.
 
Anythings possible. Id crawl underneath it.
New ECM installed, truck started right up, now just have to set the timing 100%. How many vacuum lines are there, I’ve checked 7 of them so far. Thanks to everyone on this forum who've helped me along this far!
 
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New ECM installed, truck started right up, now just have to set the timing 100%. How many vacuum lines are there, I’ve checked 7 of them so far. Thanks to everyone on this forum who've helped me along this far!
Man i dont know. Its been a long time since ive had an EFI 300. Is the vacuum diagram sticker still under the hood?
 
Man i dont know. Its been a long time since ive had an EFI 300. Is the vacuum diagram sticker still under the hood?
I found a couple good diagrams online, some color coordinated. Now just gotta try to translate all the abbreviated items.
 
Some of the terms seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-engine-vacuum-hose-diagrams/

There is a cold start/warm air valve that uses vacuum to pull open a valve on the Cold Air intake tube, so air is then sucked in from around exhaust manifold
This setup is usually the first to go missing after ANY engine work, lol

Can use any of these
A/CL DV Air Cleaner Diverter Valve
A/CL BI MET Air Cleaner Bi-Metallic Valve
A/CL CWM Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator

Its not needed but helps engine warm up faster, its just 1 vacuum line from intake usually to air cleaner valve


The EVAP system(carbon can) back in the 1980s EFI used a vacuum port on the throttle body in front of throttle plate(ported vacuum), so have no solenoids or pressure sensors
 
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Some of the terms seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-engine-vacuum-hose-diagrams/

There is a cold start/warm air valve that uses vacuum to pull open a valve on the Cold Air intake tube, so air is then sucked in from around exhaust manifold
This setup is usually the first to go missing after ANY engine work, lol

Can use any of these
A/CL DV Air Cleaner Diverter Valve
A/CL BI MET Air Cleaner Bi-Metallic Valve
A/CL CWM Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator

Its not needed but helps engine warm up faster, its just 1 vacuum line from intake usually to air cleaner valve


The EVAP system(carbon can) back in the 1980s EFI used a vacuum port on the throttle body in front of throttle plate(ported vacuum), so have no solenoids or pressure sensors
Wow, very helpful. Hope to get some rubber hose and replace all lines this weekend. I found this too for future reference.

The truck does get very warm, the fan by the reservoir ran for a while after truck was shut off.
 

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Working on the lines this morning, Ron, is this the warm air line your referring to? I found 2 lines off the carbon can completely missing. One was the line to the tanks, which i fixed the other is confusing. One map shows going to a purge solenoid valve and a purge flow sensor. Just looked at my diagram and it shows going to a looped tee just above the throttle body. I found the old lines for the tee on throttle body and connected it to CCAN.
 

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No not the pre-heated air part

EVAP system
CCAN is carbon canister it has one hose to gas tank and one hose to pressure sensor
Pressure sensor connects to purge valve(solenoid)
Purge valve connects to throttle body port
IIRC

There can also be a thermisistor(temp activated valve, TVV) between throttle body and purge valve

Been a LONG TIME since I worked on these older systems
 
Any idea what the black plug is supposed to be on the back of the new ECM? Mine just has tape over it. Could this be why it’s running rough?
After vacuum line replacement I started the truck and pulled the spout to set timing, the truck idled down but then I realized the fuel pressure gauge was at 80. The truck was about to die anyway so I shut it off.
 

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No not the pre-heated air part

EVAP system
CCAN is carbon canister it has one hose to gas tank and one hose to pressure sensor
Pressure sensor connects to purge valve(solenoid)
Purge valve connects to throttle body port
IIRC

There can also be a thermisistor(temp activated valve, TVV) between throttle body and purge valve

Been a LONG TIME since I worked on these older systems
I don’t see a purge valve anywhere on my vacuum diagram, nor do I see one on the truck. If this is the case, CAN is hooked up to the throttle body, but I am missing the inline pressure sensor and purge valve.
 

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