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87 2.3lt into 2.3l 4x4 Ranger


Haywire6000

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Apr 6, 2013
Messages
424
City
Winthrop Maine
Vehicle Year
1993
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
2" Shackle Drop
What clutch would I need? Can I just get a stock style clutch for my 1993? I would obviously get a stage to to be safe.
 
I've been out for a while, replaced my computer about a month ago and forgot my password...

Anywho, a stock clutch will last a while, but till wear prematurely. What I did a few years ago which has worked well was get a centerforce stock replacement friction disc and their pressure plate with the weights, it is a great combination and has held up to a LOT of abuse... It was about $350 if I remember right though, I don't think they make a kit for this application so I had to buy the two individual parts.
 
I don't know why I didn't ask this on my other post. lol. I was probable just going to get a stage 2 replacement for the Ranger. I have yet to price this out ( maybe I will do that now)
 
I've heard the puck type clutches are really sensitive, with the setup I have I have good control for engagement, and when it engages it doesn't slip...
 
I had a 6 puck in my 4x4 (RIP :/ ) and it absolutely sucked in low range. Instant grab, basically impossible to feather the clutch. In high range it was perfectly fine. If I was to do it again I'd go with a full face disc.
 
With the puck style clutch I have 4x4 low is literally clutch on or off.... No soft launches....
 
Turbo91, when you did you swap did you use the tbird engine wiring harness? Also if you did how much of a pain was it to repin?
 
I used the '92 ranger harness, kept the DIS ignition, repurposed the egr wires for the BAP sensor, resulted in me only needing to add one wire from the VAM to the BAP for the 5v reference I believe & one one from the ecu to a ground for octane setting control. Was a really easy swap and was done in like 30 minutes haha.
 
I assume using the TBird ECU? I planned on using the T-Bird wiring harness and the PCM hoping that would be the best solution, I plan on keeping the distributor for know.
 
Just keep the DIS, stronger spark, and use the ranger harness, it'll pretty much directly fit, you only have to move about 10 wires at the ECM for the turbo ECM... it's by far the cleanest looking setup... I mean, you could use the T bird harness but all the wires are already there... if you find a connector that doesn't match up, use the component off the Ranger engine... except the airflow sensor, you need the T bird one...

Keeping the DIS is as simple as removing the front seal housing from the Ranger engine, making a template off the Ranger engine for the holes to mount the crank sensor bracket, drilling the holes to tap for 6mm bolts, cut the head off of a 6mm bolt to use as a pin for the alignment pin then Loctite it in place. It's pretty easy, and the engine compartment is cleaner without a distributor...
 
Hmmm, the thing is that my factory harness had been cut and spliced and everything else from previous owners. I think for now at least I will keep the coil/ distributor setup. Also or a side note I should be getting my engine some time this week. I forgot I have a buddy who works at fastenall who is getting it shipped from NY to ME for me for $50 and a six pack :)
 

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