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87 2.3 sounds


Dmil87

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
9
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Automatic
hey guys i have a 1987 2.3 L N/A FI engine

it smokes alittle when i start it,

it makes a rattling noise beginning at about 1500 RPM... that i beleive is the oil pump shaft but i'm not sure

it idles rough

some days it bogs down, then surges

it started making a whining noise, almost like the PS pump or alt. but i'm not sure about that either

please help me out, this is really irritating me, i'm trying to get my beast painted and this is distracting me:icon_confused:
 
Check Your IAC And make sure it is clean that's the first thing I would Check for your Surging Problem.

The Second thing I would Check is your Coolant temp sensor, Make sure your temp guage on your dash is opperating within specs that you know the truck runs in. In other words if your truck reads between the "R" and the "M" In "NORM" on the guage and now it reads just at the beginning Line in the guage then you know it's probably the Coolant temp sensor. If the coolant temp sensor is bad then it will make your truck run rich all the time resulting in poor idle control when the vehicle is cold, stalling, and rough idle as well as poor fuel economy.


As for your rattle are you sure it's not a heat shield or something ? does it only do it when the truck is in motion ? Please Provide some more specifics.

Thanks.
 
i checked all of my heat sheilds, they're ok, we used a stethescope and found it to be the loudest at the front of the oil pan, below the main cap and we checked the accersories by running the engine without the belt and it was still rattling... it does it in every gear including park

second, where is the coolant sensor located?
 
The Coolant sensor is located between the injectors and fuel rail, in the middle of the intake manifold and the valve cover. it has 2 wires going into it.

Your oil pump may need to be replaced OR maybe its your timing belt tensioner making the racket..... ?
 
how would i fix the tensioner?
 
the tensioner is half way up the block, if it is loudest at the bottom it probably isn't the problem, but if it is it's only like $30. at the front of the block at the bottom the only things there are the oil pump and main bearings.
 
wouldn't the engine make a noise throughout the whole rpm range if it was the oil pump or main bearings?
 
wouldn't the engine make a noise throughout the whole rpm range if it was the oil pump or main bearings?

oil pump yes, bearings, not all the time.

i had an old 64 fairlane with a 289 in it, and it would only make noise, if you rev'd the engine, and push the clutch in to shift, it would do that bvecause the bearings were "floating' with no load on them.

it could be that his bearings just make noise at that rpm.
 
where would your coolant temp sesor be on a carburated 83 ranger? My gauge has just always been as low as it can and never seems to move?
 
Has anyone ever replaced the bearings? how hard is it? how long would it take? and can it be done without pulling the engine?

what about the oil pump?
 
how often do main bearings fail on a ranger with 155,000 miles?
 
bearings

how often do main bearings fail on a ranger with 155,000 miles?

My engine has over 250,000 miles on it with the original bearings. They usually last a long time unless you start and stop your engine a lot with out letting it get to operating temp.:sad:

If you can get the oil pan off, then yes you can change the bearings without pulling the engine.:icon_welder:

With the pan off the oil pump is real easy to, check your oil pressure, that should tell you if the pump is bad.:icon_thumby:
 
How long, expensive, and difficult are they to change? (oil pump, main bearings?) and what are the chances that the bearings are the problem?
 
bearings

The bearings aren't hard to change, but you probably want to find someone with a little experience to help you. Before tearing in double check everything.:headbang:

You can check the bearings when you change the oil pump.:yahoo:
 
You can't pull the oil pan with engine in the truck, the engine has to come out. With 155,000 on it get a reman engine from a reputable rebuilder and swap it out. I think the # 1 rod bearing is going away in your engine.
 

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