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86' Ranger- squealing noises(from tires or drums) while driving around..


bozo4ford

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2010
Messages
72
City
Anaheim
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
I have a 1986 Ford Ranger 2.3, 5-speed, 2 wheel drive. I had new tires and brakes installed about three years ago.

Most recently, while driving around town, I’ve noticed a squealing, squeaking kind of noise that continues until I stop the truck.

My brakes seem to be fine, and stop me when I need to. I don’t do much driving these past three years, so the last thing I would suspect would be worn brake pads.

Question: Do wheel cylinders or rotors make these continuous squeaking noises? I would like to be prepared with a little bit of knowledge before I get any bad news. I don’t know if this is something I could wait on, or if this problem will manifest itself with a BIGGER, MORE DANGEROUS problem on the road.

After I hear from a few possible ideas on what this could be, I will take the truck back to the place I purchased the tires and have them look at the drums, while they rotate the tires. Thanks! :icon_bounceblue:
 
There is a metal wear indicator that causes a squealing when the pads wear down enough. A small rock can get stuck in the braking system but it's usually an ear piercing nails on blackboard screeching. Some quick stops in reverse will usually dislodge the rock. Another possibility is u-joints. Block the wheels, trans in neutral, try turning the drive shaft and look for movement between the 'ears' at the ends of the drive shaft-there should be NONE.

Richard
 
Does the noise change when you apply the brakes? If not, probably not the brakes. It could be some dry wheelbearings if they were improperly packed last time also.
 
I would check the anti rattle clips on disc brakes(if both weren't put on and just one this could be it), depending on rims i would check if they are chipping(happened to friend not to long ago rim alloy was flaking causing loud sound), and driveshaft joints around bearings, and also the exhaust shields there should be two(sometimes welds brake causing loud rattling noises).
Good luck
 
Rubbing, not squwling noises while driving,not braking

Hi Y'all,
Thanks for your replies.
This is a 1986 Ranger with drums,no discs or ABS onboard.

I did call the place I had my brakes done about 6 years ago,and he told me there were no sensors in my rear rotors, and the sound could be the rear brake shoes/pads.

...But after driving around last night, I want to change my symptoms from squealing noises to a rubbing kind of noise. When I slow down or speed up, the corresponding noises seems to go faster or slower with my speed of the tires,if that makes sense. It's kind of like but not too extreme, but remember as a kid, using clothes pins and playing cards and putting them on your bicycle spokes to emulate a Motorcycle? What... NO? OK, well anyway I did (to be cool on my block) well this noise speeds up or slows down with the speed of the truck.

So it seems to be more of a rubbing,and not grinding or squealing noise. I still want to get my tires rotated, so I'll have the guy drive it in the lot and see what he thinks.

And since it's been about 6 years since my last brake job, maybe I'm hearing the pads or shoes,but wouldn't i just hear that when I apply the brakes, which still work pretty darn good,except my emergency brake,which is hard to engage and disengage, and I feel like it's going to snap.
Happy new year! :icon_cheers:
 
If you don't drive much it could be many things with the brakes NOT wearing. The contact surfaces of the drums and rotors are highly machined surfaces, and so rust quickly. You may just have a rust lip built up on the drums that is rubbing something.
 
I'm just a back-yard self taught mechanic but it sounds like you diagnosed your own problem.... I'd check the e-brake cables. It sounds like they might be seized and not releasing your brakes properly. You should occasionally use them to halp prevent them from seizing. Check them by removing the drum and get someone to press on the e-brake in the cab. You should see the spring wrapped cable end at the backing plate move in and out freely, I'm guessing at least 1/2". If your brake shoes have less than 1/8" you might as well replace the shoes at the same time.
You can do the job yourself if your somewhat mechanically inclined, just buy a book and follow the instructions. There are some tools that make it easier but you can get by with just locking pliers and a screw driver.

Multi brake tool, in this pic I'm removing the springs, use the other long end to re-install [I've never figured out what the pointy ends are for];
worktruck076-1.jpg

The three tools I used to do my brakes;
worktruck078-1.jpg

There is a proper tool to release the 'hold down springs' [my term] but I couldn't find it. I've also used vice grips to release and re-install the springs shown in the first pic;
worktruck079-1.jpg

The white stuff on the end of the axles is never-seize, it helps to release the rims after they have been on for a while. I'm re-using these shoes and the drums as they are better than the ones on the axle I'm swapping in.
I don't have pics of removing the e-brake cables but use a screwdriver to push in the three prongs that hold them from popping out. You'll see what I mean when you look at them.
Good luck, however you fix them.

Richard

edit- adsmo8 has a good point as well
 

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