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86 gen 1 sas build


My tow pig!

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This summer all shined up.
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This project is done for now. Its too expensive!
 
she looks sweet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.. *insert something clever here*
 
Fubar!

I've been trying to do this thing on a slim budget and its a pain in the ass to find parts for this swap. I got a late 70's f-250 d-44 and ive been trying to decide between doing leafs or coils. i plan on keeping the axle full width. if i do leafs i still want it to have good flex but everybody says to do coils, its better. If I do coils does anybody have any advice on what coils to use, where to get them, pics of the mounting process. I want to run 35's or bigger. Any suggestions would help alot!:icon_confused:
 
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to add on from the previous post.....
pics would be awesome or send me to a build thread.
 
look at dirty white boy build. i'll post the link in a min, its done w/ leafs.. leafs are cheap and can be very effective. think about it, most toyota crawlers are done w/ leafs. YJ's can be great offroad and they are leafs. most newer rangers are done w/ leafs when sas'ed (the torsion bar non coiled ones). with the right leafs, like trail gear yota's or yj lift leafs.. you can get good flex.



coils are better if a daily driven rig IMO. to do coils, ideally you'd use extended radius arms and some good flexy coils, like xj coils. but this route is very expensive compared to leafs. think something like a rusty's long arm kit on a wrangler.. coils are newer tech stuff, and will probably net more flex.. but you get what you pay for. look into early bronco coils for this. deaver's or skyjacker or whatever. this can be done cheaply if you find deals and do the fab work like radius arms yourself.. also depends on what your axle is already set up for to.. its easier to use coils on an axle set up for coils. less work. lol.

what are you overall plans? strictly trial use? do leafs for the cheap/easy/effective way out. you want a good smooth ride for daily use/ weekend trail awesome-ness? do long arms and coils.
 
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I don't want to rush the build and have to replace the stuff I went cheep on. I want it to be road worthy and have trail awesome-ness. Also my axle is striped clean and can go in any direction. I'm a fabricator/welder and can fab a lot of my own parts. I was just over thinking and running myself into corners.
Thanks 4.0b2 for the heading me in the direction, ill check them out.
The 2.9 is coming apart slowly but is ridiculously clean. I'm really happy with the shape its in. I should be able to get into the garage tomorrow before the wife puts me to work on something else.
Ill update with some pics tomorrow night.
 
don't take what i wrote as leafs can't be street driven either... kroussinoffroad says that the dirty white boy b2 rides good on road..

talk to kroussin about both setups since he has done both.
he was impressed by the leafs enough that he considered doing leafs on his mazda when going to fullwidth's.. even tho he had coils/long arms on it.... so i think he's the guy you need to talk to.
 
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im really happy with my coils up front, they are eb coils, 5.5 over and are progressive rate , i bought mine for $50 off of craigslist... and then did a simple 3 link setup but wasnt super budget friendly, used ballistic joints and DOM...

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heres how i did my top part, not good pics and truck dirty in one but hope youll it helps..

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bu ive also gone other routes such as this which cost me only 25 bucks in parts, used some old jeep springs and just fabed everything.

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i have seen great success with both options...:icon_cheers:
 
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ok... btw nice rig RUTH! ive now decided to go with your approach, looked up most of the parts for the front and its alot cheaper than i thaught. (everything but the dom tubing) but it seems to flex like hell and i can fab up pretty much all the big ticket items. i get paid friday and im ordering my springs, joints, and some more grinding discs! i cant wait to get started!
Thanks everybody for all the help! ill post pics tonight.:icon_thumby:
 
What tool!

ok i thaught id have the heads off and the pistons out, cylinders honed/cross hatched, and have an idea of what piston rings to buy but i hit a snag...... again. i tried to ge the head studs out and a t50 bit is to small and a t55 bit is way to big. i also tried to use a allen key and it just strips out the stud.
what do i use??????? i looked in the HAYNES manual and it doesnt say anything about the tools needed. im stuck! help please!:icon_confused:
 
idk. that's strange. it should be a t55... idk on this one.
i know they are to tight to use the t50... it'll just strip the bit.


talk weld the t50 to the bolts... cut it loose, repeat? lol. then replace the head bolts. that's an extreme case lol. might be easier if the rocker arms were out of the way..

maybe you need to find the rare t52 bit???
http://www.zhida-hardware.com/Files/Product295.htm
 
i have to buy new head studs anyway..... if ford cant give me a tool, thats one hell of an idea. i wouldnt have thaught about that.
once again 4.0B2 to the rescue.... thanks bud!
 

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